What is my hydrometer saying?

[O-Ale-Yeah]

Forgive me, I'm brand new to brewing. I'm not sure what this means.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Unless your hydrometer specifically says otherwise, read the bottom of the meniscus.

I'd read that at 1.010.

 

[IslandLizard]

1.012. Correction: 1.010
'Read' the bottom of the meniscus.

Have you calibrated it with distilled water? I think most tap water will suffice too. Just have it at the 'calibration temp' that's usually printed on the bottom of the paper scale. 60°F is most common, some are 68°F.

 

[IslandLizard]

Forgive me, I'm brand new to brewing.

You're not that brand new:

_______________
1st brew is gone. 2nd brew is in bottles. 3rd brew is in the fermenter.

Welcome to the hydrometer, though!

 

[Lefou]

The hydrometer indicates you have beer. Not too dry, not too sweet and looks like a golden wheat.
If that's the final gravity you expected the next step is carbing. Enjoy.

 

[O-Ale-Yeah]

1.012. Correction: 1.010
'Read' the bottom of the meniscus.

Have you calibrated it with distilled water? I think most tap water will suffice too. Just have it at the 'calibration temp' that's usually printed on the bottom of the paper scale. 60°F is most common, some are 68°F.

I haven't. I'll do that. Thanks.

 

[O-Ale-Yeah]

The hydrometer indicates you have beer. Not too dry, not too sweet and looks like a golden wheat.
If that's the final gravity you expected the next step is carbing. Enjoy.

Is the OG the only way to know what the AVB is?

 

[O-Ale-Yeah]

You're not that brand new:

Welcome to the hydrometer, though!

Yeah, maybe not. This is my 3rd brew. I think I need to switch to a new yeast. I just bottled 90 bottles of banana beer. I'm not really a fan of bananas.

 

[Pkrd]

Is the OG the only way to know what the AVB is?

It's the only practical way for a homebrewer.

 

[tgolanos]

Is the OG the only way to know what the AVB is?

(OG - FG) x 131 = approximate ABV. It's not the most accurate formula, but it'll get you damn close and it's easy to remember.

If you ever forget to take an OG reading, plug your recipe into an online recipe-builder. You'll be able to get a decent estimate of what it was.

 

[O-Ale-Yeah]

Ok thanks. I was really confused looking at the hydrometer post fermentation. I had the crazy idea that it was telling me my AVB. Ok my OG was 1.06 and FG is 1.01 so .05 X 131 = 6.5 AVB. Did I understand that correctly?

 

[RPh_Guy]

Yeah close enough.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/

 

[bracconiere]

I'd have to say, i thought this was a troll thread at first....The first pic shows a hydrometer clearly reading "BEER"...and someone asking what it meant....lol

 

[Jayjay1976]

Its saying YOU GOT BEEER!! What exactly it is indicating is unimportant, there will be plenty of time later on to worry about the actual nummers. So long as its steady for three days in a row you can bottle it without worry. Welcome to the madness that is home brewing.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Whoa hang on. The actual numbers do matter when bottle conditioning. If the FG is unreasonably high when bottling, you may have risk of explosions.

(It's probably not unreasonably high in this case. Just making a point.)

 

[IslandLizard]

Ok my OG was 1.06 and FG is 1.01

Just dotting the i's... We brewers typically note specific gravity (SG) in 3 decimals, so 1.060 and 1.010 resp.

Also be aware, if you measure a carbonated sample, the reading will not be correct, due to the buoyancy of CO2. You can let it sit for an hour or so to degas. Or just shake or stir the sample a bit or invert a few times in your hydrometer jar (without the hydrometer in it of course). It will foam up, let it settle and do again a little later until there's no more foaming. Then drop the hydrometer in it. Spin it to dislodge any clinging bubbles.

If you find the hydrometer not to read 1.000 in plain (or distilled) water at its calibration temp, make a note of the difference and subtract or add to any sample you measure. Say it reads 1.002 at calibration, then it reads 2 points high. Just subtract those 2 points from a reading. If it reads 1.046, it's really 1.044.

