Why BIAB?

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I have to ask... how do you pick up an hour over typical 3 vessel systems? Isn't BIAB supposed to be more or less a batch sparge, or are you comparing it to fly sparging (which I understand to be pretty time consuming)?
 
I have to ask... how do you pick up an hour over typical 3 vessel systems? Isn't BIAB supposed to be more or less a batch sparge, or are you comparing it to fly sparging (which I understand to be pretty time consuming)?

The mash and the sparge are one operation, it's a full liquor volume mash, there is no seperate sparge concept.
 
My only experience is with 1gal stove top recipes, so I didn't realize that even batch sparging would be that much more time consuming.
 
I have to ask... how do you pick up an hour over typical 3 vessel systems? Isn't BIAB supposed to be more or less a batch sparge, or are you comparing it to fly sparging (which I understand to be pretty time consuming)?

The mash and the sparge are one operation, it's a full liquor volume mash, there is no seperate sparge concept.

bingo!

here's an example brew day for me...

heat strike water (7.5 gallons)
dough in with 11.5 lbs of grain
mash for 90 mins
pull bag and drain/squeeze
boil for 90 mins
chill
transfer to carboy
pitch yeast

that's about 3.5 hours 4 if you include clean up. I could shave even more time and mash for 60 and boil for 60 if I wanted..
 
Feel free to tell me to go research somewhere else, but isn't batch sparging only a few minutes of steeping plus the time it takes to drain? I'm still pieceing all this knowledge together while I wait to see if/when the local brewery will have some kegs for keggle.
 
a batch sparge would be draining the first runnings (that can take time) the add the sparge water.. stir, let settle for 10 minutes or so then drain and repeat if needed.

it adds time to the process. not as much as fly sparging but not as fast as BIAB
 
I started AG doing the igloo cooler batch sparge method, but then converted over to a single vessel electric BIAB system. I will never go back. It just makes for an overall easier and faster brew day.
 
Mysticmead said:
a batch sparge would be draining the first runnings (that can take time) the add the sparge water.. stir, let settle for 10 minutes or so then drain and repeat if needed.

it adds time to the process. not as much as fly sparging but not as fast as BIAB

And doesn't clean up time start to add up with traditional All-grain? I just rinse a bag.

Sent from my Android, please excuse my grammar.
 
of course it adds up... that's another thing I love about BIAB... simple clean up.

now if I ever want to do a HUGE beer (barley wine) with 25+ pounds of grain I might want to think about a 3v setup.. but for now I'm more than happy with a 5 gallon batch and BIAB :D
 
Has anyone tried temperature controlled mashes... not like decoction (though I guess it's similar), but more like Papazian's instructions where he holds the mash at a lower temp for 30 min, then raises it for the next 30? I'm curious how a method like this works with BIAB. Like, does the bag get in the way somehow or a concern with heating? What are the practical limitations?
 
step mashing is possible with BIAB.. you just need to make sure that you either stir the entire time you are heating and/or have something to keep the bag off the bottom. I direct heat to mash out temps. I stir the mash like crazy to make sure that the bag doesn't melt. works great. others add something to the bottom of the BK.. like a cake rack, or vegetable steamer or something similar. what ever works for you is what is best :D
 
Just did my first AG BIAB batch tonight. I decided to start simple with 2.5 gallons of low gravity bitter but I hit my expected OG on the nose. Pretty happy about that but I'm reminding myself it won't be that easy all the time, especially when I work with bigger grain bills.
 
swoof said:
Just did my first AG BIAB batch tonight. I decided to start simple with 2.5 gallons of low gravity bitter but I hit my expected OG on the nose. Pretty happy about that but I'm reminding myself it won't be that easy all the time, especially when I work with bigger grain bills.

It will still be easy. it'll just be heavier. Congrats on your first AG!

Sent from my Epic 4g using Home Brew Talk
 
Is the voile fabric people are using for BIAB really that thin whispy stuff used for sheer curtains? Seems like it would tear pretty easily.
 
mistercameron said:
Is the voile fabric people are using for BIAB really that thin whispy stuff used for sheer curtains? Seems like it would tear pretty easily.

yep that's the stuff we're using. It's a lot stronger than you think.

Sent from my Epic 4g using Home Brew Talk
 
The material is very strong, my grain bill for a pilsener this weekend was 14kg (30lb) dry. I'd imagine it was close enough to 45lb when I hand pulled it. It's well able to hold the weight, no issues with strength at all.
 
Bought some cheap fabric at IKEA (yes i'm swedish) called Sarita and made a bag. Worked like a charm to get that sweet wort collected!

Think i'm gonna put my mash tun in the closet for a couple of brews. BIAB is sweet!
 
