gasman
Well-Known Member
if i have ahbs install the weldless stainless steel bulkhead and ball valve fitting to a new brew pot , will those rubber washers hold up under the heat of a 60 min boil...thanks
will weldless fittings hold up to heat
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menschmaschine
Well-Known Member
They are typically silicone o-rings and can take plenty of heat. They can, however, melt if flames shoot up the sides of the pot and hit them directly.
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
They'll be just fine, they wouldn't sell them otherwise. ;0)
P.S. I have weldless fittings on my keggle and do 90min boils with no issues.
P.S. I have weldless fittings on my keggle and do 90min boils with no issues.
They will break down, and they will fail eventually.
It's more likely that you'll see them cracking while you are cleaning them than to have some catastrophic failure. The sealing washers can be replaced.
You can prolly use Buna-N, O rings or flat stock if you want and get along fine.
Buna-N is the most common O ring material around. Pretty much every black o ring you can fond anywhere (outside of specialty applications) will be Buna-N and it's good to 248F as a upper end working temperature.
The O rings they sell at the BORG will be Buna-N.
Buna-N is also known as: Neoprene, EPR, Nitrile, NBR, EPR, EPT, EPDM
Among those, there are some characteristics that differ including tensile strength and thermal tolerance.
http://www.rubber-group.com/Library/characteristics.pdf
At that 248F temperature the Buna-N, O rings are supposed to seal effectively and stand up to use in a sliding shaft or static seal application.
Of course using propane you might cook off your seals and O rings if the heat from the flames or burner can wrap up to the metal - pretty much like the heat that collects in a pot handle can make it much hotter than the pot if it's above the flame or in the hot air column.
If you are concerned, you can always shield your gaskets with a little strip of any metal, even aluminum roofing flashing, or plain old aluminum foil should serve. A little strip under the bottom of the pot projecting out a couple inches beyond the metal of the valve and barb should provide your seals all the cover they need.
It's more likely that you'll see them cracking while you are cleaning them than to have some catastrophic failure. The sealing washers can be replaced.
You can prolly use Buna-N, O rings or flat stock if you want and get along fine.
Buna-N is the most common O ring material around. Pretty much every black o ring you can fond anywhere (outside of specialty applications) will be Buna-N and it's good to 248F as a upper end working temperature.
The O rings they sell at the BORG will be Buna-N.
Buna-N is also known as: Neoprene, EPR, Nitrile, NBR, EPR, EPT, EPDM
Among those, there are some characteristics that differ including tensile strength and thermal tolerance.
http://www.rubber-group.com/Library/characteristics.pdf
At that 248F temperature the Buna-N, O rings are supposed to seal effectively and stand up to use in a sliding shaft or static seal application.
Of course using propane you might cook off your seals and O rings if the heat from the flames or burner can wrap up to the metal - pretty much like the heat that collects in a pot handle can make it much hotter than the pot if it's above the flame or in the hot air column.
If you are concerned, you can always shield your gaskets with a little strip of any metal, even aluminum roofing flashing, or plain old aluminum foil should serve. A little strip under the bottom of the pot projecting out a couple inches beyond the metal of the valve and barb should provide your seals all the cover they need.
I would think replacing silicone o-rings with new silicone would be a better option. Not that the Buna-N ones wont work but the silicone ones are rated to 400F and are only a few bucks. Just a little bit of extra assurance goes a long way.
Indeed true true.
I'm just throwing Buna-N out there as a valid option.
What if it's Sunday afternoon and you see your seals have cracked and your mash is done?
Ace hardware or the Borg can present perfectly good solutions.
There are polyymers that can go past 400F too like Bayer's Tedur.
I've used Tedur in Laboratory apparatus It can laugh at repeated exposure to high temperatures that leave most other polymers wilted and deformed.
Polysulfone goes to 410 F that's pretty good too.
polyamide-imide goes up to 528 F
Polyphenylene Sulfide goes up to 392 F
My favorite is Rulon XL which is workable up to 550 F is wonderfully machinable and dissapates heat.
But out of all of them including silicone, Buna-N is the most common, easy to find, rugged polymer going. Finding Buna-N gasket material in sheet or as an O-Ring is as easy as finding pig tracks on a farm.
ERGO: the suggestion.
As an interesting aside cutting a patch out of a leather work glove will work fine to so long as you sanitized it.
I'd say pretty much anything you can find in a pinch will do if it has to.
Or stated another way: What would a Trappist monk have done a few hundred years ago?
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