When you encounter unexpected readings, recheck calibration. Sometimes the paper sleeve inside slides, or something else is happening.

Notes:

• They are extremely fragile instruments, very thin glass, so handle with utter care.
• They tend to roll when placed upon a horizontal surface and drop to the ground or in the sink, etc.
• Do not shake them down to 'dry.' That clinging drop won't throw off a reading in a 3 oz. sample.
• Make sure the bottom of the storage sleeve is solid. If it's a stopper, tape it down to the sleeve. I'm not kidding.
• Use a stable test jar. The narrower-footed ones tend to tip over when you look at them. I use a cheap 2-piece plastic test jar, the relatively wide and stable bottom screws off for cleaning.
• Don't return the sample. Drink it, it's giving you a decent early feedback of what to expect.

Last but not least, here's our official broken hydrometer compendium.

 

[O-Ale-Yeah]

Thanks IslandLizard for the good info.

 

[O-Ale-Yeah]

I'd have to say, i thought this was a troll thread at first....The first pic shows a hydrometer clearly reading "BEER"...and someone asking what it meant....lol

Lol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.

 

[Qhrumphf]

If you find the hydrometer not to read 1.000 in plain (or distilled) water at its calibration temp, make a note of the difference and subtract or add to any sample you measure. Say it reads 1.002 at calibration, then it reads 2 points high. Just subtract those 2 points from a reading. If it reads 1.046, it's really 1.044.

One note on this.

If the paper slip inside has shifted, yes.

If there's something else going on (say part of the glass chipped/shaved off or something), the whole scale could be off and calibration may not be so easy.

I would check TWO solutions (at reference temp). One to see if distilled water reads 1.000. I'd also make a 10% by weight solution of sucrose (ie table sugar) in distilled water (ie 10 grams table sugar to 90 grams of distilled water). That should read 1.040.

Two point calibration > single point.

If they're both correct, gravy. If they're both off by the same measure, easy, just add/subtract the differential. If one is off but the other isn't you could either calculate the slope from here on out or just replace it.

 

[IslandLizard]

Lol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.

Other than the specific gravity (SG) and Brix scales the other scales are pretty useless and confusing. The alcohol scale is meant for wine (or cider) as they typically ferment out to 0.995-1.000 and give you an indication of the alcohol potential when you're measuring their OG.

 

[IslandLizard]

One note on this.

If the paper slip inside has shifted, yes.

If there's something else going on (say part of the glass chipped/shaved off or something), the whole scale could be off and calibration may not be so easy.

I would check TWO solutions (at reference temp). One to see if distilled water reads 1.000. I'd also make a 10% by weight solution of sucrose (ie table sugar) in distilled water (ie 10 grams table sugar to 90 grams of distilled water). That should read 1.040.

Two point calibration > single point.

If they're both correct, gravy. If they're both off by the same measure, easy, just add/subtract the differential. If one is off but the other isn't you could either calculate the slope from here on out or just replace it.

Absolutely!

I didn't want to go that deep, but you outlined the best way to actually calibrate them.

 

[Qhrumphf]

You can somewhat reverse engineer an approximate OG if you have both a refractometer and hydrometer. I don't know the formula offhand, but there is a formula to approximate hydrometer FG using OG and (inaccurate due to presence of alcohol) refractometer FG. Just solve the algebra in reverse.

And direct measurement of ABV is out of reach of most craft brewers, not just homebrewers. Samples have to be sent out to a lab. There are devices similar to a hydrometer for spirits but if I understand/recall correctly they don't read at all accurately for beer (or wine/mead/cider for that matter, a dry sack mead or dry fortified wine may be the only ones). Never used one though so take that for what it's worth.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Just solve the algebra in reverse.

Since someone brought mathematics into the discussion ...

Mathematically estimated FG can also be used to detect infections (hydrometer measured FG is lower than expected) as well as stuck fermentations measured (hydrometer measured FG is higher than expected).