My BIAB only brew rig is coming together. Attached are a couple pics of the rig and a test run of the burner. The solenoids, March 809, and flow meters will be here next week. The pot in the middle will be for dunk sparging and will be ported and have a false bottom for recirculating for a couple minutes before it's pumped up to the brew kettle. It will also have a dedicated burner that is not temp controlled.

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Nice setup.

To prevent my bag from melting, I used a stainless steel pot holder (the type that keeps a hot pot off your wooden table) in the bottom of my kettle. Pure mash BIAB Heaven.
 
My BIAB only brew rig is coming together. Attached are a couple pics of the rig and a test run of the burner. The solenoids, March 809, and flow meters will be here next week. The pot in the middle will be for dunk sparging and will be ported and have a false bottom for recirculating for a couple minutes before it's pumped up to the brew kettle. It will also have a dedicated burner that is not temp controlled.

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So, I suppose the obvious question is: If you are going to invest the time and money to put that kind of setup together, why stick with BIAB?

I BIAB, and I have my reasons (aside from monetary) but I'm curious as to your reasons.
 
guess some people like to tinker and some like the bling.. I think it's overkill for BIAB but its what he wants so its all good..

I wouldn't mind a RIMS Electric BIAB setup... all in one Keggle though..
 
guess some people like to tinker and some like the bling.. I think it's overkill for BIAB but its what he wants so its all good..

I wouldn't mind a RIMS Electric BIAB setup... all in one Keggle though..


I'm not challanging his commitment to BIAB. I actually am curious what made him stick with BIAB. Like I said, I currently BIAB and I have my reasons. I'm looking to hear stuff from someone that's done what he's doing.
 
I'm not challanging his commitment to BIAB. I actually am curious what made him stick with BIAB. Like I said, I currently BIAB and I have my reasons. I'm looking to hear stuff from someone that's done what he's doing.

I could have done it all in one brew pot, but I wanted to be able to make 10 gallon batches with my existing 11 gallong brew pots. If I put 1/2 of the grains in each brew pot and have them recirculate in a figure 8 flow then I can mash the grains for 10 gallons. It also gives me flexibility to brew two seperate batches at the same time. Also, my biggest problem with BIAB is temperature control, this direct fire, recirculating mash system will allow me to control mash temp very precisely with the PID temp controllers. Below are my concept drawings for this design. I drew these first and then started the design.

I'll have more flexibility, than the typical Brutus 10 system plus I'll have all the advantages of BIAB. I'm also adding a direct fire sink tub between the brew pots that I can do a dunk sparge and then pump the sparged wort up to the brew pot as the first wort is heating up.

Plus I like to design and build stuff......see last pic of ther conical fermenters that I designed.

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Hi, I just found this thread while searching "what is BIAB". Sounds pretty interesting, and I love the idea of shaving a couple of hours off my brewday (currently using a cooler MLT + fly sparge). What I'd llike to know is what kind of effect has the large volume of mash water been on the brew? Has anyone had beers that have been lacking in malt tase or sweetness as a result of the thin mash?
 
Well, I think you'll find that the primary attraction of BIAB to a lot of people is less equipment to buy, store, and clean. Probably you're not going to save 2 hours in a brewday unless you normally do a REALLY long fly sparge.

But to answer the 2nd question, I have not seen any lack of sweetness or maltiness due to the thin mash.
 

BIAB w/ bling...this is great! I guess this BIAB thing is here to stay...hah. I often think if I were going AG today, the BIAB method would likely be my choice. I started AG brewing a few years ago when cooler MT's were in vogue, and seemed the easiest way to get your feet wet and kegs filled.
 
Instead of my usual 10 gallon 3 keggle brew-day I did a first time BIAB of 6 gallons. I fought PID overshoot problems and a few other minor glitches, but all in all I surely saved some time today. In addition I can still walk... normally by the time I'm done cleaning the 3 keggles I can barely walk due to a bad back. BIAB is going to be my future method for sure.
 
Instead of my usual 10 gallon 3 keggle brew-day I did a first time BIAB of 6 gallons. I fought PID overshoot problems and a few other minor glitches, but all in all I surely saved some time today. In addition I can still walk... normally by the time I'm done cleaning the 3 keggles I can barely walk due to a bad back. BIAB is going to be my future method for sure.

welcome to the family... and congrats on your first BIAB
 
Its funny that people call biab "entry level", however a good amount of people who do it, actually have 3 vessel rigs. Gotta love it.

I just bought a weldless ball valve for my biab pot, so I can recirculate thru my hop bag and get a crystal clear wort!
 
Quick disconnects and tubing added to my BIAB recirculating rig. Now I just need to wire the temperature controllers.

I'm trying to have as clean and simple design as possible. I love the simplicity of BIAB. I've done 10+ batches of BIAB and have had great results. Not going back, especially with the 3 hour brew days.

