Will this cheap 3500 watt induction burner work?

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sammy33 said:
I am thinking of going even cheaper as a test. Since I do 2.5g batches I was thinking about getting the Duxtop 1800w for $70 and a 22qt induction ready kettle from Walmart for $60.

This is less than I was going to spend on just a new kettle! If the heating/boil sucks I can return and go with 3500w.

wobdee - Are you an electrician? If you have someone install the 220v outlet for you please let me know what you were quoted $. :)
Click to expand...

No electrician here, just know enough to be dangerous. I'll let you know the cost if I hire an elecrtician.

A smaller kettle may work fine with that 1800w plate and 2.5 gal batches. I think you want to find one thats less than 12" diameter so it doesnt hang over the sides. I think my 8 gal mega is too wide and reduces some of the heating power. there are a few people here that have gotten away with the 1800w and smaller batches but there are just as many that haven't and have gone back to gas or added a heat stick.
 
Well, after thinking about it and deciding which way I want to go with electric brewing (and it will be electric), I think I'm going to go the 3500W route. I'll figure out how to get the power upstairs in the mean time - I suppose I could always make an adapter cord and run it off the stove's recepticle in the mean time.

Still haven't decided on a pot - I'd go the Bayou route if I knew it was induction approved but I don't want to gamble on it. That means more wide/squat pots that are induction approved (and might allow me to make a frame to support the weight). I'm just nervous about a 10gal pot with 8gal of hot, sticky fluid in it.

Now to get the plan in motion.
 
sumbrewindude - The Bayou Classic pots are shown here in this thread working on induction. I also emailed them and they stated that all there SS pots work on induction. HTH :)
 
I am planning on the IC3500 and the BC 44 qt pot as well. Pretty excited to get out of the kitchen and brewing outside isn't a viable option.
 
I just got home with a new kettle for induction brewing. :ban:

I saw this one at wally world on a previous shopping trip. It has the tri-clad bottom with a magnetic layer. It is 5.5 gallons with dimension ~12" dia and ~13" tall. Question now is what induction burner?

Here is my old (non-induction) 4g kettle for comparison and a pic of the label.

tramontina-kettle.jpg


tramontina.jpg
 
I have this burner and it works great for BIAB.

It's great for the mash as you can set it to 150* temp and while it won't hold 150 all the way through the mash without stirring, it will help keep the temp up there. It would be perfect if you could set it to 155, but it only has 10 degree increments.

The biggest downside is that it shuts itself off after 60 minutes of noninteraction. So every time you stir your mash, or add hops during your boil, you should fiddle with the controls to keep it awake.

It does need a NEMA 6-20 outlet, typically used for air conditioners. If you don't have one already, you'll have to wire up a double-pole 20A breaker so keep that in mind.
 
wobdee - Awesome! Looks like you are testing it now. :)

carl and geoff - you guys have had plenty of time to read that BYO article by now. :D
Give us a synopsis?
 
wobdee said:
Got mine in the other day, going to test it out Sunday.
View attachment 181113


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
Click to expand...

Hmm.. I like the short height table. I need to find something like that to brew on. Having the burner and pot on the kitchen counter makes it fairly tall and difficult to lift the grain bag out of at that height... on the other hand I suppose I could just use a ladder or climb on the counter :mug:
 
carlk47 said:
Hmm.. I like the short height table. I need to find something like that to brew on. Having the burner and pot on the kitchen counter makes it fairly tall and difficult to lift the grain bag out of at that height... on the other hand I suppose I could just use a ladder or climb on the counter :mug:
Click to expand...


Actually it's not a table, it's my propane burner with a piece of plywood on top. Just the right height for me.

Had no problem bringing 5 gal of water to a boil and didn't need full power to maintain a good rolling boil.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
sammy33 said:
wobdee - Awesome! Looks like you are testing it now. :)

carl and geoff - you guys have had plenty of time to read that BYO article by now. :D
Give us a synopsis?
Click to expand...


Basically the same info I've read in all the induction related threads on HBT :)

- it's simple
- 1800 watts won't boil enough for a 5gal batch (3500 will obv)
- doesn't require special ventilation concerns like propane. (I would add: a way to vent the boil condensation would be wise. )
- similar to heating elements in that it can get you brewing indoors without gas but easier for the less DIY capable. But costs more than just elements. It didn't mention that using elements may require a way to control temps/output. Whereas it is built into most induction systems.
 
Sammy33 - I have that same pot!! (4gal wally special) :tank:


carlk47 said:
Hmm.. I like the short height table. I need to find something like that to brew on. Having the burner and pot on the kitchen counter makes it fairly tall and difficult to lift the grain bag out of at that height... on the other hand I suppose I could just use a ladder or climb on the counter :mug:
Click to expand...

I'm going to use an aluminum work platform, check out HD for them, they're about $30, fold flat, and are 20" or so high from the floor. Should be perfect, holding the plate/pot and my mash tun at the same level and be easy to work with. Also should be high enough to get a bucket/carboy under also.

Then I need a pump and a new CFC to hang underneath it...



