Why am I getting a super high efficiency?

[urg8rb8]

BeerSmith is telling me my "Tot Efficiency" is 95%?!?!?! I just brewed an American Wheat beer and I took the OG and it is coming out to 1.054 for 6 gallons. I was expecting something much letter. Now I'll be getting a 6% ABV Amer. Wheat instead of the typically desired 4%. I hope this beer doesn't taste hot.

Recipe:

4# of white wheat
3# two row
4oz honey malt
2# honey

I originally planned for 5 gallons but had to dilute it down to 6 to make it reasonable. I mill my own grains with a corona-style mill and I mill it down very fine. Could this be the reason why I am getting really high efficiency? I also build my own water.

I'm just kinda confused

 

[FatDragon]

Very fine milling and a thin mash (I assume you BIAB with a fine Corona crush) have certainly contributed to high efficiency for me. I actually had one brewday with a thin, long, finely-crushed mash that registered at 107% on Beersmith! Even accounting for potential measurement errors, it had to be well into the 90's.

Note that pppg is an estimate of grain's potential gravity. A good batch of grain might actually have higher potential gravity than the typical estimate, so 95% might be 90% for the actual grain you're using - still high, but not otherworldly. If you read your hydrometer a bit high, measured your volume at 6 gallons when it was actually 5.8, these could all be factors as well (as they almost certainly were factors in my 107% batch, which interestingly was also my first >100% apparent attenuation batch, though that was understandable since it was mashed low and fermented REALLY hot with Belle Saison).

 

[urg8rb8]

I think I also mashed on the lower side and I am going to pitch US05. This beer is going to be very dry unfortunately.

 

[schematix]

I used to get crazy high efficiency until i bought a set of precision hydrometers. They are accurate to within 0.1 plato (about 0.4 SG units). Compare to a typical LHBS $8 hydrometer where you're lucky to read within 2 SG units.

I've owned various hydrometers over the years that were all over the place and couldn't agree with each other to within 0.006. I always recommend buying the right tools for this. It takes a set of 3 (~$100) to cover the useful brewing range.

 

[StewMakesBrew]

To me the proof is in the drinking, and there isn't a beer problem that can't be solved with asking yourself the question, "what would the Trappist Monks have done 1000 years ago."

That question always makes me stop worrying about the science and instead enjoy the art. I go with enough science to make sure I'm delivering the art.

To quote Charlie Papazian, don't worry, have a home brew. And when it's done, drink it and see if you like it. If you do, keep going. If not, then start thinking about changes you can make that will make it better.

But keep thinking about those Trappist Monks.

 

[Sailingeric]

I used to get crazy high efficiency until i bought a set of precision hydrometers. They are accurate to within 0.1 plato (about 0.4 SG units). Compare to a typical LHBS $8 hydrometer where you're lucky to read within 2 SG units.

I've owned various hydrometers over the years that were all over the place and couldn't agree with each other to within 0.006. I always recommend buying the right tools for this. It takes a set of 3 (~$100) to cover the useful brewing range.

I had similar problem with my hydrometer. I got a refractometer and that was probably one the best use of brewing money I have spent.

 

[schematix]

I had similar problem with my hydrometer. I got a refractometer and that was probably one the best use of brewing money I have spent.

I have a refractometer and use it ever brew day, but i find it to be even more inaccurate than an $8 hydrometer. I only use it for ball park measurements.

It's also useless once fermentation starts. It's only benefit is that you only need a few drops to get a measurement.

Precision narrow range hydrometers still reign.

 

[RM-MN]

BeerSmith is telling me my "Tot Efficiency" is 95%?!?!?! I just brewed an American Wheat beer and I took the OG and it is coming out to 1.054 for 6 gallons. I was expecting something much letter. Now I'll be getting a 6% ABV Amer. Wheat instead of the typically desired 4%. I hope this beer doesn't taste hot.

Recipe:

4# of white wheat
3# two row
4oz honey malt
2# honey

I originally planned for 5 gallons but had to dilute it down to 6 to make it reasonable. I mill my own grains with a corona-style mill and I mill it down very fine. Could this be the reason why I am getting really high efficiency? I also build my own water.

I'm just kinda confused

This is the major cause of the high efficiency. You may also have not measured the volumes accurately enough and that is adding to the presumed efficiency. Once you have made a few batches to confirm you normally get high efficiency you can adjust recipes to account for this and hit your numbers every time. I know it's tough to have to drink beer that is higher in alcohol than expected but consider it to be something to suffer through to balance out for those who get poor efficiency and have to suffer through drinking a beer that only makes 3% ABV.