Triple Jump

[Homer]

So I’ve decided to do sort of a triple jump in my brewing. I am jumping from extract to all grain, jumping from 5 gallon batches to 10 gallon, and I am also making the jump to all electric. This is going to be fun . Right now I am gathering/building just the key equipment needed to start doing some test batches and will do some further automation and improvements later.

Equipment list:

Mash Tun: I built one a few years ago out of a square cooler (never used it)
HLT: I have a 16+ gallon Penrose Kettle, and I bought a sight glass and Thermometer (weldless) from Bobby. For now I will use my heatstick to heat this one. This will gravity feed into the mash tun.

BK: I will be doing an e-keggle build, with bottom drain, sightglass, thermometer (weldless), and TC fitting (silver solder) for the element, also purchased from Bobby.

My first immediate question I have is about how I’m going to power the 5500W element in the BK. I think I want to use a PID and 40A SSR to control the boil, and from what I’ve been reading, it is good to have a manual mode to control the boil (which would use PWM?) I am thinking of buying Auber’s SYL-2352 PID temperature controller, 40A SSR and Heatsink. I am tempted by the ebay stuff because it is so much cheaper, but I’ve head both good and bad, so it makes me nervous. What do you think?

I am still researching fermentation options and a pump, but other than that does anyone have any suggestions for me or see that I am missing some major components here?

Thanks

 

[stlbeer]

For your BK, all you really need is a PWM. The Auber PIDs have manual control built in, but this is uber easy. You'll have stove like heating element control.

I suggest the 40a setup since you're running a 5500w element and the draw on that element will be 23a.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=353 Make sure you also get the 40a heat sink with the thermal paste.

 

[Homer]

For your BK, all you really need is a PWM. The Auber PIDs have manual control built in, but this is uber easy. You'll have stove like heating element control.

I suggest the 40a setup since you're running a 5500w element and the draw on that element will be 23a.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=353 Make sure you also get the 40a heat sink with the thermal paste.

I thought most people used PID's for the BK, but just in manual mode?
So all I need to run my BK is what you have linked here (plus the heat sink)? If so that is awesome, then I can put off getting the PID until I want to set up a RIMs or Herms system?

 

[jeffmeh]

If you are going to go with a PID eventually, skip the PWM and get a PID with manual mode right up front, IMO. Compared to having both, you will have less cost, fewer points of failure, and less space taken in the control box, and for brewing applications they are functionally equivalent.

 

[stlbeer]

I can see Jeffmeh's point. If you do it once, it's cheaper than doing it twice. I can agree with that.

Personally, I use PIDs (see my build link in my sig). Using the SYL-2352 it's very easy to put it into manual mode and then dial in the percentage duty cycle you need.

So I can see both sides of the issue and in all honesty the final decision is up to you.

 

[Homer]

I can see Jeffmeh's point. If you do it once, it's cheaper than doing it twice. I can agree with that.

Personally, I use PIDs (see my build link in my sig). Using the SYL-2352 it's very easy to put it into manual mode and then dial in the percentage duty cycle you need.

So I can see both sides of the issue and in all honesty the final decision is up to you.

Is using a PID for the BK overkill, is there any reason why you would not want to run it in manual mode?

 

[mattd2]

If you are going to go with a PID eventually, skip the PWM and get a PID with manual mode right up front, IMO. Compared to having both, you will have less cost, fewer points of failure, and less space taken in the control box, and for brewing applications they are functionally equivalent.

I can see Jeffmeh's point. If you do it once, it's cheaper than doing it twice. I can agree with that.

Personally, I use PIDs (see my build link in my sig). Using the SYL-2352 it's very easy to put it into manual mode and then dial in the percentage duty cycle you need.

So I can see both sides of the issue and in all honesty the final decision is up to you.

I would suggest going PID (with manual mode), but...
Install the Temp probe in the HLT (just remove the thermometer and screw in the probe). Then wire it with a scoket outlet so you can plug the heatstick in (in PID mode to set the strike/sparge temp), then when you need to boil unplug that and plug in the BK element and switch over to manual mode to control the boil.

 

[mattd2]

Is using a PID for the BK overkill, is there any reason why you would not want to run it in manual mode?

Cost is the only reason - in the BK you don't really care about the temp, it is either boiling or it isn't. If all you want is a simple means to control the strength of the boil, there are cheaper ways to do it (the SSVR as linked above or also sold by stilldragon - $4.5 more than the Auber but comes with everthing you need except a power cord)

 

[stlbeer]

Is using a PID for the BK overkill, is there any reason why you would not want to run it in manual mode?

One reason would be to prevent boil overs. PIDs have alarms. If you set the alarm to go off around 208-210*F then you can do other things such as dump and clean up the mash tun without worry of a boil over. You run it in automatic mode set at 212*F. When the alarm goes off you attend to the boil and prevent the boil over. Then place the PID in manual mode at 65-75% and your good to go.

 

[Homer]

Okay, I want the PID. I think I will buy this from Auber along with their SSR, but do I need to get their Heat sink and temp probe or are there others out these that work just as well. Also, I do not have a way yet to put this probe into my BK or HLT yet, I am mostly doing weldless, have any suggestions? Should I buy 2 thermowells and put one in each vessel? I did not get the sight glass thermo combo kit.

Thanks

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

If you're recirculating in the HLT then it's better to plumb it in, doesn't really matter for the BK, just through the side will be fine. Auber makes a decent probe and cable ("deluxe") and probes for weld less installation and for 1/2" fittings (like a 1/2" Tee).

 

[ColeBeer78]

How fast can you turn down the element in manual mode? We do 10 gallon batches and are pretty quick with cutting the flame before it boils over. We are currently in the process of going electric and was debating about going manual mode on a PID or using a rheostat.

 

[stlbeer]

How fast can you turn down the element in manual mode? We do 10 gallon batches and are pretty quick with cutting the flame before it boils over. We are currently in the process of going electric and was debating about going manual mode on a PID or using a rheostat.

Pretty quickly. There's a switch that controls the contactor that supplies power to the element. So say you set the power to 70% because that's where you get a good boil for your system. Then as it nears boil over you hit the switch to disengage the contactor. Boil over stops. Flip the switch again and the boils starts, etc. Once the proteins are all cooked and the boil over danger is passed, you're good to go. At least, that's what I do. Of course, you can always reach over and reduce the element duty cycle to less than 50% very quickly.