Treehouse Brewing Julius Clone

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I'm more impressed that his homebrewery is 1BBL....
thats a whole lot os Hazy Hoppy IPA to drink...

No, thank God it's not a 1BBL system. lbs/BBL is just a rate that someone mentioned and I kept things consistent.
 
First attempt at a NEIPA done with omega labs' OYL-200. Method is key with brewing (ferm temps, PH, oxygen, etc). Will try LODO and hop extracts next time.

IMG_7811.jpg
 
Sorry, math error. It was actually 4.3 oz/gallon. I would have to do two identical batches back to back with the same hops from the same harvest/supplier to be able to answer your question, and I have not done that yet. Probably never will. I do generally see a benefit to using more, but I've found that variety has much more of an influence than quantity. It was 19.5 oz in 16 gallons of wort split up between FO and two hopstands at different temps. I lose 3 gallons in the BK due to hops, so the dry hop was 40 oz in 13 gallons. I lose 3 gallons in the fermenter and am left with 10 gallons of finished beer. I also use a very little bit of Hopshot in the BK.

I have no idea how real breweries figure lbs/BBL. Hops suck up a lot of wort/beer. Is it lbs of hops per BBL of finished beer or lbs of hops per BBL of the volume of liquid that the hops went into like I calculated it? That makes the most sense and is the most meaningful to me. If the former, I guess my rates would be even higher... almost 6 oz/gallon.

Are you using leaf, how are you losing that much in the BK? What filtering do you use? I use a combo of a stainless hop spider (8" and I think around 400 micron) and get good flow and a hip taco (28x28mesh) and I pull every last drop out. Here is my taco after last batch, amazing what it grabs even with a spider. That is a keggle, only a little liquid left. That was with 16 ozs in a 13.5 gallon boil.

View attachment 1486861909303.jpg
 
Looks pretty. What did you use for ferm temps/Ph/O2/etc?

OYL-200 does best at expressing the tropical fruit notes on the higher end 70s-80s. I even messed up and tossed in glacier hops in my dry hop but I got no notes of that just a candied tropical fruit bomb, citra and mosiac dominated. Would like more of a fresher tropical/citrus vibe tho. PH at 5.2 mash/boil. Closed transfer into a flushed keg.
 
OYL-200 does best at expressing the tropical fruit notes on the higher end 70s-80s. I even messed up and tossed in glacier hops in my dry hop but I got no notes of that just a candied tropical fruit bomb, citra and mosiac dominated. Would like more of a fresher tropical/citrus vibe tho. PH at 5.2 mash/boil. Closed transfer into a flushed keg.

Did you go heavy on flaked wheat/oats?
 
Are you using leaf, how are you losing that much in the BK? What filtering do you use? I use a combo of a stainless hop spider (8" and I think around 400 micron) and get good flow and a hip taco (28x28mesh) and I pull every last drop out. Here is my taco after last batch, amazing what it grabs even with a spider. That is a keggle, only a little liquid left. That was with 16 ozs in a 13.5 gallon boil.

All pellet and no filtering as I've learned that I don't want or need it in my system. Filtering only complicates things for me (more junk to clean, lower flow rate, etc.). I also get out almost all of the liquid. The loss is mainly from hop absorption.
 

Anybody know where to buy this stuff online? Can you buy directly through YCH? I've heard issues with this stuff migrating to the sides of the BK and sticking, hindering alpha-acid extraction, how would you add this stuff to your boil?
 
DIPA with 60/40 citra/mosaic
.5oz Columbus FWH
1oz each at 5 min
4 citra 2 mosaic 20min WP@ 180F

Fermented at 67-68 up to 70 with first dry hop addition
2citra/1mosaic dry hop on day three just as the Krausen started to deflate
4citra/2mosaic dry hop day 6 at 60F-- helps dry hops to soak up and sink after a day or two

Kegged after second round of DH finished its third full day

Water:
Ca: 120
Mg: 7
Na: 0
Cl: 182
SO4: 72

It's not Julius clone or an attempt to be one but a very successful DIPA in the style

IMG_7775.jpg
 
DIPA with 60/40 citra/mosaic
.5oz Columbus FWH
1oz each at 5 min
4 citra 2 mosaic 20min WP@ 180F

Fermented at 67-68 up to 70 with first dry hop addition
2citra/1mosaic dry hop on day three just as the Krausen started to deflate
4citra/2mosaic dry hop day 6 at 60F-- helps dry hops to soak up and sink after a day or two

Kegged after second round of DH finished its third full day

Water:
Ca: 120
Mg: 7
Na: 0
Cl: 182
SO4: 72

It's not Julius clone or an attempt to be one but a very successful DIPA in the style

I'm assuming the diacetyl, in this particular style, is not an issue. If you're kegging on Day 9 and dropping temp from 70ºF to 60ºF on Day 6, surely the yeast haven't cleaned up fermentation byproducts. I'm willing to bet the diacetyl is likely undetectable by flavor/aroma due to the onslaught of hops – maybe it assists in mouthfeel as well...
 
