OP
OP
I have a pair of March 809 pumps. They've worked fine for 3 years.
Weldless brew stand.
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sudndeth
Well-Known Member
I want to finish my stand. What burners should I use, also how'd you plumb it? Any parts list for that portion is appreciated.
Thought I posted this, but had to register first. So if this repeats, that's why.
Ok, burner-buyers. If you've seen mention of the NB 210,000 BTU banjo burners priced @ approx. $44 and think that you just gotta have that - perhaps because it would seem to outshine the 100,000 BTU BG-14s carried by Agri Supply for approx. $33 - think again. I jumped on that hook and for a difference of over $30 ended up with three...BG-14s (remorse, chagrin, etc.) See, Agri Supply is accurate in that the BG-14 with a standard regulator is 100,000 BTU and NB was accurate that the 210,000 BTU burner it sells has that specification WHEN paired with the 0-30 PSI regulator that most of us would be acquiring anyway for this rig. NB omits the BG-14 reference. I'm not saying NB is deceptive, I'm saying that NB sells the BG-14 for more than I've seen Agri Supply sell them. Feel free to learn vicariously from me.
Ok, burner-buyers. If you've seen mention of the NB 210,000 BTU banjo burners priced @ approx. $44 and think that you just gotta have that - perhaps because it would seem to outshine the 100,000 BTU BG-14s carried by Agri Supply for approx. $33 - think again. I jumped on that hook and for a difference of over $30 ended up with three...BG-14s (remorse, chagrin, etc.) See, Agri Supply is accurate in that the BG-14 with a standard regulator is 100,000 BTU and NB was accurate that the 210,000 BTU burner it sells has that specification WHEN paired with the 0-30 PSI regulator that most of us would be acquiring anyway for this rig. NB omits the BG-14 reference. I'm not saying NB is deceptive, I'm saying that NB sells the BG-14 for more than I've seen Agri Supply sell them. Feel free to learn vicariously from me.
sudndeth
Well-Known Member
sudndeth
Well-Known Member
Just finished my stand for now. I have a ball valve to control the flow. Word of advice is not to crank down on the mounting bolts on the burner. I pulled some if the threads. So one now has three mounts. Still solid.
Sudndeth, et. al.
1. AIH for needles (no brand name advertised, I rc'vd Bayou Classic items) & two center-inlet chugger pumps (on sale) & associated reducers:
www.homebrewing.org/Needle-Valve-For-Propane_p_1726.html
www.homebrewing.org/Chugger-Pump-Stainless-Steel-Center_p_3193.html
2. Local big box HW store for black pipe and yellow PTFE tape.
3. Tractor Supply for a $70 30lb LPG cylinder:
www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/manc...e-cylinder-equipped-with-qcc1-opd-valve-30-lb
4. Amazon for a $32 0-40 PSI regulator & ball valve (shut off for LPG):
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033JF0GE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081LIGRY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
5. AgriSupply for 3' HP LPG hose:
http://www.agrisupply.com/High-Pressure-Hose-Assembly-Mpt-Ffl/p/36108/&sid=&eid=/
6. Various fittings:
http://www.suremarineservice.com/
1/2" Male NPT x 3/8" Flare (SAE) Brass Adapter, qty 1
3/8" Female Swivel Flare (SAE) x 3/8" Male Flare (SAE) Brass Elbow, qty 3
1/2" Male NPT x 1/4" Female NPT Brass Hex Bushing, qty 3
1/4" Male NPT x 1/4" Female NPT Brass Adapter, qty 3
1/2" Male NPT x 1/2" Female NPT Brass Adapter, qty 1
7. Heat shields/rings from Brewers Hardware:
http://www.brewershardware.com/12-Heat-Shield-Burner-Mount.html
1. AIH for needles (no brand name advertised, I rc'vd Bayou Classic items) & two center-inlet chugger pumps (on sale) & associated reducers:
