twisting dip tube when tightening keg post

[Paulbill]

Hi all,

Question for the more experienced with their kegs.

On some of my kegs, when I tighten the out keg post, the dip tube will tend to twist as I tighten the last few turns. This then in turn causes the bottom of the dip tube to catch and scratch along the bottom of the keg and twist/deform out of shape as it catches along the bottom of the keg (along the rim of the depression). The beer dispenses OK though.

All of these kegs are the type with the curved dip tube that reaches to the bottom center of the keg where there is a depression for the bottom tip of the tube resides.

Is this normal?
The only thing that I can think of is that I replaced all of the gaskets on all of my kegs when I first got them. The in/out gaskets were replaced with round gaskets, as opposed to the more flat type.

Thanks in advance.

Paulbill

 

[Blender]

This was just happening to me today. I have had success hand tightening and then holding the tube with my hand while I tighten with the socket. I also try to determine how far the tube will move when I tighten it and adjust the position so that hopefully it is in the right spot.

 

[Yooper]

This was just happening to me today. I have had success hand tightening and then holding the tube with my hand while I tighten with the socket. I also try to determine how far the tube will move when I tighten it and adjust the position so that hopefully it is in the right spot.

Yeah, that's exactly what I've done, too. Once I hold the dip tube in one hand, and hand tighten with the other, it pretty much stays there while I use my deep socket to finish.

 

[MrFebtober]

The replacement o-rings (gaskets) probably do have a lower friction area than the old ones, making twist easier. However, I've never had this problem on my kegs, even with replacement o-rings greased up plenty good with keg lube. Sounds like Blender and Yooper have the solution, but you could try greasing (keg lube) the top of the dip tube flange (where it mates with the ball-lock post) to try to reduce that that friction. Also, check the mating surface of the inside of the post. Make sure it's smooth and that there isn't some point or rough spot that might be catching on the dip tube flange. Just an idea.

 

[GearBeer]

It could be catching...
I've heard a number of folks here advocate removing the bottom 1/4" of the liquid tube to prevent sucking sediment out of the keg. This would also solve your problem with bending/twisting the tube and scraping the bottom of the keg.

 

[BierMuncher]

It could be catching...
I've heard a number of folks here advocate removing the bottom 1/4" of the liquid tube to prevent sucking sediment out of the keg. This would also solve your problem with bending/twisting the tube and scraping the bottom of the keg.

For the bent tubes, giving them a sharper bend will lift the bottom of the dip tube off the bottom without having to cut anything.

 

[MrFebtober]

For the bent tubes, giving them a sharper bend will lift the bottom of the dip tube off the bottom without having to cut anything.

Wouldn't that also make it impossible to remove the dip tube from the keg? The mild bend already seems like a tight squeeze out of the post as it is.

 

[malkore]

I've never seen a good reason to shorten the dip tube. I like being able to blow the little bit of sediment out of the keg on the first pour, and then have it be happy, even when transported, for the life of the keg.

if your dip tube doesn't blow that out on the first pour, and you move the keg, you get cloudy beer for a day.

 

[Bobby_M]

I've tried the bend on mine and I hate it. I later cut off 1/4" off each dip tube in all 12 kegs I own.

 

[MgMt_Home_Brew]

Not to thread jack or anything but what is the consensus on cutting the bottom of the dip tube? If you do not cut it is it a big deal to get all the sediment out on the first pour?

 

[Bobby_M]

It's not that simple. I don't feel like all the sediment necessarily blows out on the first pour. Also, if the keg is slightly jostled afterwards, more sediment gets near the tube and comes out in the pour. I'd want at least 1/4" space to the bottom.

 

[MgMt_Home_Brew]

So should I cut about 3/4" off the bottom of the tube?

 

[Yooper]

So should I cut about 3/4" off the bottom of the tube?

I don't cut mine, but even so 3/4" sounds like too much to me. You'd be losing alot of beer that way! Maybe 1/4" would be enough.

 

[MgMt_Home_Brew]

So Yooper what is your typical procedure when starting a new keg? Draw a glass out untit it is running clean? I would assume you can get most of it out right off the bat as long as it is all settled to the bottom.

 

[Yooper]

So Yooper what is your typical procedure when starting a new keg? Draw a glass out untit it is running clean? I would assume you can get most of it out right off the bat as long as it is all settled to the bottom.

Well, I "check" carbonation every day or two, so by the time I'm ready to drink the beer, the sludge/sediment is gone and only clear beer comes out. The first time, I only draw off about 4 ounces or so, and that is mostly yeast sediment. The same with the second- but then it's pretty clear. When I'm done with the keg, there is very little sediment remaining usually- just a tiny bit at the very bottom of the keg, with NO liquid beer left over.

BUT- I don't rush to keg, either. I usually leave the beer 3-4 weeks in primary, before kegging and I keg only clear beer that often has been kept cold for a couple of days. So, the beer is really clean and clear when I keg it. I also don't travel with my kegs to parties and stuff- so the kegs sit quietly in the kegerator without being moved to stir up sediment.