what's the best false bottom for 10 gallon round cooler?

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twd000

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I have gotten by with a stainless braid in the 10-gallon Rubbermaid cooler for several years now, but ready to upgrade to a false bottom to preclude the chance of any more stuck/slow sparges.

Looking for recommendations on which one to buy. Are they all designed the same? Stainless sheet with a bunch of holes and a 3/8" barb? Are some made with different hole patterns, or sloping floor?
 
There are various false bottoms on the market for 10 gallon coolers:

1.) Perforated Domed Stainless False Bottom.

2.) Slotted domed stainless steel false bottom.

3.) Perforated Domed Stainless False Bottom

Most have the siphon hole in the middle.

I don't know how big the Blichmann 7.5g pot false bottom is, or if it would fit in a 10 gallon cooler (would have to be ~12"), but they have "louvered button" design.

Which one is the best in terms of fluid dynamics? I can't answer that, but most believe they are the best according to their marketing materials. I believe John Palmer devotes a section to this in 'How to Brew.'

My experience tells me that they all work well. I have used both the slotted and perforated domed bottoms.

There is also the option for you to DIY and drill, slot or punch out a 12" pizza pan with your own pattern.

The bottom line is that they will all work if they are setup properly. You'll want to make sure that the false bottom sits flat on the bottom of the cooler such that it is sealed by the grain and the grain can't get under it. Sometimes false bottoms connected to the valve with a pipe have trouble sitting flat.

I know both styles work equally well for batch sparging as well as fly sparging, though they do require more vorlauf than a braid.
 
you could also make one out a stainless pizza pan which someone I know did and it works great. I took the lazzy route, forked out the cash and bought one from NothernBrewer.
 
Ok sounds like they are all similar with the exception of the slotted design. Not interested in DIY this project. Can I use tubing from the hardware store to connect to the elbow ? Looks like some have a hard-plumbed stainless connection instead


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Ok sounds like they are all similar with the exception of the slotted design. Not interested in DIY this project. Can I use tubing from the hardware store to connect to the elbow ? Looks like some have a hard-plumbed stainless connection instead


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Ya you can use vinyl tubing, just get the high temp braided kind, I believe there rated up to 212*. Tubing is easier to connect and disconnect then having it "hard plumbed". Also there is no need for hose clamps so its even easier to remove for cleaning.
 
I thought about getting a premade false bottom for my 10 gallon cooler when I was setting mine up, but it wasn't in the budget at the time. I made a manifold out of cpvc andd never looked back. My efficiency is usually over 85% and I have never had a stuck sparge. Just my two cents.
 
I use a bazooka tube with a smaller diameter finer screen tube inside of that running the full length...this ahs allowed me to filter out all of the grain and still never even a hint of stuck sparge and I recirculate through my herms with a 12L per minute pump at full blast.... my efficiency has been as high as 87% with this but I'm forever tweaking and adjusting my methods.

this is really a thread for the "equipment and sanitation" section BTW...
 
I use a bazooka tube with a smaller diameter finer screen tube inside of that running the full length...this ahs allowed me to filter out all of the grain and still never even a hint of stuck sparge and I recirculate through my herms with a 12L per minute pump at full blast.... my efficiency has been as high as 87% with this but I'm forever tweaking and adjusting my methods.

this is really a thread for the "equipment and sanitation" section BTW...

Could you please elaborate on what you used and method of creating the dual tube? I found a 12" bazooka tube that will pair with my 1/2" connection, however what do you recommend for the internal smaller screen? Does that screen also connect to the screw or just simply sit within the main tube? Thanks!
 
Could you please elaborate on what you used and method of creating the dual tube? I found a 12" bazooka tube that will pair with my 1/2" connection, however what do you recommend for the internal smaller screen? Does that screen also connect to the screw or just simply sit within the main tube? Thanks!

my braided line does slip inside a 1/2 connection and the bazooka slips around the outside of the same 1/2 connection..
I use the braided line from a new toilet supply line I cut and removed the inner hose from.

Ill try to post a pic tomorrow.
 
Could you please elaborate on what you used and method of creating the dual tube? I found a 12" bazooka tube that will pair with my 1/2" connection, however what do you recommend for the internal smaller screen? Does that screen also connect to the screw or just simply sit within the main tube? Thanks!

rather than post these pics multiple times I have just added them to the end of my build thread here,

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/facelift-my-control-panel-497593/index9.html#post6709970
let me know if you have anymore questions but everything is pressure fit and comes apart easily to clean after each use.
 
I purchased my false bottom from adventures in home brew and love it. It's a slotted dome design and is hard lined but the nice part is the connection to the ball valve on this inside is a compression fitting. I am able to get a fine crush on my grain and have not had a stuck sparge yet. Highly recommended!
 

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