Cheers all,

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I'm finally starting to get my system together. I think I'm sold on the idea of BIAB, however after my experiences on stovetop I decided to build a 10gal rubbermaid mash tun so I can keep temps stable. I'm going to use the keggle I'm building for a combo HTL+BK.

For those interested, I found voile curtain material at Walmart yesterday - $4.25 for a 54x84" panel, IIRC. That's cheaper than buying by the yard from most places I found online. Now, how to convince my buddy's wife it's a good idea that she help me sew it up ?
 
My Brew in a Bag recirculating brew stand took it's maiden voyage today. Everything went well and the recirculating wort converted the starches in about 15 minutes less time than before. The wort was much clearer thanks to the recirculation.

Next step is to hook up the thermocouple and temperature controller so I don't have to keep manually turning on/off the burner.

Here are a couple brew day pics. I brewed an American Amber.

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For what its worth, my first BIAB got me 79.5% efficiency without really having to try. The hardest part was squeezing the bag... if you call that hard.
 
I started AG brewing with BIAB and do not expect to change, but one never knows. The limiting factors are kettle size, bag size and strength, and the ability to lift the bag from the pot. With stainless baskets and winches, those limits are not really relevant to the home brewer.

I pushed my system to its limit in May, with 26.4 lbs. grain and about 12 gallons of water in a 15 gallon pot, to yield 6 gallons of RIS for our brew club's 60 gallons. I did drain into buckets to make the bag easier to lift manually.

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Everyone has their method and most work. I crush at the store. On brew day, I prefer to mash in a cooler, double batch sparge and boil outside on a propane turkey fry burner. I am done in 3 to 3.5 hours and get 75% efficiency with many batches under my belt.

I tried BIAB and got lower efficiency but most important thought it was a pain in the rear. I don't care for it, but you should try it and see if you like it. Again, the legitimate methods discussed in this forum work (Batch, Fly, and BIAB plus hybrids of above) all work and the purpose of this reply is to try different methods and see what works best for you and your system.
 
Mysticmead said:
that right there is why most people see BIAB as inferior. we don't recirculate until we get clear wort and then collect the clear runoff. cloudy or clear it's all the same. it all clears up in the primary (if ya leave it long enough) or in the keg/bottle.

I recirculate the mash through the grain bag as there is a lot of fine particles that make it through the bag at first, and then usually recirculate through the hop bag throughout the entire boil and cooling period, so I catch any additional trub that settles out before moving the wort into the fermenter. Then I don't have to worry about the pick up tube getting clogged and having to sit there with an auto siphon racking 5g....and I get a nice clear beer!

I used to have issues holding temp during the mash, where I'd lose 5 degrees in 20 min...so I also tried a sleeping bag to wrap around the kettle during my last mash...held temp within 1-2 degrees for a 90 min mash! :D
 
When I first started brewing some 15 years ago, I had a full 3v system.

Jumping back into brewing this past year, I put together a 3v system... then I read about BiaB.

So I did what any creative guy would do... I took the best of each method and now have a super slick, super easy 2v MiaB (Mash in a Bag) setup. In fact, I just got my 10 gallon Home Depot cooler today from my Dad (cause he rocks like that), so I can do larger grain bills.

My brew day starts out like most everyone else's... boiling the water. I line my MLT cooler with my trusty bag and (until recently), dump the grains in and top off the cooler with my strike water. Lots of stirring and when the water hits in the mid- to high-150's, I screw the cover on and wrap the cooler in some old blankets. Mash time: 90 minutes.

Meanwhile, I heat up another few gallons of water while the grains are mashing. When the mash is done I pull the bag and let it drain into the MLT for a few minutes. Once the water in my BK is about 170F or so, I lower the bag into the water, give it a few good "swishes" and let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes.

After that time is up, I pull the bag out of the BK and set it in a large stainless colander over the BK and let it drain. While it's draining, I empty the contents of hte MLT into the BK and start the heat. Once the bag is done draining, I "top off" the BK by pouring water over the bag. Once I'm at my pre-boil level, I pull the bag and colander off and set it aside. (Once it's cooled, the g/f takes the grains and bags them up for bread and dog treats.)

This method is a guaranteed "high 80's" efficiency for me. Wort is always clear and I have minimal trub (I also HiaB (Hop in a Bag)), so I literally lose *maybe* 6 oz of wort to trub.

I'm not quite sure how I'm going to change things with the new 10 gallon MLT cooler. Maybe "top off" to 7 gallons or something like that.

:mug:
 
I pushed my system to its limit in May, with 26.4 lbs. grain and about 12 gallons of water in a 15 gallon pot...

Interesting.

I pushed my BIAB system to the limit with a Hopslam clone using 8 gallons water and 20.5 pounds of grain in a 10 gallon kettle. This was one of the best beers I've made to date but it's definitely the maximum for my rig.
 
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