www.homebrewing.org/Needle-Valve-For-Propane_p_1726.html
www.homebrewing.org/Chugger-Pump-Stainless-Steel-Center_p_3193.html
2. Local big box HW store for black pipe and yellow PTFE tape.
3. Tractor Supply for a $70 30lb LPG cylinder:
www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/manc...e-cylinder-equipped-with-qcc1-opd-valve-30-lb
4. Amazon for a $32 0-40 PSI regulator & ball valve (shut off for LPG):
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033JF0GE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081LIGRY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
5. AgriSupply for 3' HP LPG hose:
http://www.agrisupply.com/High-Pressure-Hose-Assembly-Mpt-Ffl/p/36108/&sid=&eid=/
6. Various fittings:
http://www.suremarineservice.com/
1/2" Male NPT x 3/8" Flare (SAE) Brass Adapter, qty 1
3/8" Female Swivel Flare (SAE) x 3/8" Male Flare (SAE) Brass Elbow, qty 3
1/2" Male NPT x 1/4" Female NPT Brass Hex Bushing, qty 3
1/4" Male NPT x 1/4" Female NPT Brass Adapter, qty 3
1/2" Male NPT x 1/2" Female NPT Brass Adapter, qty 1
7. Heat shields/rings from Brewers Hardware:
http://www.brewershardware.com/12-Heat-Shield-Burner-Mount.html
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Don't buy at the big box stores, it's about half the price ordering from McMaster Carr, even with shipping.
I cut mine with an $18 angle grinder that I picked up at Harbor Freight.
sudndeth
Well-Known Member
I cut mine with a miter saw with a metal blade. 
I just finished reading the thread and its awesome. I was wondering if anyone had considered possibly using stainless angles in the areas near the burners. http://www.mcmaster.com/#slotted-stainless-steel-angles/=twa2ho
I wouldn't do the whole frame obviously because that would be way too expensive or maybe just add some of the stainless corner plates attached to the frame around the burners. Just a thought
I wouldn't do the whole frame obviously because that would be way too expensive or maybe just add some of the stainless corner plates attached to the frame around the burners. Just a thought
TJMaxx: Assuming that we're discussing using the corner-braces/angles in a horizontally mounted way to serve as a platform for the keggles - and not just using them on the stand per what is in the basic design - I tried that but in my application they interfered and they were not necessary. In my build the keggles rest on the boxes built from the runs of slotted angle iron as shown in most photos in this thread. What I did differently from some of the pics was to use heat shields around the banjos to better direct the flame.
In many of the pics the banjo burners are mounted where the orifices end up helter skelter whereas I wanted mine all pointing straight out - so I bolted the heat shields to the banjo burners, then rested the shielded burners on two 72" lengths of 1/2 threaded rod that was tied down with SS zip ties. Before mounting the threaded rod I put on washers and nuts in order to be able to surround the heat shields with washers to prevent side-to-side movement - tightening the nuts once the shielded burners were put in place.
The shielded burners are uniformly mounted and I can adjust the height of the burners by raising or lowering the angle runs to which they are attached. My stand doesn't go on the road so that works nice. If ever needed I could drill holes in the heat shields and bolt those to the stand for more stability. I'll post a pic sometime.
In many of the pics the banjo burners are mounted where the orifices end up helter skelter whereas I wanted mine all pointing straight out - so I bolted the heat shields to the banjo burners, then rested the shielded burners on two 72" lengths of 1/2 threaded rod that was tied down with SS zip ties. Before mounting the threaded rod I put on washers and nuts in order to be able to surround the heat shields with washers to prevent side-to-side movement - tightening the nuts once the shielded burners were put in place.
The shielded burners are uniformly mounted and I can adjust the height of the burners by raising or lowering the angle runs to which they are attached. My stand doesn't go on the road so that works nice. If ever needed I could drill holes in the heat shields and bolt those to the stand for more stability. I'll post a pic sometime.
I'm looking at building this, mainly because (1) I need a brew stand, and (2) I'm not authorized by my significant other to spend too much on my hobby (she still views homebrew through the distorted lense of college kids half-hearted attempts at stale kit brewing 10 years ago).
