What is my PH supposed to be?

[Twotaureanbrewing]

So far I have only brewed IPAs. One of the first was Hop Stoopid, seemed easy and found the recipe in a published book. The recipe called for 2 tbls of gypsum to the strike water. I assumed it had to do with PH, since then I have done the same on every other recipe. Most of my brews have turned out well so I continued with the gypsum.
Now almost 10 brew sessions in I have improved in a lot of other areas but water. I have decent city water, have looked at the report on the town website but it seems to lack all the important info critical to brewing. It also doesnt list a PH. I've started reading Mitch Steeles book IPA and the evolution, its really interesting and has emphasis on how important water is.

So heres my questions

1. What should the PH of my starting/strike water be?

2. What should the PH of the mash be?

3. Why didn't PH strip change when I tested the mash water?

Ive tried using the PH strips from my LHBS. PH of tap water seems to be 7.4
Ive had trouble checking the mash. I drained a little mash water into a small glass and tried using the strip, but it didnt appear to change at all, just stayed white. I left it in the mash water for over 1 minute. Why didn't the strip change color?

I have done my last 2 brews at my house, previously had brewed at a friends 2 towns away. Don't know if technique has gotten better(efficiency has) but theres a noted difference in clarity. The beer is so clear.

I know theres PH stabilizer but would rather not put chemicals or salts or whatever is in there to stabilize.

water report, I didnt see much useful info included

http://www.villageoflombard.org/DocumentCenter/View/14935

 

[douglasbarbin]

1. What should the PH of my starting/strike water be?

2. What should the PH of the mash be?

3. Why didn't PH strip change when I tested the mash water?

1. Doesn't matter. We are only interested in the pH in the mash and the pH going into the kettle.

2. It depends on the style, but a general range is 5.2 - 5.6, with the higher pH being more appropriate for darker styles.

3. I can't say why it didn't change, but I can tell you that the pH strips are not accurate enough for brewing. You really need a pH meter to get a proper measurement, even if it's just a cheap one. You can also use a tool like Bru'N Water to estimate what your pH will be. That's the one I use, but there are others as well.


EDIT: You also need a proper water report. Ward Labs does them cheaply. The water report you linked does not have values for more of the ions that are of interest to brewers.

 

[jdauria]

You want your mash PH to be between 5.2 and 5.5, higher end fine for darker beers, lower for lighter.

PH of your starting water doesn't really matter, it's what's in your water than matters. If it's high in chloride, then making a hoppy beer won't be easy.

PH strips are not very accurate, but you want to take your reading after at least 20 minutes of your mash and at ROOM TEMP...you need to cool the sample. Most strips have a +/- differential that need to factor in to. A pH meter would be better.

You should try using a brewing water calculator like Bru'N Water, enter your town's water info and then you pick the style you are aiming for and then can figure out what your brewing salt additions should be.

Another option is the Gordon Strong method...start with RO or distilled water, adjust the water with phosphoric acid (.25 tsp for every 5 gallons used) to get it to a 5.5 PH. Mash only the base malts adding crystal and dark malts at vorlauf. Add add 1 tsp of gypsum per every 5 gallons of mash water to hoppy beers, 1 tsp per 5 gallons of mash water of calcium chloride to malty beers...and for balanced beers 1/2 tsp of each. This will get your mash pH in the proper range all the time and is the method I use.

 

[stpug]

So far I have only brewed IPAs. One of the first was Hop Stoopid, seemed easy and found the recipe in a published book. The recipe called for 2 tbls of gypsum to the strike water. I assumed it had to do with PH, since then I have done the same on every other recipe. Most of my brews have turned out well so I continued with the gypsum

I guess it's fortunate that you've only brewed IPAs because the recommendation of 2 Tblsp per (assumed) 5 gallon batch is a lot of sulfate and will only work well with IPAs. If you put that much gypsum in a cream ale you'd be screwed

Bru'n Water website and spreadsheet give a detailed (but boiled-down) explanation of the importance of water, minerals, salts, ions, pH, and alkalinity. Most times we're concerned with alkalinity and in turn the pH falls within a certain range. Check out the website and read it through. Tackle 1/4 of it first and digest it; and then keep coming back for the other fourths until you've read it all through. Then grab the spreadsheet and attempt to implement what you've learned. Pay attention to the potential water profiles you can match, specifically the color profiles (malty/balanced/bitter, pale ale, etc) because those are an excellent starting point for formulating recipes.

 

[Twotaureanbrewing]

Thanks guys for the info and references. I will def read over that site.

I've stuck with IPAs because they are forgiving and easier to make, or so Im told. I feel I really want to get a solid base and understanding of one style, and my brew setup, before moving on to another. The next style I want to brew is a stout.

Thanks again!

 

[stpug]

Thanks guys for the info and references. I will def read over that site.

I've stuck with IPAs because they are forgiving and easier to make, or so Im told. I feel I really want to get a solid base and understanding of one style, and my brew setup, before moving on to another. The next style I want to brew is a stout.

Thanks again!

Yes, IPAs are easy and forgiving - as long as you use plenty of hops . A fun beer to brew for sure, and rewarding too!

Stout territory would not be served very well by gypsum, quite the opposite, so definitely read about what and why you would use various water treatments for different styles.