Why does my mash ALWAYS get stuck?

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Bendbiker

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hi everyone-

I have the typical SS braided hose setup in a 10 gallon cooler and my mash ALWAYS gets stuck. Why does this happen? I don't do wheat or anything too complicated but it seems all the flow comes from the proximal end of the hose and eventually this just jams up and I get no flow unless I constantly move the spoon around the intake.

It seems everyone has SS braided hose mash tuns that work well but not mine. Can anyone help me troubleshoot?

Thanks so much
:drunk::drunk:
 
Check your crush. Too fine?

As a secondary measure, try adding some rice hulls to your mash. I do this on big mashes with a lot of grains and it helps a lot.
 
hmm...I looks like an SS braid. interesting. If I had a plastic one would that explain my stuck mashes?
 
I had similar issues for some high OG brews, so I inserted an 8" copper tube with a bunch of slits on the bottom and I have never had an issue since. Others have used a SS spring to act as a backbone for support. My efficiencies are always 75%+ so I have no complaints!
 
I used to use a 30" braid. Never had a stuck sparge, and really I don't even think I ever had a slow one. I made lots of wheat beers (5 and 10g batches) and I did not use rice hulls. Oats were not a problem either. Very little stirring. I do use a pump to vorlauf and move wort around.

I just switched over to a bazooka screen and it has worked well also. They are really nice and fairly cheap... and they don't crush (easily, anyway).

Sorry, I know this isn't much help to you.
 
I used a SS braid when I started and had similar problems. I never figured out what was wrong. In frustration I switched from the braid to a SS screen and haven't had a single problem since. No change in efficiency either.
 
how fast are you draining your mash? if you drain it to fast it will compact the grain and stick your mash. also could your braid be collapsing?
 
Yea, definitely make 100% sure it is SS. I got bit by the SS looking plastic braid - several batches went fine, then I had a batch with a slightly higher grain bill and it crushed the dang thing.

Could have sworn it was stainless when I cut the ends off - even got some sparks from the dremel. Once I got an actual SS braid the difference in strength when I pinched it was dramatic. No problems since.
 
Hmm...I guess it was kinda easy to cut. Maybe I should head to home depot and try to make sure I get an SS one. THey are a lot harder?

My braided hose worked well for about 1 batch and then never again. I thought I'd retry all grain yesterday and it failed miserably. took me two hours to drain it and ended up filtering everything through my brew in a bag. It does look a bit collapsed and only seems to suck from the end near the ball valve. Perhaps I got dupped with a plastic hose?
 
Yea that sounds exactly like what happened to me, it worked fine for a few batches, but then was collapsed all the way up to the ball valve with only the smallest amount of wort being able to drain out.

The stainless took a bit more effort for the dremel to go through, but still wasn't bad.

My wife bought this (or something very much like it) off amazon - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HE5EPU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Turns out the 2-pack SS was cheaper than the single plastic braid I got from HD. Now I have a spare or can make a dual loop system if ever felt the need.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
hmm....sounds like that could definitely be the problem then...

Thanks guys, you saved me a lot of future dollars by sticking with all grain!....
 
If you did not get your fingers pricked by the braid when you were cutting it off, pulling the tubing out and clamping it to your cooler, it was not stainless steel.
 
hmm...I looks like an SS braid. interesting. If I had a plastic one would that explain my stuck mashes?

Hmm...I guess it was kinda easy to cut. Maybe I should head to home depot and try to make sure I get an SS one. THey are a lot harder?

My braided hose worked well for about 1 batch and then never again. I thought I'd retry all grain yesterday and it failed miserably. took me two hours to drain it and ended up filtering everything through my brew in a bag. It does look a bit collapsed and only seems to suck from the end near the ball valve. Perhaps I got dupped with a plastic hose?

Sounds like you may have the plastic one. I bought the 1 inch water heater feed line in the water heater department of HD . Never had it collapse or a stuck sparge in over 2 years still looks like the day I put it together
 
Another thing to consider is the speed you drain your sparge water. If you drain your sparge water to fast you will compact your grains and you will have a stuck sparge on your hands. (A good thing to do is to open your valve about ¼ to ½ the way.) To correct a stuck sparge you will need to close your ball valve on your mash tun, add some water and stir the mash until everything is loosened up and free again. This should free up your stuck sparge. Mashing is a process that should not be rushed. If you take your time and have a good draining set up everything should flow perfectly.
*
Also, don’t forget about your first runnings. Before you drain your wort into your brew kettle take your first runnings. This is where you drain about a half gallon or so of your wort into a sanitized container and then poor back into your mash tun. This wort will not look clear and that’s to be expected. The purpose for the first runnings is to clear out the settled material so your wort can drain smoothly.*
*
Hope this helps…
*
Cheers & Happy Brewing
*
 
Another thing to consider is the speed you drain your sparge water. If you drain your sparge water to fast you will compact your grains and you will have a stuck sparge on your hands. (A good thing to do is to open your valve about ¼ to ½ the way.)

I guess I am lucky? I not only open the ball valve 100%, but I also have a pump pulling as hard as it can. No sticks.
 
Another thing to consider is the speed you drain your sparge water. If you drain your sparge water to fast you will compact your grains and you will have a stuck sparge on your hands. (A good thing to do is to open your valve about ¼ to ½ the way.) To correct a stuck sparge you will need to close your ball valve on your mash tun, add some water and stir the mash until everything is loosened up and free again. This should free up your stuck sparge. Mashing is a process that should not be rushed. If you take your time and have a good draining set up everything should flow perfectly.
*
Also, don’t forget about your first runnings. Before you drain your wort into your brew kettle take your first runnings. This is where you drain about a half gallon or so of your wort into a sanitized container and then poor back into your mash tun. This wort will not look clear and that’s to be expected. The purpose for the first runnings is to clear out the settled material so your wort can drain smoothly.*
*
Hope this helps…
*
Cheers & Happy Brewing
*


Hate to get into semantics, but "first runnings" go into your boil pot. The thing you are describing is the vorlauf, which means recirculate in German (or so I am told... I only speak English and pig latin - and I can say a bunch of cool stuff during a burp, but that really isn't a different language... but I digress).

Best way to loosen up a stuck sparge is to blow some sparge water, or air, back into the drain. If you use a pump, just reverse direction and blast some hot sparge water into the valve. I know lots of folks blow air in there, too, just to get the screen clear.
 

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