Whirlpool IPA Recipe Critique

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TheJasonT

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Greetings!

I've been volunteering at a local brewery recently and helping them brew. Recently they did an IPA where 80% of the boil hops went into the whirlpool with awesome results. I would like to try this. Here's a recipe I came up with. What are your thoughts?

OG: 1.063
FG: 1.015
ABV: 6.2%
SRM: 5.3
IBU: 64
Batch size: 5.5 gallons

Grains:
14lbs Rahr 2-row 93.33%
8oz Munich 20L 3.33%
8oz Carapils 3.33%

Hops:
1oz Chinook 11.5%AA 60min 38 IBU
3oz Galaxy 11%AA 0min (20 whirlpool) 26 IBU
2oz Galaxy Dry Hop 7 days
1oz Centennial Dry Hop 7 days

Mash at 150F for 75min, double even split batch sparge.

Yeast: 3rd generation Scottish Ale 1728

Water Profile:

I have been using my tap water with a campden tablet, this is the best data I could find:

Ca+2: 59ppm
Mg+2: 7ppm
Na+: 30ppm
Cl-: 28ppm
SO4-2: 30ppm
Alkalinity: 115ppm HCO3
pH: 8

What adjustments should I make to that to showcase the hops?

Thanks!!
 
Wanted to comment on this because of the title. Most of my beers have been whirlpool hopped lately, trying to perfect the process on my system. But there's not much to say. The recipe and hop schedule are solid. Things you may want to play with as you go forward are whirlpooling temperatures and may be also adding some late boil hop additions. For now, I'd say brew it as is and report back.
 
I'd say before you start playing with water profiles and additions, think about using a yeast that will attenuate more. A finishing gravity of 1.015 is a little high for a hop showcase like you're going for. Maybe try a clean American ale strain or add some table sugar or dextrose and remove some of the base malt - making sure to keep everything still at the same levels - abv, IBUs, etc. When I think of an IPA I try to keep the malt on the lighter side and get it to dry out to 1.012 or 1.011. I think it should just be enough to provide a stage for the hops to play from. Just my two cents.

As far as actually whirl pooling the hops - I've found that knocking the temp down to 180F then tossing in the hops gets the best flavor and aromas. I usually let the whirlpool go at 180F for about 20-40 mins and then turn the chilling water back on. I also cover my kettle during this process. Some people would probably say that's a bad idea, but it's worked well for me. No DMS.
 
I'd say before you start playing with water profiles and additions, think about using a yeast that will attenuate more.
Dunno. I think 1728 is fine yeast for IPA's. With a little coaxing, it will go past the 75% attenuation Wyeast rates it for. Ferment on the low side and ramp up as it finishes and you'll be good.

YEAST STRAIN: 1728 | Scottish Ale™

Our Scottish ale strain is ideally suited for the strong, malty ales of Scotland. This strain is very versatile, and is often used as a “House” strain as it ferments neutral and clean. Higher fermentation temperatures will result in an increased ester profile.
 
Well it looks like all my LHBS' are out of Galaxy, thinking of subbing with Moetueka (sp?). Any thoughts or should I go with a combo of American hops? Maybe a Centennial-Chinook-Cascade blend?

I dropped the 2-row to 13 pounds and I'm going to add 8oz of Dextrose for attenuation and 2oz of acidulated malt (to bring my mash ph down a bit).
 
Prolly the closest would be Nelson Sauvin, if they have it.

Personally, in a IPA with a 1.063 gravity I woundn't bother using dextrose. May be for a IIPA, but for that gravity, I can get plenty of fermentablity with a lower (148 degree) mash temperature. If anything, I'd dump the Carapils and sub in flaked barley or wheat. But that's just personal preference.
 
Brewed this up today. Significantly modified the recipe but I think it came out okay, except for being low on my preboil and finished volumes.

OG 1.065

13lbs Rahr 2-row
8oz Munich 20L (Breiss Aromatic)
8oz Carapils
2oz Acidulated
10oz Dextrose

75min boil

1oz 12.1% Chinook for 40 IBUs at 60

1oz each Citra, Centennial, Nelson Sauvin, and a half ounce of Chinook in the whirlpool with a 20 min rest.

Same thing for the dry hop after primary.

Color and flavor are AMAZING. Probably one of the best beers I've made yet!!

I'll be pitching the yeast tomorrow morning. Cheers!
 
Forgot to mention - only water additions I did were a campden tablet and 15ml of lactic acid to drop my pH as calculates to 5.4. Worked great!!
 
Just took a mid-fermentation sample. After 4 days with an ambient temp of 60, it's at 1.032. The color is spot on. Nice and pale.

The aroma and flavors though, are INCREDIBLE. All sorts of tropical fruit, citrus, a touch of pine, and the bitterness is awesome.

I'm hoping to dry this one out to under 1.015 before dry-hopping and kegging.

Brew this beer! You'll love it!!!



image-1951962760.jpg
 
Wow, this sucker attenuated all the way down to 1.010-11!!! Comes out to 7.2%. Love that 3rd generation 1728 from my local brewery!

Cold crashing begins today, will transfer to secondary tomorrow and dry hop with 1oz each Centennial, Citra, and Nelson, and .5oz Chinook.

Cheers!

image-4032789754.jpg
 
Transferred to secondary and dry hopped yesterday. Surprisingly the yeast cake was very small, only about 1 quart of yeast (barely filled two pint sized mason jars,)

Covered the top of the secondary with a blanket of CO2 and let her sit and come back up to 70, will reduce back to the mid 50's once I transfer my pumpkin beer to secondary today.
 
I let it sit without heat, open to the air, for about 20-30 minutes. I'm not sure on the actual temps, but I'm pretty sure it stays hot enough to kill any nasties that may land in it. A quick chill and a big yeast pitch help with keeping the wort bacteria-free too.
 

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