This madness never stops, does it? :(
 
sumbrewindude said:
Well, after thinking about it and deciding which way I want to go with electric brewing (and it will be electric), I think I'm going to go the 3500W route. I'll figure out how to get the power upstairs in the mean time - I suppose I could always make an adapter cord and run it off the stove's recepticle in the mean time.

Still haven't decided on a pot - I'd go the Bayou route if I knew it was induction approved but I don't want to gamble on it. That means more wide/squat pots that are induction approved (and might allow me to make a frame to support the weight). I'm just nervous about a 10gal pot with 8gal of hot, sticky fluid in it.

Now to get the plan in motion.
Click to expand...

I have the Avantco ic3500 with a Bayou Classic ten gallon and it works very well. The Bayou does not have the triple ply bottom, I don't know if that would work better or not. I rapped my kettle in Reflectix and its a good combo. Very quick boil times and holds a vigorous rolling boil with over 8 gal set at only 2700 or 2900.

img_4976-62269.jpg
 
That's a sweet setup. Eventually that's where I want to be, just minus one cooler.

I was poking around Midwest, looks like they've got a Polarware that's made from 304/18-8 Stainless which should be induction compatible for not a lot so that may be my route now that Northern Brewer isn't stocking the Tallboy's anymore.
 
rdavidw said:
I have the Avantco ic3500 with a Bayou Classic ten gallon and it works very well. The Bayou does not have the triple ply bottom, I don't know if that would work better or not. I rapped my kettle in Reflectix and its a good combo. Very quick boil times and holds a vigorous rolling boil with over 8 gal set at only 2700 or 2900.

img_4976-62269.jpg
Click to expand...

How's your steam/moisture and what are you doing (if anything) to control it? Love the rhino ontop of the electrical panel :mug:
 
brettwasbtd said:
How's your steam/moisture and what are you doing (if anything) to control it? Love the rhino ontop of the electrical panel :mug:
Click to expand...

Not too bad for the most part. It's an unfinished basement around 2000 sq feet. There is a water pipe that runs in the ceiling right over my brew kettle that would condense water and drip back down into my brew. I just stapled up my leftover Reflectix on the ceiling and problem solved. When I do big beers and boil off more then two gallons the whole house smells great for a day or so. Luckily my wife likes the smell :mug:
 
I have read this post from start to finish and it seems the the 3500 is a great choice. My question is temp controls I read the manual for this unit and my understanding is if the BIAB mash sits the temp drops unless you stir about every 20 minutes. I saw a pic with re circulation pump does this help in the temp control? I have done alot of BIAB and it my prefer method of 5 gal brewing and my efficiency has been great even with stouts yep stouts too. I am picky so bare with me any control issues I might need to know about? I am also think about 10 gallon with a cooler any issue with that procedure other than the normal ones?
:tank:
 
Hey gwjames47!

Thanks for the vid.

Next time you brew can you record the boil using both burners?

In my simple comparison tests, I was never able to get water to boil in a wider diameter pot using a single Max Burton 1800.

It would be interesting to see your boiling wort with two burners.
 
PoorBoy said:
Anyone tried getting a bigger boil going? I have the 62qt BC stainless, and was wondering if anyone tried a 12g boil for a 10g batch.
Click to expand...

I just don't see that happening with 3500W. If you do the BTU conversion, the 3500W sort of tops out at 6-7gal, maybe a smidge more with thermal insulation. A 12gal boil would require quite a bit more - closer to 5500W and a dedicated element.

The do make induction units capable of this, but you're looking at 3 phase and a LOT of money.
 
The Cooktek MSP-7000 would do it! Guessing this thing is several thousand dollars though. :drunk:

7000 Watts - 62,000 BTU Equivalent
Boils 5 gallons in 15 minutes

cooktek-7000.jpg
 
sammy33 said:
The Cooktek MSP-7000 would do it! Guessing this thing is several thousand dollars though. :drunk:

7000 Watts - 62,000 BTU Equivalent
Boils 5 gallons in 15 minutes
Click to expand...

Yep, 3500-ish from a cursory googling. But damn. That is a fine piece of kit.

My Avantco 3500W can boil 5 gallons in 15 minutes, so I'm guessing this thing could do much better than that. It surely would have no trouble bringing 10 gallons to a boil in 15-20 minutes and I'm guessing it wouldn't have any problem keeping 20 gallons at a rolling boil (though it might take a bit of time to get it there). 71k BTU equivalent if that tells you anything.

But then, the downsides are that it costs ~20 times as much as the Avantco for only 2 times the output; also, it needs 3-phase power which I guarantee you don't have at your home unless you day job is "mad scientist."

Still, I might have to put that monster on my list of "things to put in my brewing castle next time I am a billionaire."
 
I wonder if we’re comparing apples to apples. 1kw is about 3412 btu/hr, but we’re talking input, not output.

An induction plate is about 90% efficient, conventional electric 70% and gas about 35%. Based on that, 3500w induction is equivalent to 4500w conventional or about 30,000 btu.

The conventional electric efficiency is for a stove top burner, not a heat stick. I imagine putting the burner inside the pot would be 90% or better.

