What is the impact of a jump in efficiency?

[bigringking]

After my last batch efficiency in the 60s, I decided I needed to make some changes to increase my brewhouse efficiency. So I started reading the sticky on improving efficiency - yes, all 45 pages of it - and now am an efficiency pro....in theory. Haven't put it into practice yet. Which leads to my question. After I achieve this monumental jump in efficiency, how will my finished beer be affected.

Because I don't really know what my 'new' efficiency will be, I'd *like* to just do my recipe as usual - targeting a 68% efficiency - and see what the impact of the change is, if any. What is the real difference in a beer (say a pale ale) designed to hit an OG of,say, 1.060 but actually hits 1.072? Will the flavor be affected, and how, if so? I presume the hop/malt balance will be different, and further presume that will tend to be too malty.

I don't know how big of a jump I'll be able to make initially, but am slightly concerned what would happen if I got a jump of say 10%. For what it is worth, I was planning on doing a SMaSH with an OG of around 1.065 and maybe around 50 IBUs.

 

[RM-MN]

The difference will be in the amount of alcohol produced. That can be an unbalanced beer but the ones that I made as I figured out just what my efficiency was turned out to be quite drinkable. I just had to be aware of how much more potent they were.

 

[IslandLizard]

If most deficiency is found in the mash/lauter system and/or wort losses, I would estimate a 10-15% higher efficiency with the new setup, and build/adjust your recipe on that. Sparge until you get your preboil gravity. You can do that with batch sparging too. If you undershoot your estimate, live with the slightly smaller batch, and keep looking for improvements. If you overshoot, all the better. You could boil down the extra wort and use it for starters, or make a larger batch and ferment the excess in a small fermentor, or just live with a bigger beer.

Calculate your actual efficiency and plug into your recipe calculator for next time, and keep an eye on it.

When you're at 60%, chances are wort losses and a too coarse malt crush are your biggest factors.

 

[bigringking]

When you're at 60%, chances are wort losses and a too coarse malt crush are your biggest factors.

Malt crush is what I think is my biggest problem. I've tightened up the gap on my mill to as close to .028 as I can. The rollers are not perfectly concentric on the axle so the gap changes some as they spin. I'm also going to make a more concerted effort at mash pH and stirring, both at dough in and upon sparging. Finally I'm taking Denny's advice and sparging with 185*F+ water with only one sparge (for now). We'll see.

I accept your notion of accepting if the batch is a little smaller/larger than planned and just using that info for the next time. My main goal is to see some sort of improvement.

As to the notion of the impact on the beer - I suppose as long as the jump isn't too great, the beer should be about the same - albeit perhaps a little stronger. I was just worried that the flavor might change 'significantly' whatever that means.

 

[IslandLizard]

For best lauter efficiency the dead space in your mash tun should be as small as possible.

For best batch sparge efficiency use 2 sparges of equal volume and lauter/drain until dry. Attaching a 2 foot hose to your mash tun valve helps to siphon the wort out, creating suction.

Make sure that during sparging the grist temp itself does not exceed 170°F, AND its pH remains under 6 to avoid tanning extraction. Adding a small amount (a few drops) of lactic or phosphoric acid to your sparge water will put you there. How many "drops" depends on the mineral composition of your sparge water.

Gauge your mill at both extremes (min/max) of the "gap width." Aim at a decent average, perhaps .030"/.034", and inspect your crush. For small kernel grain, like wheat and rye, and flaked goods, set to an average of 0.024"-0.026", or most will fall through uncrushed.

BIAB brewers get their huge efficiency from the extra fine crush the filter bag allows.
For regular mash tun systems 80-85% efficiency is very attainable. That's what I get with my cooler mash tun and 2 batch sparges. A good 2-3 minute stir when mashing in, right before lautering and after adding each round of sparge water is all that's needed. And a correct mash temp of course.

 

[seatazzz]

I just jumped from 65-70% to over 80% by installing a false bottom over my bazooka in my mash tun. It doesn't fit perfectly but keeps the bazooka from getting squished and stalling out the drain/sparge. That and using a digital thermometer (corded w/probe) all through the mash to closely monitor the temperature is probably what did it for me. Can't wait to see how the brew I just did (Caribou Slobber) turns out and want to brew again soon!!

 

[beergolf]

What is the real difference in a beer (say a pale ale) designed to hit an OG of,say, 1.060 but actually hits 1.072? Will the flavor be affected, and how, if so? I presume the hop/malt balance will be different, and further presume that will tend to be too malty.

The difference is that the BU:GU ratio will be changed. So yes the beer will not be the same. You would need more hops to get the same ratio.

Instead of chasing efficiency, you are better off trying for a consistent efficiency. I could get better efficiency if I wanted but I set my mill to give me 75% and I am perfectly happy with that. I know that I always hit it within a point or two every time. So when I write a recipe, I know exactly what to expect. If I got 65% one time and 85% the next then I would have no idea of what to expect.

Pick an efficiency you like and then strive to hit it every time.

 

[bigringking]

The difference is that the BU:GU ratio will be changed. So yes the beer will not be the same. You would need more hops to get the same ratio.

This is one of the things I considered as the most likely flavor impact. I guess I can, after calculating actual efficiency of the mash/lauter, change my hop additions based on that to preserve the bittering units of the recipe.

Instead of chasing efficiency, you are better off trying for a consistent efficiency. I could get better efficiency if I wanted but I set my mill to give me 75% and I am perfectly happy with that. I know that I always hit it within a point or two every time. So when I write a recipe, I know exactly what to expect. If I got 65% one time and 85% the next then I would have no idea of what to expect.

Pick an efficiency you like and then strive to hit it every time.

Sure. I get this. But I know there is more efficiency in there, and I 'm not happy leaving it there. I don't plan on chasing 85+% but I do know I can get more out of the grains. If I could achieve up to 75% in the next few brews by putting to use some of the things I picked up, then I'll be happy with that, and I'll be happy to be consistent at that.

 

[Morrey]

Beergolf and I discussed (some time back) that it is far better to "chase consistency" rather than chase an arbitrary efficiency number. Even if said efficiency is not boastfully high, if you hit that same number brew after brew, you'll be a superior brewer.

This is just my personal finding, but I never found that consistency when I was buying pre-milled grains from various sources. Only when I bought my own mill and dialed in my grind did my efficiency become predictably consistent. Of course this is assuming all of your other brewing processes are identical brew after brew.

Now that I mill my own grains, I have brewed 7 beers (average not high gravity) in a row that are less than +/- .2%. Like beergolf says, chase consistency.