I've gone through the thread though, but there hasn't been much talk about sourcing the materials from somewhere other than McMaster-Carr. For some reason, reports are McMaster-Carr won't sell to Canadians.
Has anyone built this in Canada and if so, where have you sourced your materials? I've looked at the big box stores, but the prices are a bit high. Another option is fastenal. They have a store/warehouse about 5 minutes from my house. I was looking at buying these entirely:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0952109. The gauge is thicker than the McMaster parts listed (12 GA vs. 14 GA), and I figured buying 6 should do the trick (10 ft each). Has anyone used Fastenal? Any Canadians here that have sourced this stuff for a decent price?
I've gone through the thread though, but there hasn't been much talk about sourcing the materials from somewhere other than McMaster-Carr. For some reason, reports are McMaster-Carr won't sell to Canadians.
Has anyone built this in Canada and if so, where have you sourced your materials? I've looked at the big box stores, but the prices are a bit high. Another option is fastenal. They have a store/warehouse about 5 minutes from my house. I was looking at buying these entirely:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0952109. The gauge is thicker than the McMaster parts listed (12 GA vs. 14 GA), and I figured buying 6 should do the trick (10 ft each). Has anyone used Fastenal? Any Canadians here that have sourced this stuff for a decent price?
Hauger...
That depends on the type of stand you want to build. I assume you want weldless since you are on this thread.
Check out this thread for sourcing info on the connections for Unistrut. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-weldless-build-using-strut-363128/
Uni-strut itself can be had in any HomeDepot, Lowes, or electric supply house.
That depends on the type of stand you want to build. I assume you want weldless since you are on this thread.
Check out this thread for sourcing info on the connections for Unistrut. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-weldless-build-using-strut-363128/
Uni-strut itself can be had in any HomeDepot, Lowes, or electric supply house.
Reaver, thanks for the response. I've been looking at the UniStrut ones for a while as well and thanks for the link to that thread, been reading through it to see what I can learn from it as well. Just the design of Channel Strut appeals to me in that it just looks stronger.
Having said that, the same problem of sourcing at an inexpensive price seems to remain. I went to Home Depot, Lowes, and Rona, but nobody carries it. Fastenal carries it and has 10ft lengths in stock, but they want about $60 per length + tax (http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/48124?searchMode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=). Figuring I'd need 3 10ft lengths = about $180 + tax, and that's before fasteners.
So I'm back to square one, has anyone sourced any of this in Canada for a reasonable price?
Having said that, the same problem of sourcing at an inexpensive price seems to remain. I went to Home Depot, Lowes, and Rona, but nobody carries it. Fastenal carries it and has 10ft lengths in stock, but they want about $60 per length + tax (http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/48124?searchMode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=). Figuring I'd need 3 10ft lengths = about $180 + tax, and that's before fasteners.
So I'm back to square one, has anyone sourced any of this in Canada for a reasonable price?
gergyboy13
Member
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I'm wondering the same thing about how well everybody's stands are holding up this long. I'm curious how it's holding up based on time and based on uses (roughly how many brews)
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I don't know how many brews I've put on it. But it's holding up like a champ and and don't foresee any issues with it outlasting me.
Every other brew or so I check the nuts/bolts for tightness, and occasionally I have to wrench on some of them.
BreezyBrew
IPA is my spirit animal
Thanks for the feedback!
SuckaMooHudda
Well-Known Member
I have probably made 35+ ten gallon batches during almost 2 years time, and it is as sturdy now as the day I built it. I raised my pots with angled steel to get the pots off the iron. I was afraid that over time the flame directly touching the iron would weaken it, so I added the steel. Not sure if it was necessary, but it works great. This stand is the best $200-ish I have ever spent. I love my system!!! I don't know if you could build a stand any cheaper with the strength of this stand. So, if you are thinking of building a stand on limited budget, look no further.
jstuts2260
Well-Known Member
I realize this may be a little bit of a cheat, since there are welds on my brew stand. But since I bought it like this and modified I technically didn't weld anything 
I bought the base stand from Academy sports, it's a 2 burner table. Then I cut out the propane tank holder in the middle and bolted a third burner on the bottom level. I removed the second burner from the top, and used that gas line to run propane to the bottom burner. This way I can use the original manifold and run my HLT and Brew Kettle from the factory manifold. I heat my sparge water in the 9 gallon kettle on the bottom and use my chugger pump to transfer heated sparge water to my sanke Mash Tun with false bottom.