Note that this is into the wort, it doesn’t count heat loss from the pot.
 
Has anyone else seen the youtube video of a guy that brews with induciton burners? He has two, but one of them is analog, so he can have a temp control, control it! I cant for the life of me find any analog induction burners however :(



around the 3:45 mark an don you can see the herms kettle cooker is induction and getting switched on and off fairly often throughout
 
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After a few homebrews :tank: and a blessing from SWMBO I just ordered the Vollrath Mirage Cadet!

I am completely enchanted by induction brewing and this thread has pushed me over the edge. This cooktop has all the features I wanted: 1800 watts 120v, pan size up to 14", 100F starting temp with ten degree increments.

Step mashing in my future I see. (Yoda)

mirage-cadet.jpg
 
Sammy - Mind if I ask where you're getting it from?

The more I think about it, while it'd be awesom to have the 3500W burner, it's just me drinking the beer and if my basement is any indication of what a 1.5gal brewer can do, it's going to take me a while to get through all those bottles.

I figure I can AG up to 3gal with no problems, and if I really want to go 4.5/5 I can just partial mash it. Really I can't see making that amount for just me (and occcasionally the SWMBO).
 
sumbrewindude - I bought it from the Webstaurant Store. $239 shipped. Agreement was SWMBO gets to use it for fondue and I get it for brewing. LOL!

I do 2.5g batches and 1g testers so this setup with the kettle I posted earlier will be a great small batch system for me.

Now I just need a grain mill, more carboys, oxygen aeration system, stir plate, kegerator, 2.5g kegs, beer gun, another fridge, basement utility sink, did I mention more carboys, oh and a second induction cooktop, upgraded BIAB bag, pH tester, chugger pump, recirc fittings...you know just a couple more things. :drunk:
 
Sammy -

AIH's got 3gal pinlocks right now for $50, I grabbed a few already in prep for kegging. Just haven't gotten that far yet, still need to find a chest freezer and get the CO2/regs. I look forward to getting there - eventually.

It'd be really nice to get off the stove top - we've got a microwave over the top of it and it really restricts the pot size, not to mention a coil top just doesn't have the heat that even a gas stove has.

If I can find a way to do partial boils (4-4.5gal) on 1800W, I may go that route for the occasional 5gal batches I might make.

I look forward to hearing about your experiences with 2.5gal batches on this system!
 
Induction operates on all metals depending on frequency. You can melt ferrous metals (iron & steel), as well as aluminum, copper, bronze, titanium....etc. The same principle is used on induction cooktops. While it may heat more on some metals at a given frequency than others, I strongly doubt from what I know of induction heating that the "magnet test" on stainless steel is a valid indicator. Without testing stainless steel that a magnet will stick to, next to stainless steel that a magnet will not stick to ........ or knowing someone who actually has done this test, I would tend to regard this as highly questionable folk wisdom....

H.W.
 
Owly055 said:
Induction operates on all metals depending on frequency. You can melt ferrous metals (iron & steel), as well as aluminum, copper, bronze, titanium....etc. The same principle is used on induction cooktops. While it may heat more on some metals at a given frequency than others, I strongly doubt from what I know of induction heating that the "magnet test" on stainless steel is a valid indicator. Without testing stainless steel that a magnet will stick to, next to stainless steel that a magnet will not stick to ........ or knowing someone who actually has done this test, I would tend to regard this as highly questionable folk wisdom....

H.W.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Could both of these statements be true:

1) All stainless pots that a magnet stick to can be used with induction burners.

2) Some stainless pots that a magnet WILL NOT stick to, can be used with induction burners.

So the magnet test could be a worthwhile, albeit limiting, test?
 
geoffm33 said:
Interesting. Could both of these statements be true:

1) All stainless pots that a magnet stick to can be used with induction burners.

2) Some stainless pots that a magnet WILL NOT stick to, can be used with induction burners.

So the magnet test could be a worthwhile, albeit limiting, test?
Click to expand...


So the proof as the say is "in the pudding". What is needed then is for someone with an induction cooktop to test various specific stainless steel pots, turkey fryers, etc, and establish a database of which specific pot people already have work. It seems clear that the label "induction ready" is probably a way to justify a higher price..... The item next to it may work fine too.....

H.W.
 
All SS is resistant to inductance, we have to use SS panels to pass single conductor power cables through buildings in the oilfield because if we passed them through steel it would generate excessive eddie currents that create a hot spot on the cable.
This effect is greatly reduced by using flat SS panels at house penetrations with aluminum CGBs but it is not negated completely.

All cold rolled SS will have magnetic properties. Although it is a ferrous material, SS itself is not magnetic.
The process of creating the pots made them magnetic, this is why different brands of SS pots will bond stronger to the magnet than others.

That said, if the bottom is rolled up like most commercial pots is should be highly magnetic along that bend but weak in the center.
All of you heat generation will originate from the rolled bend and propagate inward. You would probably have trouble if your pot hanged off the edge too far.
If it is a thick bottom pot with a wielded bottom then you may be out of luck for induction.
 

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