What's this in my beer i see?

[boxofjibboo]

Hey beer gurus! Another beginner question. I bottled my beer last Friday and check the bottles to see if any noticeable carbonation is there yet. When looking at my brews today I notice a light layer of yeast and or sugar on the bottom of my bottle. Just want to see what the pros say it is.





This is the layer on the bottom.





Here is it floating around.

Now with this last photo there are bubbles from me kind of shaking it around. Am I oxygenizing my beer? And is this bad?





Thanks for commenting.

 

[BrewerinBR]

That is yeast and it is necessary for carbonation. Shaking it is not a good idea, swirling it gently will not hurt, or just turn it upside down to get that yeast back into suspension will help with carbonation. The best thing to do is to leave it alone for 21 days (yes I know its hard) but that is the best!

 

[Balue]

Normal bottle conditioning, just some yeast trub from carbing process. Just like in primary it will settle and pack once a carbed up and chilled properly

 

[boxofjibboo]

So is this when I only want to poor 3/4 of my beer in a glass and dispose of the last bit when finally ready to drink?

 

[bkorver]

You can get more than 3/4 out of it if you pour it right. You'll see... just go slow and pour at eye level so you can see when you are getting close to the trub.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

what about filtering the beer before bottling ? will that remove this

 

[TomSD]

You can't remove it, it is a result of the yeast carbonating your beer. Well you could remove it but you would end up with flat beer or you would have to force carb like in a keg.

 

[SlimeyBooger]

If you leave them in the fridge for a few days, the trub will get fairly compact at the base of the bottle. Then poor nice and slowly, and use the part of the bottle at the base of the neck (shoulder?) to catch any loose trub.

 

[D_Ranged_Eskimo]

So is this when I only want to poor 3/4 of my beer in a glass and dispose of the last bit when finally ready to drink?

Yes. Pour it somewhat slow and you can watch for the trub to start heading towards the mouth of the bottle. When it gets close, just quit pouring and you're good to go.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

how do you get cystal clear beer carbed without all the yeast or sugar ?

 

[TomSD]

Force carb the beer instead of having the yeast do it. Most commonly seen in kegging setups but you could also do it in growlers or bottles with the right equipment. Can't see doing it in anything but a keg being feasible though. Once it is in a keg you could fill growlers or bottles for transporting/gifting/competition.

 

[D_Ranged_Eskimo]

how do you get cystal clear beer carbed without all the yeast or sugar ?

Kegging.

You can use finning agents like gelatin to rid the beer of most of the yeast in suspension and force carb the beer in the keg. You can then bottle off of the keg if you still want to bottle, and they are carbed with no trub or bottle fermenation.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

i like the idea of force carb.. once the keg is carbed you then bottle the beer after that ? wouln't there be head and foam and whats the shelf life after you cap it ?

 

[TomSD]

You have to take precautions when filling it to keep as much CO2 in solution as possible and do reduce the risk of oxidation but it is very doable. A beer gun is one way to do it but I do it just fine with much less. There are a few threads out there about bottling from a keg.

As for how long it keeps I guess it depends on how well you bottle it. Others have posted good long term storage but I bottle mine to drink so have never tried storing it.

 

[Naptown]

That beer has a serious quality issue and you should not consume it.

I specialize in getting rid of similar beer if you mail it to me.

 

[boxofjibboo]

By swirling it around more will this increase conditioning time?

 

[sanibel14]

Definitely soul sucking worm excrement.

 

[Hockeyhunter99]

after a few bottles you will learn how to pour a homebrew without sediment. let them sit, pour slowly and carefully to maximize head and look into the bottle and stop before the sediment hits the glass. this will take practice. the more you brew the better and easier it gets.

 

[Bernie Brewer]

i like the idea of force carb.. once the keg is carbed you then bottle the beer after that ? wouln't there be head and foam and whats the shelf life after you cap it ?

If you are going to keg your beer, there is no need to bottle it. You just walk to the tap and pull yourself a pint.

 

[tslayer]

Be proud of it! It is a living all natural beer that you created!

Many excellent craft brews have yeast in the bottom of the bottle.

You can reduce the amount greatly by cold crashing your next batch. Will still have plenty of yeast to carb the bottles.

