Wiring a Kedu HY56 power switch

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sablesurfer

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Ok, so I randomly bought this switch when getting other things because it looked neat. LOL. It turned out to be pretty damn big. Anyway, it is the replacement to the mushroom emergency off because that thing just frikken fell apart on me in my test set up.

It looks kinda like this, but mine has start and stop labeled on the buttons:
c7f048db00544d92b059d87cda35e1e5.jpg


Here is the only wiring info I can find based on many clicks through the interwebz:
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/h8243_m.pdf

I am only running 110/120v so I figure I am running black from my wall wire to the Line side? Then black from the load side out to my power block? Do I need to run the neutral from my wall wire to the switch as well...and then to the neutral block? Now that I write this out it sounds right.

(What I think confused me is I tried to wire the wall to the power block and the block to the switch. That would have worked for only one device instead of whole control panel.)

PJ, if you see this, I am assuming the switch is powerful enough to run a 120v element at 20 amps.
 
First off, do you know if the switches latch shut? How many screw terminals are on the back? If the green button latches shut, and the red button disengages the green button, then I think you will be ok. Though I don't know what the amp rating is on that switch.

I would recommend employing a continuity test on this one. Verify which terminals close when the you hit the green button. If you have more than two terminals, do more than two terminals become closed?

There are momentary push buttons that are to be used in conjunction with relays and holding contacts. So until I find out if those buttons latch closed and open, how many terminals there are, and the configuration of the contacts, all the help I can supply are a series of questions.
 
This is an actual on off switch. When you depress the green button then it is down. The red button makes the green button pop up a bit.

The screws on the back are exactly like the pdf I linked. In fact the image in the pdf is labeled the exact same name as my switch. Four screws. Two on the "Line" side and two on the "Load" side. It is either a 15amp 120 or a 10amp 240 (or something close to that).

Ok, went digging to find the actual one I ordered some time back.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17GZE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Yes this switch can handle 20Amp load. And yes just connect both neutral and hot from wall to the "line" side and connect your hot and neutral blocks to load side. As on the diagram from your first post pdf.
 
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