Tri clamp vs NPT
- Thread starter njpatg
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No point at all.
There can be *some* point - I *hate* disassembling my ball valves to clean the crap out of them, and will be buying butterfly or diaphragm valves in a few weeks. Since these valves use triclamp...
Yes, I know, it's not sanitary.
Yes, I know, it's not sanitary.
interconnectivity. If there was no point at all there'd be no demand for NPT-TC fittings and therefore nobody would make and sell them.
You can go from your BK (threaded) to your conical (Triclamp) and still have a sanitary connection because the threads on the BK were heat sanitized.
I also feel a sanitary butterfly valve, even if it is joined via an NPT-TC fitting is a far more cleanable and sanitary solution than a threaded connection going to a threaded ball valve with a female NPT discharge.
You can go from your BK (threaded) to your conical (Triclamp) and still have a sanitary connection because the threads on the BK were heat sanitized.
I also feel a sanitary butterfly valve, even if it is joined via an NPT-TC fitting is a far more cleanable and sanitary solution than a threaded connection going to a threaded ball valve with a female NPT discharge.
Yes, there are *some* justifications for them. One case where it makes a lot of sense is if you're building a small pilot brewery for a larger commercial setup. No reason to mix and match connection types.
It's more likely I'm asked if there are any reason to go with TC on every port of every vessel for a 10 gallon homebrew setup and my answer is generally no. It's an even bigger no if there are any other factors like budget. If you've got a welded 1/2" coupling as a drain port, you'd need a TC adapter, then TC valve, then a TC to hose barb. Add two clamps and gaskets. Even if you go with the cheapest China seller on Ebay you're over $110 just for just one of those sets. In NPT/camlock it's $36.
Budget aside, 10 gallon pots look obnoxious with TC hardware cantilevered off the sides, especially with it's an HLT with some 5 ports.
It's more likely I'm asked if there are any reason to go with TC on every port of every vessel for a 10 gallon homebrew setup and my answer is generally no. It's an even bigger no if there are any other factors like budget. If you've got a welded 1/2" coupling as a drain port, you'd need a TC adapter, then TC valve, then a TC to hose barb. Add two clamps and gaskets. Even if you go with the cheapest China seller on Ebay you're over $110 just for just one of those sets. In NPT/camlock it's $36.
Budget aside, 10 gallon pots look obnoxious with TC hardware cantilevered off the sides, especially with it's an HLT with some 5 ports.
I also tend to agree with all that ^
I only have TC one spot in my home brewery, and it's at the bottom of my conical and it's because I don't trust threaded ball valves when it's something as sensitive as yeast transfer. TC on 10G pots IS a little overkill, but if I were going to put an element into a 10G pot I'd probably use it for ease of removal/cleaning reasons.
I only have TC one spot in my home brewery, and it's at the bottom of my conical and it's because I don't trust threaded ball valves when it's something as sensitive as yeast transfer. TC on 10G pots IS a little overkill, but if I were going to put an element into a 10G pot I'd probably use it for ease of removal/cleaning reasons.
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