Wiring for a simple PID control panel.

[KyleWolf]

Hey everyone.

So I am designing a simple control panel to modify my current system. The system is a typical 3 burner 1 pump system.

The two electric components of the system are going to be 1) the pump and 2) a 120V heating element.

The heating element is going to be for an in-line temp maintenance system.
Basically, direct fire my keggle-mash tun to get water to mash-temp, dough-in, and use the low power element and the pump to maintain mash temp. Brewhardware sells a body kitfor this exact thing.

Since it is only a 120V element, I figured I didn't need anything too special. Basically, the temp probe/PID will turn the element on or off and the pump will be run off a basic "on/off" switch.

Just wanted to see if there was anything I was missing in the wiring diagram for the control panel. Thanks in advance!

PS. I know the wires in the barrier strips are all in wonky positions, that is really more because it was easier to draw that way.
PSS...so didn't notice that the "RTD sensor" text somehow magically moved. The circle with 3 wires running to the PID is the RTD sensor.

[/url][/IMG]

 

[snoman6115]

A nice thing I found was to interlock the power going to the element with power to the pump using a dpst switch. No pump running, no power to element so you can't burn it out by having the pump off. Either run power out from ssr to element through the dpst or the signal wire from the pid to ssr, which is how I ran it. I feel it will help reduce ware on the ssr if it's not getting the signal to turn on and off repeatedly when it's not needed to.

View attachment 1503310434117.jpg

 

[KyleWolf]

Thanks snoman! I like the idea. What I think I might do just to avoid changing too much, is to add an addition SPST switch between the PID and SSR. It should allow me to accomplish the same thing (albiet with an extra switch throw) and won't really change my current wiring at all.

I appreciate it! I'll post a pic once I have it all together.

 

[doug293cz]

Hey everyone.

So I am designing a simple control panel to modify my current system. The system is a typical 3 burner 1 pump system.

The two electric components of the system are going to be 1) the pump and 2) a 120V heating element.

The heating element is going to be for an in-line temp maintenance system.
Basically, direct fire my keggle-mash tun to get water to mash-temp, dough-in, and use the low power element and the pump to maintain mash temp. Brewhardware sells a body kitfor this exact thing.

Since it is only a 120V element, I figured I didn't need anything too special. Basically, the temp probe/PID will turn the element on or off and the pump will be run off a basic "on/off" switch.

Just wanted to see if there was anything I was missing in the wiring diagram for the control panel. Thanks in advance!

PS. I know the wires in the barrier strips are all in wonky positions, that is really more because it was easier to draw that way.
PSS...so didn't notice that the "RTD sensor" text somehow magically moved. The circle with 3 wires running to the PID is the RTD sensor.

[/url][/IMG]

Not sure what PID you are planning to use, so can't check the terminal wiring vs. your diagram, but at a minimum the control signal to the SSR is wired incorrectly.

Here is a diagram for a 120V RIMS controller with pump interlock to prevent the element from being turned on unless the pump is turned on. It uses the Auber EZBoil DSPR120. The EZBoil controllers use a different control algorithm than PID's, and reports from users indicate that the control response is much better than with a PID. I only recommend EZBoil controllers.



You can leave out the two 1A fuses if you use 16AWG wire wherever the thinnest black and white wires are shown.

Brew on

 

[KyleWolf]

Thanks Doug293cz.

Judging by your diagram vs my own, I am guess the problem with the SSR wiring you mentioned is that the neutral wire has to run from the PID and not directly from the jumper correct?

As far as the PID, the actualy numbers have probably changed as the PID model I purchased is most likely different than the one I modeled this after, so don't worry too much about that, I know the numbers will differ but the general idea will remain the same.

I understand the desire for the interlock, but I am not too concerned about it. This RIMS system only makes contact with a very small volume of wort at any time so I am not too worried about interlocking.

But besides changing how the neutral wire connects to the SSR, are there any other issues you see?

 

[doug293cz]

There is no neutral wire involved with the SSR control signaling (the + & - terminals of the SSR.) The SSR control signals are low voltage DC. You need to connect the +SSR control signal from the PID to the +terminal of the SSR, and likewise the -SSR control signal from the PID to the -terminal on the SSR.

Only other thing to watch out for is that your main power switch should be rated at 20A @ 120V or higher.

Remember that this needs to plug into a GFCI protected outlet. This is very important for user safety. Circuit breakers protect wiring, but do not protect humans from electrocution.

Brew on

 

[KyleWolf]

Thanks Doug.

You're right, I don't know why I said neutral wire, I know better.

 

[MGerald]

I agree with you Doug.