 

[EdawgTheMighty]

Or just drink it! It won't hurt you in anyway. In fact it does have some type of vitamins in it if I recall correctly.

 

[crazyseany]

Looks like sea monkeys to me....

If you drink it...it well improve the effects and cook times of a Dutch Oven...

I would think swirling it after a couple of days might decrease carb time...probably not by much..leave it sit at least 2 weeks and then refrigerate some for 2 days...pour to the shoulder and be careful...you'll only leave a 1/4 inch I in bottom of bottle....my swmbo just dumps it all in her glass....mmmmmm chunky beer....

 

[AdamPag]

Its perfectly normal. Refrain from shaking it, it'll settle to the bottom over the course of 3 weeks. Learn to shoulder your beer when you pour to prevent the trub from getting into your glass, it changes the flavor slightly (if your palette can detect that), however brewers yeast is particularly good for you. It contains a bunch of compounds our bodies use very well that we dont normally have in our diets.

Just an advance warning, when you 1st start drinking homebrews, its not uncommon to have a little stomach ache or crazy bad gas. The brewers yeast is foreign to your digestive system and you dont yet have the probiotics to handle it. Essentially , you can get a slight yeast infection in your stomach while you develop the bacteria to take care of the yeast. women should be especially careful

 

[carltjones]

It's definitely Sea Monkeys. Mail a case to me and I'll help set them free.

Yeast is good for you and it will settle in a couple weeks. I've got a filter for cider and wine and it's more trouble than it's worth.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

how do the BMC boys do it then ? or how do even microbreweries do it without sediment ? as in bottleing and canning without sediment

 

[Balue]

how do the BMC boys do it then ? or how do even microbreweries do it without sediment ? as in bottleing and canning without sediment

They bottle filtered beer that is already conditioned and carbed.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

can we do this as a home brewer ?

 

[Homercidal]

can we do this as a home brewer ?

YES! It's called KEGGING and FILTERING!

Both are viable options for homebrewers, although many, many of us don't care if we get a bit of sediment in the bottle as it's easy to be careful when pouring and we have developed methods of reducing the amount to begin with.

You're probably talking about $300+ to get a basic kegging setup and filter.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

well yes i know kegging and filtering.. but what about bottleing

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

well yes i know kegging and filtering.. but what about bottleing

after you keg and force carb, you can bottle from the keg. i think it was covered earlier in this thread.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

yes i was just wondering how say microbreweries do it to get clear beer to sell at the liquour stores compared to home brew.. like what technology they were using..

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

yes i was just wondering how say microbreweries do it to get clear beer to sell at the liquour stores compared to home brew.. like what technology they were using..

they're filtering and then force carbing in large vessels. then the cold, carbed beer is sent to a machine which fills the bottles and caps them immediately. a simple google search will net you images and an explanation of the various processes breweries use to bottle force carbed beer.

 

[CrankyBeaverBrewery]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/we-no-need-no-stinking-beer-gun-24678/

i found this link that is what i think i will have to go about doing..

 

[irunxcjm]

If you let it condition properly, even bottles with yeast in it can be really clear. There are many examples on the photo board.

 

[unionrdr]

A high flocculation yeast,a good process,& patience will get clear bottled beer.There are no short cuts in home brewing. Let the beer reach FG in primary. Then give it another 3-7 days to settle out clear or slightly misty. Then bottle. I've had those slightly misty beers clear in a couple days. they're at there best,on average,at 4-5 weeks. Then 1 to 2 weeks fridge time to compact the yeast trub on the bottom & get thicker head & longer lasting carbonation.

 

[D_Ranged_Eskimo]

A high flocculation yeast,a good process,& patience will get clear bottled beer.There are no short cuts in home brewing. Let the beer reach FG in primary. Then give it another 3-7 days to settle out clear or slightly misty. Then bottle. I've had those slightly misty beers clear in a couple days. they're at there best,on average,at 4-5 weeks. Then 1 to 2 weeks fridge time to compact the yeast trub on the bottom & get thicker head & longer lasting carbonation.

This right here. I've had bottles that have come out looking as clear as a commercial filtered beer after sitting in the fridge for a few weeks.

You can also cold crash your primary close to 32 degrees F for 2-3 days to clear your beer even more before you rack it to bottle.