Whirlpool port without valve?

[arnobg]

I'm designing my brew kettle with a welded 1/2" NPT whirlpool port. If I have a valve at the output of the pump do I need a valve at the whirlpool in at the kettle? Trying to figure out how to attach a cam lock fitting to the kettle.

Isn't that what this is for?

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=51_54&product_id=133

I am being told by the kettle company that I have to have a valve at the kettle on the return side.

 

[Yeastieboy]

I don't see why you would need a ball valve at the kettle assuming the whirlpool port is above the liquid... which it should be.

I also have a valve on my pump outlet which I use for all flow control.

Yes, the F-Style fitting would get mounted on the outside of your kettle, allowing you to connect hose using one of the Camlocks shown lower on that page.

By the way, if you haven't used Bargain Fittings yet, they are awesome!

 

[arnobg]

That's what I was thinking but on second thought the whirlpool valve will be below the wort line so I suppose a valve is necessary.

 

[WrQth]

My kettle has a whirlpool arm with only a camlock on the outside for the connection for the valve regulated pump output. The only issue I have had with not having a valve is when moving the chilled kettle from the garage to the basement where I ferment but the camlock cap fitting solves any splashing issues.

Edit: Image is what I use but not purchased from Brewhardware.com though this is their picture
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/whirpoolthreadin.htm

 

[Sconnie12]

The whirlpool port should be on the bottom third if designed correctly. That means you'll have liquid that is free to flow out of the kettle if there is just a cam lock fitting. Not sure the reasoning for not putting a valve on? Especially when a valve is like $20.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Unless you plan to disconnect the pump -> whirlpool segment of your plumbing you don't absolutely have to include a valve at the whirlpool port. I only mention this because putting a valve there introduces the risk of pressurizing your tubing. If you're using standard silicone tube, there is a chance of swelling and bursting.

Instead of doing that, if you can gravity drain into your carboy or bucket, you could just disconnect the kettle -> pump tube and use that. If you can't gravity drain, you could use a 3-way valve for your pump output so that you can close the whirlpool when you switch to pumping out.

 

[arnobg]

Yeah I wasn't really thinking. The whirlpool port will be around the 3 gallon mark so I went with a valve for that too.

 

[Sconnie12]

Unless you plan to disconnect the pump -> whirlpool segment of your plumbing you don't absolutely have to include a valve at the whirlpool port. I only mention this because putting a valve there introduces the risk of pressurizing your tubing. If you're using standard silicone tube, there is a chance of swelling and bursting.

Lol what?? I use a Chugger and don't even have clamps on my tube/barb fittings. No risk.

Yeah I wasn't really thinking. The whirlpool port will be around the 3 gallon mark so I went with a valve for that too.

Good call

 

[Yeastieboy]

If you use a whirlpool arm then the port doesn't need to be below liquid level. In my mind, any penetration below liquid level is just a potential point for leaks.

 

[Justintoxicated]

I don't see why you would need a ball valve at the kettle assuming the whirlpool port is above the liquid... which it should be.

I also have a valve on my pump outlet which I use for all flow control.

Yes, the F-Style fitting would get mounted on the outside of your kettle, allowing you to connect hose using one of the Camlocks shown lower on that page.

By the way, if you haven't used Bargain Fittings yet, they are awesome!

The whirlpool port should be a couple inches above the bottom of the kettle. From what I have done in the past and what I have researched. I would put a valve on, otherwise if you need the pump for something else (like recirculating, or sparge) you will have nothing to block the port while you mash out. Plus if you decide to not a pump you will basically have a hole in your kettle.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Lol what?? I use a Chugger and don't even have clamps on my tube/barb fittings. No risk.

<sigh>

Best practice is to avoid pressure on the silicone tubing, especially if you aren't using clamps. If you close the outlet end of your tubing you increase the risk that you will pop the tubing off of your barbs.

In this example that would mean closing the whirlpool port valve and opening the pump outlet valve.

 

[BeardedBrews]

If you use a whirlpool arm then the port doesn't need to be below liquid level. In my mind, any penetration below liquid level is just a potential point for leaks.

Agreed

The whirlpool port should be a couple inches above the bottom of the kettle.

You don't actually have to put the hole low in the kettle if you use an "arm".

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spincycle.htm

 

[Justintoxicated]

Agreed



You don't actually have to put the hole low in the kettle if you use an "arm".

http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spincycle.htm

Saw the link, I wish I knew about that part before I bought a punch and punched a hole in my new SS brewtech, which already had a hole at the top that I plugged.... I already had the whirlpool arm from bargain fittings and tried putting it at the top with the arm pointing downward, but it just wasn't quite long enough. And that was the longest one I had seen!

Luckily, I have never had a problem with leaks on my old pot that was setup this way.

But now I want a do-over!

I agree with putting a clamp on your tubing, no one wants to get injured by hot wort shooting out of your pump should the hose pop off or get yanked off etc.

 

[jddevinn]

Why on the top? The whirlpool inlet is typically on the bottom, you don't want it to splash.

 

[Yeastieboy]

The whirlpool port should be a couple inches above the bottom of the kettle. From what I have done in the past and what I have researched. I would put a valve on, otherwise if you need the pump for something else (like recirculating, or sparge) you will have nothing to block the port while you mash out. Plus if you decide to not a pump you will basically have a hole in your kettle.

If you use a whirlpool arm then the port doesn't need to be below liquid level. In my mind, any penetration below liquid level is just a potential point for leaks.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Why on the top? The whirlpool inlet is typically on the bottom, you don't want it to splash.

You put the hole in your kettle up at the top, and then use a long SS tube to go down to the bottom. This helps prevent leaks.

 

[Yeastieboy]

I've been using loc-line in my eBIAB system that actually runs through a penetration in the lid. I can position it at any grain bed level for recirculating the mash and reposition it along the kettle wall just below liquid surface for whirlpool during chilling.

 

[h22lude]

It doesn't matter where you put the hole (above or below the wort). The hole location just depends on what style arm you buy. If you have the brewhardware arm style, the hole will be on top. If you have a sort tube, the hole will be on the bottom.

If you have the short tube style, you will need a valve.

 

[jddevinn]

I didn't know we were concerned about leaking valves!!! My HLT has (4) weldless connections for valves that are beneath the water level, a plug to eliminate a thermometer, and (2) heating elements. The MT has a single valve and plug to eliminate thermometer. BK has (2) valves, a plug and a heating element. None of these connections have ever leaked.



(but of course since I typed this they will all leak tomorrow)

 

[Yeastieboy]

I didn't know we were concerned about leaking valves!!! My HLT has (4) weldless connections for valves that are beneath the water level, a plug to eliminate a thermometer, and (2) heating elements. The MT has a single valve and plug to eliminate thermometer. BK has (2) valves, a plug and a heating element. None of these connections have ever leaked.



(but of course since I typed this they will all leak tomorrow)

That's just because you are so awesome and did an impeccable job installing your valves.