Mathematical models for estimating OG and FG are generally reasonable but can be inaccurate as the models don't include mash temperature or fermentation temperature. A Fast Ferment Test can be used on a sample of the wort to 'completely ferment all fermentable sugars in a sample of wort'. Comparing the SG from a fast ferment test to the FG from the fermentation vessel can help confirm that the fermentation process is finished (rather than stuck or infected).

And friendly reminder that refractometer measurements need to be adjusted when used for brewing beer.

 

[Soulshine2]

Forgive me, I'm brand new to brewing. I'm not sure what this means.

1.010

 

[Soulshine2]

Lol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.

for further reference in term...its ABV

 

[Soulshine2]

Just dotting the i's... We brewers typically note specific gravity (SG) in 3 decimals, so 1.060 and 1.010 resp.

Also be aware, if you measure a carbonated sample, the reading will not be correct, due to the buoyancy of CO2. You can let it sit for an hour or so to degas. Or just shake or stir the sample a bit or invert a few times in your hydrometer jar (without the hydrometer in it of course). It will foam up, let it settle and do again a little later until there's no more foaming. Then drop the hydrometer in it. Spin it to dislodge any clinging bubbles.

If you find the hydrometer not to read 1.000 in plain (or distilled) water at its calibration temp, make a note of the difference and subtract or add to any sample you measure. Say it reads 1.002 at calibration, then it reads 2 points high. Just subtract those 2 points from a reading. If it reads 1.046, it's really 1.044.

When you encounter unexpected readings, recheck calibration. Sometimes the paper sleeve inside slides, or something else is happening.

Notes:

• They are extremely fragile instruments, very thin glass, so handle with utter care.
• They tend to roll when placed upon a horizontal surface and drop to the ground or in the sink, etc.
• Do not shake them down to 'dry.' That clinging drop won't throw off a reading in a 3 oz. sample.
• Make sure the bottom of the storage sleeve is solid. If it's a stopper, tape it down to the sleeve. I'm not kidding.
• Use a stable test jar. The narrower-footed ones tend to tip over when you look at them. I use a cheap 2-piece plastic test jar, the relatively wide and stable bottom screws off for cleaning.
• Don't return the sample. Drink it, it's giving you a decent early feedback of what to expect.

Last but not least, here's our official broken hydrometer compendium.

excellent description/instruction...I keep mine (all my measuring equipment...hydrometers, thermometer in their packing tubes ) and test jar in a length of foam pipe insulation inside a harbor freight hard case .

 

[balrog]

You can somewhat reverse engineer an approximate OG if you have both a refractometer and hydrometer. I don't know the formula offhand, but there is a formula to approximate hydrometer FG using OG and (inaccurate due to presence of alcohol) refractometer FG. Just solve the algebra in reverse.

From BYO article:
This is where it starts to get complicated. Fortunately Louis Bonham did a great job of researching this method for homebrewers. You need to take a reading with the refractometer as well as a hydrometer and use this equation:

ABV = [277.8851 – 277.4(SG) + 0.9956(Brix) + 0.00523(Brix2) + 0.000013(Brix3)] x (SG/0.79)

In this equation, Brix is the Brix reading of your refractometer and SG is the specific gravity reading from your hydrometer.

If you try this, it is important to take very careful readings. Degas the sample in a blender or by pouring it between two glasses until it does not foam. Make your reading at as close to 68 °F (20 °C) as possible. If your hydrometer is calibrated in Brix, use the longer formula I cited earlier to convert it to SG. This equation fits very well with the data points. Measure-ment of ABV can be made to within 0.3% if you are careful.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

ABV = [277.8851 – 277.4(SG) + 0.9956(Brix) + 0.00523(Brix2) + 0.000013(Brix3)] x (SG/0.79)

Is Brix2 == Brix * Brix? (and Brix3 == Brix * Brix * Brix)?

 

[bracconiere]

Lol, not at all. I was confused thinking the hydrometer would tell me the AVB after fermentation. I knew something was wrong because I knew I didn't brew 1% AVB beer.

to use the ABV scale on a triple scale hydrometer, remeber/write down what it says before fermenting, then subtract what it says after fermentation....that's how to use it...

