Adding bulkheads to kettle(s)?

[whoaru99]

Been looking at various bulkhead fitting for adding two, maybe three, to a kettle having none presently.

These here ones without threads inside the kettle look pretty nifty. The interior connection being push-in with internal orings I suppose isn't as universal as 1/2" NPT, but there is a push-in to 1/2" NPT adapter and/or push-in to 1/2" hose barb adapter.

Anyone here using them, or other thoughts/opinions on them?

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I have used those weldless bulkhead fittings ( 1/2" NPT) in a brew kettle I built from a half barrel keg. It worked well as long as the fitting wasn't in direct contact with the burner. Not sure how three of them would work with their orientation though.

I've heard others not liking them but they worked fine for me. I used them with a fermenter also built from a keg.

Good option if you can't get a welded fitting.

 

[PCABrewing]

I have used those weldless bulkhead fittings ( 1/2" NPT) in a brew kettle I built from a half barrel keg. It worked well as long as the fitting wasn't in direct contact with the burner. Not sure how three of them would work with their orientation though.

I've heard others not liking them but they worked fine for me. I used them with a fermenter also built from a keg.

Good option if you can't get a welded fitting.

I've used them too. They work. If you need a straight fitting they make a hose barb fitting that will replace the 90.

 

[whoaru99]

Gonna give'em a shot. Ordered two of those bulkheads, a couple of the hose barb adapters, and one 1/2" NPT adapter.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Double check, but I believe you need to drill a 7/8" hole for the 1/2" weldless bulkheads. A hole saw works great. I'm not near my brewery to verify the size.

 

[whoaru99]

I think the information did say 7/8" hole.

Have a step bit that goes there, but pondering to see if one of the local electricians might loan or rent me a hole punch. Seems I've read a 1/2" conduit punch creates a 7/8" hole.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I think the information did say 7/8" hole.

Have a step bit that goes there, but pondering to see if one of the local electricians might loan or rent me a hole punch. Seems I've read a 1/2" conduit punch creates a 7/8" hole.

The conduit punch I think would be an easier way to get a hole in your kettle. Drilling works but I think you'll get a cleaner cut at least with the electrician punches I've seen on the ship floor.

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, when I festooned my three kettles with (9 total extra) bulkheads from @Bobby_M I used a Greenlee punch that left 13/16" diameter holes which was perfect. 7/8" would work but the fit would be comparatively sloppy...

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

It's not clear to me what part goes inside the kettle, aka where the kettle wall sits in that assembly. I'm assuming it's where the red oring is visible. If that's the case, how do you hold the internal fitting while you tighten everything up?

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

It's not clear to me what part goes inside the kettle, aka where the kettle wall sits in that assembly. I'm assuming it's where the red oring is visible. If that's the case, how do you hold the internal fitting while you tighten everything up?

This is one style I have used ( picture from Williams Brewing). The red oring goes to the inside. The nut has a flat gland that the oring sits in. The flat silicone washer goes on the outside with washer.

Use some Teflon tape on the threads. Tighten up but don't crush the orings.

The OP has something else but it must work close to the same.

 

[Bobby_M]

This is one style I have used ( picture from Williams Brewing). The red oring goes to the inside. The nut has a flat gland that the oring sits in. The flat silicone washer goes on the outside with washer.

Use some Teflon tape on the threads. Tighten up but don't crush the orings.

The OP has something else but it must work close to the same.

Nah, that picture is a pile of hardware store plumbing aisle parts at best. It's an atrocity that any brewing equipment vendor would call that a bulkhead, let alone sell it. The one in the original post at least looks to be purpose made as a bulkhead with a groove machined to contain the oring.

 

[Bobby_M]

If found it. It's a Northern Brewer product. It is a purpose made bulkhead but as I suspected, there really is no way of holding the whole assembly when you go to wrench on a ball valve on the exterior. They should have machined some flats somewhere, or make it a hex on the interior.

 

[whoaru99]

Yeah, at least two flats would be convenient.

