Thank you!
Best of luck to you
Congratulations!View attachment 705929
3rd place for wee heavy, and 2nd for Piwo Grodziskie.
Yesterday- Brewed a best bitter that got split in half to fermented with two different yeasts. It was nice day but a little windy, weatherman(woman) predicted a nice day. Turned gray as the boil started, 5min left light mist on on my neck, 1min left light sprinkle, 10min into chilling big azz drops and small hails, 85F and break was forming so called it early. Ran in and out between surges to finish cleaning, stopped about when I was done. Not much rain just enough to make everything real wet, did get some thunder and lightning which is not too usual around here.
Today- both halves bubbling happily.
awesome! Do you mind sharing the Piwo Grodziskie recipe?View attachment 705929
3rd place for wee heavy, and 2nd for Piwo Grodziskie.
I’ll PM you.awesome! Do you mind sharing the Piwo Grodziskie recipe?
I’ll PM you.
You’ve got it. Actually it would be funny because the locals just assume it’s mine.Me too please, promise to avoid the local comps you enter
Quick update: I didn't want to hijack this thread, so I created a new on over here. I found some better boxes.Great! Thanks.
You always seem to get great clarity in your hydro samples.Took a 2nd gravity sample of the Bohemian Pils I brewed at the city house a couple of weeks ago. Still at .014, down from .054. Bottling this weekend.
View attachment 706526
When I went from a stainless braid to a domed false bottom I was no long able to tip the mashtun to get all of the wort. I also needed to drain slower to keep from losing a vacuum and end up unable to recover all of the wort.Rebuilding the mash tun; the valve on it was crappy plastic, bulkhead was too loose, and my false bottom (on 3" legs) is what I think may have been contributing to less than optimum efficiency. Bought a new 12" domed false bottom this week, and stopped at HD on the way home today to get the hardware. Replaced the 3/4" bulkhead with a 1/2", and a solid brass ball valve to replace the crappy plastic one; but bought the wrong size MIP to barb fitting for the hose from the bottom to the bulkhead. No matter, will get another one tomorrow after brewday; I'll just tip the tun up when it's time to drain as I've done in the past. Now my bag will go all the way to the bottom of the tun, I'm losing that 3" of dead space that I'm about 98% positive kept my efficiency down. Or that's what I'm telling myself. It's also fun to build things; doing a leak test now, and it's got just a tiny one that will go away once it gets gummed up with wort. I'll provide pics when it's all done. Gonna be a double brew weekend, doing a WF lager tomorrow and some IPA on Sunday. For anyone who hasn't seen my setup before, my mash tun is a repurposed 16g blue extract barrel with a sparge arm built into the lid, wrapped in two layers of thermowrap; love that thing. I can do 10g batches in it, just choose not to, because hefting that much wet spent grain is just a bit too much. And I like variety.
I'm thinking I might be okay, since I use the ball valve to keep the flow to what the pump/bag can handle; if it starts to stick I'll just ramp down more on the valve. Since I won't have the bottom connected to the valve tomorrow, it should be okay? Only way to tell is to try....When I went from a stainless braid to a domed false bottom I was no long able to tip the mashtun to get all of the wort. I also needed to drain slower to keep from losing a vacuum and end up unable to recover all of the wort.
Glad you did the name of the first one gave me a smile.Thanks for not pointing out that I was not posting in the ‘what are you drinking’ thread. I got this. Sorry guys and gals.
If it is not hooked up seems like it should work like it was. If you lift the bag then also probably not issue with over running and losing vacuum, but if you leave the bag in place while draining then the flow will matter more. If you draw wort from below the level of your valve then you need to make sure you don't draw too fast as you get near the bottom.I'm thinking I might be okay, since I use the ball valve to keep the flow to what the pump/bag can handle; if it starts to stick I'll just ramp down more on the valve. Since I won't have the bottom connected to the valve tomorrow, it should be okay? Only way to tell is to try....
That's what I was thinking. Bag is just long enough to hit the top of the new false bottom, and I might just tighten it up a bit so it doesn't flab out all over the place (if that makes sense). I use a pump for everything, from adding the strike, lautering, to running in the sparge, recirculating, and draining. For tomorrow's brew I'm going with a lighter grain bill than I usually do (10lbs) so if things go sideways I can always heft the bag out and put the old false bottom in there. It's gonna be beer, I do know that. Thanks for the input! I'll be updating tomorrow, sure of that.If it is not hooked up seems like it should work like it was. If you lift the bag then also probably not issue with over running and losing vacuum, but if you leave the bag in place while draining then the flow will matter more. If you draw wort from below the level of your valve then you need to make sure you don't draw too fast as you get near the bottom.
I use a pump during the mash, then gravity feed into the boil kettle.
Thanks, but, to be honest, that might have as much to do with knowing how long to let the sample settle out before taking the picture as anything.You always seem to get great clarity in your hydro samples.
I suppose I should also note, if the new improved mash tun/false bottom combo works, I have a very nice 12" false bottom on 3" legs that I would be willing to part with....paid $65 for it about 1.5 years ago. Just sayin.
but i don't know why it's blue? lol
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