 

[balrog]

Is Brix2 == Brix * Brix? (and Brix3 == Brix * Brix * Brix)?

I’d have to read the article to know, but that is likely. It’s also likely you have to correct refractometer readings for alcohol. When I get near my notes I can try a couple to see.

 

[Pkrd]

Or you can just use OG-1, which for most beers is accurate enough for homebrewers.

1.060-1 = 0.06 = 6%

 

[balrog]

Ok, a couple recent batches shows (a) Brix2/3 is indeed Brix*Brix and Brix*Brix*Brix; and (b) you do not have to correct (a la Sean Terrill) final refractometer readings for presence of alcohol. I just used the raw refractometer readings.

1.006 FG, 6.0% Refract, eqn=>6.35; OG was 1.055 so I think ABV 6.56 (kindasortaclose-ish)
1.011 FG, 6.8% Refract, eqn=>5.69; OG was 1.054 so I think ABV 5.78 (closer-ish)

 

[RPh_Guy]

Forgive me, I'm brand new to brewing. I'm not sure what this means.

^^^^^^^
See how much we all love to teach?
All kinds of questions answered you didn't even ask!

I think I need to switch to a new yeast. I just bottled 90 bottles of banana beer. I'm not really a fan of bananas.

I'd say so. Unless you're using a German weissbier strain that is intentionally used for banana, banana ester indicates the fermentation temp is too high for whatever yeast you're using.


Pick a yeast whose optimal range fits your ambient... keeping in mind that fermentation generates heat and will be warmer than ambient temp.

Or you could use some method of keeping the fermentation cool. On a limited budget, "swamp coolers" are easy and effective. Either evaporative cooling (tray of water, t-shirt over the fermenter with the bottom in the water) or a water bath with occasional ice are good methods. Monitor the temperature, either way.

Cheers

 

[O-Ale-Yeah]

^^^^^^^
See how much we all love to teach?
All kinds of questions answered you didn't even ask!


I'd say so. Unless you're using a German weissbier strain that is intentionally used for banana, banana ester indicates the fermentation temp is too high for whatever yeast you're using.


Pick a yeast whose optimal range fits your ambient... keeping in mind that fermentation generates heat and will be warmer than ambient temp.

Or you could use some method of keeping the fermentation cool. On a limited budget, "swamp coolers" are easy and effective. Either evaporative cooling (tray of water, t-shirt over the fermenter with the bottom in the water) or a water bath with occasional ice are good methods. Monitor the temperature, either way.

Cheers

Yeah, I used a hefeweizen yeast. I like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen so I thought I'd give it a shot but mine doesn't taste much like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen.

 

[bracconiere]

Or you can just use OG-1, which for most beers is accurate enough for homebrewers.

1.060-1 = 0.06 = 6%

but i add gluco to all my beers...so it'd have to be (OG-1)+2,

 

[Lefou]

Yeah, I used a hefeweizen yeast. I like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen so I thought I'd give it a shot but mine doesn't taste much like Weihenstephaner Hefeweizen.

It's a great beer when fresh but the banana should be restrained. Try to keep it cooler and go easy on the noble hops.

 

[Qhrumphf]

Hefes are an easy beer to brew but one of the hardest to master. And Weihenstephaner is the master of masters. Setting the bar very high.

 

[balrog]

Notes:They tend to roll when placed upon a horizontal surface and drop to the ground or in the sink, etc

Just re-reading this and wanted to point out to the new-ish brewer that hydrometers tend not only to roll, but to spontaneously lean into swinging cabinet doors, spontaneously secrete some nefarious frictionless substance when being carried over tile floors, and spontaneously leap with extreme prejudice toward granite countertops.

Sometimes all 3, simultaneously. Can be verified with high speed camera work.

 

[ncbrewer]

My proudest accomplishment as a brewer is that I've never broken a hydrometer in 11 years of brewing. It's nice to excel at something.

 

[Griffin495]

My proudest accomplishment as a brewer is that I've never broken a hydrometer in 11 years of brewing. It's nice to excel at something.

And you probably just jinxed yourself....