There isn't too much margin between the OD and where the o-ring groove is so probably not going to try making my own flats, not on the inside anyway. Gonna contemplate flats a bit more.

Thinking maybe a jam nut or two on the threaded stub to hold it during assembly will git'er done.

 

[whoaru99]

Noticed the bushing is milled with a very slight concave radius on the side that's supposed to go against the kettle.

Nice touch, whether it truly matters much may be a different story.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Nah, that picture is a pile of hardware store plumbing aisle parts at best. It's an atrocity that any brewing equipment vendor would call that a bulkhead, let alone sell it. The one in the original post at least looks to be purpose made as a bulkhead with a groove machined to contain the oring.

That picture you posted was one I was trying to find. That what I have used. The inside nut is the end of a machine piece with threads to the outside.

Perhaps vendors don't sell them now but before there was better solutions that's all that was available. They did work too.

 

[shoengine]

I don't think that is a bushing per se, as much as it is a spacer. @Bobby_M is right when stating that the oring will be the contact surface on the inside and then I guess that spacer will sit on the outside to allow clearance for other things to attach to the threads.

On the three weldless fittings I have on my kettle the two below the water line have threads on the inside. It would be much nicer if they were threaded instead on the outside for sure.

 

[whoaru99]

I don't think that is a bushing per se, as much as it is a spacer.

Of course it's a spacer, not a bushing in a purely engineering sense. Figure of speech.

 

[whoaru99]

Didn't get hooked up with a conduit/hole punch but I should have a 21mm carbide-tooth hole saw not later than tomorrow.

I understand kettle geometry may have some influence on height, have to stay above radius from side wall to bottom or any steps/uneven surface, etc.

But, generally, do you put the diptube so it is some height off the bottom when straight up and down, or so that the diptube touches bottom but remains open to the side?

I'm hoping the attached pictures show what I'm asking. If there are other suggestions/considerations I'd like to hear those too.

The dip tube is slip fit (two orings grip and seal the tube inside the bulkhead) and can rotate.

(Also, I have a hose barb slip in adapter and a 1/2" NPT female slip in adapter, if either might play into placement.)

 

[Bobby_M]

1/4" off the bottom leaves enough room so you don't readily clog it.

 

[whoaru99]

Thank you.

I've seen bulkheads/valves installed in-line/below the kettle handles or installed 90-degrees/perpendicular to the kettle handles.

Is there good reason, or opinion anyway, for one way vs. the other?

 

[Bobby_M]

Not really any difference. The only reason you'll find ports offset from center is if two ports are sharing the same height. I build many kettles that way to keep the drain and whirlpool return down at the bottom edge of the kettle. If you just put one drain in, it can be anywhere.

 

[day_trippr]

My three 20 gallon kettles all came with their one ball valve under a handle. I'm not certain as I haven't dealt with the alternative, but I think that is the preferable position vs between the handles, as the handle above the valve ends up right at the front edge of my single tier rig, which allows me to slide the mash tun towards me without bending forward over the rig to reach both handles (sorry 'bout the run-on sentence)...

Cheers!

 

[whoaru99]

The carbide hole saw actually arrived today. Cut in the drain hole easy-peasy, but 13/16" / 21mm is just a tad small for the NB bulkheads.

Will take a little touch-up with Dremel for the bulkhead to fit through (goes part way but not all the way) but I like that rather than being too loose/oversize.

 

[whoaru99]

Yup, didn't take much with the Demel.

Dip tube ended up 9/32" off the bottom when straight down.

Now just to decide if I should put one in a whirlpoolish position or nearer the top for recirc. Hmmm.

 

[Bobby_M]

Now just to decide if I should put one in a whirlpoolish position or nearer the top for recirc. Hmmm.

If you use a BIAB, the recirc should go through the lid.

 

[whoaru99]

Did an extract brew today.

Man, the whirlpool and bulkhead/dip tube is the ticket rather than a racking cane. Shoulda done this long ago (but then many of you know this already, LOL).

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Very nice, congratulations!