I also bolted my 40 plate chiller with qd's onto the side back side. I only have to use 4 hoses total for brewing. I've been brewing on it for a little over a year and have never had an issue. All in all, the rig cost me around $220? Obviously, the pump, plate chiller and qd's were a little bit more.
The first 5 pics are the build out, the last 3 are during a brew session. As you can see, they've definitely gotten some use over the last year.
If you're looking for a no weld two tier stand, I highly recommend this one! I've made a lot of good beer on this system, and plan on using for years to come.
Cheers!
I bought the base stand from Academy sports, it's a 2 burner table. Then I cut out the propane tank holder in the middle and bolted a third burner on the bottom level. I removed the second burner from the top, and used that gas line to run propane to the bottom burner. This way I can use the original manifold and run my HLT and Brew Kettle from the factory manifold. I heat my sparge water in the 9 gallon kettle on the bottom and use my chugger pump to transfer heated sparge water to my sanke Mash Tun with false bottom.
I also bolted my 40 plate chiller with qd's onto the side back side. I only have to use 4 hoses total for brewing. I've been brewing on it for a little over a year and have never had an issue. All in all, the rig cost me around $220? Obviously, the pump, plate chiller and qd's were a little bit more.
The first 5 pics are the build out, the last 3 are during a brew session. As you can see, they've definitely gotten some use over the last year.
If you're looking for a no weld two tier stand, I highly recommend this one! I've made a lot of good beer on this system, and plan on using for years to come.
Cheers!
Not sure about Canada, but in the U.S. Lowes and Home Depot carry Unistrut. It is in the electrical section with conduit.
this has been 1 year, probably 8 batches with the burner in the frame. It hasn't gotten any more burned, or discolored since the 2nd or 3rd batch. I brew outside and am not worried about the "plating". I paid attention to the fumes till it burned off. Been fine since. I actually have replacement sections when I get my pumps situated and lay the stand down Horizontal/Single Tier.
Berk
Active Member
I'm on-board, ordered parts tonight!
Berk
Active Member
So you can add me to the list. I had a three tier gravity system that was a pain to set up. SWMBO said I can build a stand as long as i got rid of one of my two BBQ Grills, no problem that was an easy decision. I never used pumps before, so this is new to me and I was unsure of how this would all work.
A couple of things about my build, length is 54 inches, side burners are 19 inches wide each and the center for the MT is 16 inches wide. I chose to do a 22 inch height as opposed to 21. I purchased casters for $25 on flea bay.
I needed 3 bags of screws and that's what I happen to purchase. I used every last scrap of Angle Iron with maybe less than 6 inches of waste - total.
In the center, under the MT, I used a 16 x 16 tile from home depot, only $1.58. It keeps the MT cool. I happen to have two new iron grill grates that were 18 x 19, I trimmed them down to 16.5 x 19. The grill grates are required because I use an 8 gallon HLT and 10 gallon BK each only 13.5 inches diameter. They work great and I trimmed them up so the bolt heads hold them in place.
My observations on the burn-off and first run-through - The Covers/Shields over the pumps I made out of a $5 piece of steel, its invaluable... I spilled water everywhere on the first run through and the shields saved my pumps from a watery death. Also, the weather proof electric box was awesome, it got soak with water due to user error and no problems.
Very happy with this set-up and looking forward to my first brew on this stand, with pumps. I have a feeling that fly sparging will be a little less labor intensive.
edit added burner wind shields
A couple of things about my build, length is 54 inches, side burners are 19 inches wide each and the center for the MT is 16 inches wide. I chose to do a 22 inch height as opposed to 21. I purchased casters for $25 on flea bay.
I needed 3 bags of screws and that's what I happen to purchase. I used every last scrap of Angle Iron with maybe less than 6 inches of waste - total.
In the center, under the MT, I used a 16 x 16 tile from home depot, only $1.58. It keeps the MT cool. I happen to have two new iron grill grates that were 18 x 19, I trimmed them down to 16.5 x 19. The grill grates are required because I use an 8 gallon HLT and 10 gallon BK each only 13.5 inches diameter. They work great and I trimmed them up so the bolt heads hold them in place.
My observations on the burn-off and first run-through - The Covers/Shields over the pumps I made out of a $5 piece of steel, its invaluable... I spilled water everywhere on the first run through and the shields saved my pumps from a watery death. Also, the weather proof electric box was awesome, it got soak with water due to user error and no problems.
Very happy with this set-up and looking forward to my first brew on this stand, with pumps. I have a feeling that fly sparging will be a little less labor intensive.
edit added burner wind shields
sudndeth
Well-Known Member
I use that exact tile for mine too. Glad it's working out.
One day I would like to build a single tier stand. Too many other projects to do first... Congrats to those who have accomplished their builds!!
Why are folks using two pumps? I assumed you would use one pump and just change hose connections around as needed? Just curious??
Why are folks using two pumps? I assumed you would use one pump and just change hose connections around as needed? Just curious??
Why are folks using two pumps? I assumed you would use one pump and just change hose connections around as needed? Just curious??
That depends on if you fly sparge and/or recirculate mash. If you batch sparge, you can lauter, then swap to pump in the sparge, then swap to lauter again.
I prefer to fly sparge, so I will be be lautering with one pump, and then sparging with the other at the same time. I haven't gotten my single tier up and running yet, but that's the plan.
Ok. Makes sense, kinda sorta... I'm a batch sparger. Fly sparging is still a bit of a mystery to me.
Thanks for splaining things!
Berk
Active Member
Almost done, just need to get the HERMS coil in and get some more hose:
Almost done, just need to get the HERMS coil in and get some more hose:
Your wife is going to kick your butt if she catches you with that thing in the living room!
Looking good!!
Berk
Active Member
Your wife is going to kick your butt if she catches you with that thing in the living room!
Looking good!!
Ain't that the truth! LOL!!! It's been there for abut a week as I slowly complete the build. She keeps asking when I'm going to get it out of there.
But at least I got my brew buddy in the picture!
richlong8020
Well-Known Member
So I don't have to re-read the whole thread again. Who ever modded to fit the kegs under the burners so storage was better can you please post the measurements again. Thx for the help.
richlong8020
Well-Known Member
Ok I found it.
Finally posting a picture of the build. Learned a lot from reading everyone's ideas and mods. Appreciated.
I had this set up at first where I could just direct flow to and from the chiller w/o switching out a modular valve gizmo, but the weight of it all messed with a seal. Since I built this using camlock fittings in order to more readily clean things, now I just swap out gizmos at the camlocks when I want to run the BK wort through the counterflow and back, and have an in-line thermo. on the output side of the counterflow to get that reading. EZ.
I had this set up at first where I could just direct flow to and from the chiller w/o switching out a modular valve gizmo, but the weight of it all messed with a seal. Since I built this using camlock fittings in order to more readily clean things, now I just swap out gizmos at the camlocks when I want to run the BK wort through the counterflow and back, and have an in-line thermo. on the output side of the counterflow to get that reading. EZ.
richlong8020
Well-Known Member
Nice looking rig. I'm hoping to shop for mine soon. I really want to do all grain.
OP
OP
Goes for a test boil on Wed (I ran out of time today) and a test brew on Sat.
Edbeenbreto
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Man that is a clean rig!
Dillyo
Member
After scouring the internet and this forum, I landed on this set up. Hope to brew with it soon.
OP
OP
You're fly sparging?
How did you mount your burner?
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