I don't detect any. Ask any of the other guys who are kegging this quickly. Fermentation is roaring away in 12-26 hours and is pretty much wrapped up in 3-4 days. Kegged by day 9 and drinking 3-4 days later
 
I don't detect any. Ask any of the other guys who are kegging this quickly. Fermentation is roaring away in 12-26 hours and is pretty much wrapped up in 3-4 days. Kegged by day 9 and drinking 3-4 days later

So basically you're just doing a few days of 60ºF as "cold-crash" to drop the pellets out of solution?
 
DIPA with 60/40 citra/mosaic
.5oz Columbus FWH
1oz each at 5 min
4 citra 2 mosaic 20min WP@ 180F

Fermented at 67-68 up to 70 with first dry hop addition
2citra/1mosaic dry hop on day three just as the Krausen started to deflate
4citra/2mosaic dry hop day 6 at 60F-- helps dry hops to soak up and sink after a day or two

Kegged after second round of DH finished its third full day

Water:
Ca: 120
Mg: 7
Na: 0
Cl: 182
SO4: 72

It's not Julius clone or an attempt to be one but a very successful DIPA in the style

What was the weight of your brewing salts for this recipe?

Care to post the full recipe?
 
What was the weight of your brewing salts for this recipe?

Care to post the full recipe?

Added to the mash only. 2 grams gypsum, 2 grams epsom salt, 10 grams calcium chloride. My mash was right around 5.3-5.4 as is with 100% distilled water so no additional acid added

12# briess brewers malt 2row
3# white wheat
1#flaked oats
1# carapils
10 oz crystal 15

Pretty sure it landed around 1.012 with an abv of 8.5%. You'll probably have to adjust grain amounts to fit your efficiency. Mine has been a bit decreased in the cold ass winter so I upped everything but my important percentages are ~20% wheat malt and ~4% c15
 
Bump. I second Jmash. Any conclusions to the best Julius clone? Will be doing Joemammasipa recipe this weekend, as it sounded pretty legit. Found at post #648. Anyone wanna chime in?
 
Try my recipe above. Drinking it now and I'd certainly stand by it. PM me for more specific questions I'd be glad to answer. 2L starter of Conan fermented around 67-68. You could bring the 2-row down to 9-10 pounds and adjust the other malt percentages from there to get into a 6.5-7% abv range

Secret tip: NO WHIRFLOC/IRISH MOSS
 
Secret tip: NO WHIRFLOC/IRISH MOSS

While that will result in a hazy beer, you are reducing wort quality as a result. That is counter intuitive if your trying to make outstanding beer. The haze comes from the hops and yeast. When the brewery stirs the hops by blowing co2 into the cone it makes the beer really cloudy. Takes forever to settle out, but eventually it will.
 
While that will result in a hazy beer, you are reducing wort quality as a result. That is counter intuitive if your trying to make outstanding beer. The haze comes from the hops and yeast. When the brewery stirs the hops by blowing co2 into the cone it makes the beer really cloudy. Takes forever to settle out, but eventually it will.

Blah blah blah
 
While that will result in a hazy beer, you are reducing wort quality as a result. That is counter intuitive if your trying to make outstanding beer. The haze comes from the hops and yeast. When the brewery stirs the hops by blowing co2 into the cone it makes the beer really cloudy. Takes forever to settle out, but eventually it will.

That depends on whether you whirlfloc or kettle fine in the first place. if you dont do it anyways its not an issue.
(For me its simply a process thing, always stick to the same process you have)

Blah blah blah

HAHAHA
 
While that will result in a hazy beer, you are reducing wort quality as a result. That is counter intuitive if your trying to make outstanding beer. The haze comes from the hops and yeast. When the brewery stirs the hops by blowing co2 into the cone it makes the beer really cloudy. Takes forever to settle out, but eventually it will.

I saw a tweet (I wish I could find it again) from JC. He said his beers are tested and certified low yeast counts in the finished beer. The haze (their's anyway) does not seem to come from yeast left in suspension.
 
Added to the mash only. 2 grams gypsum, 2 grams epsom salt, 10 grams calcium chloride. My mash was right around 5.3-5.4 as is with 100% distilled water so no additional acid added

12# briess brewers malt 2row
3# white wheat
1#flaked oats
1# carapils
10 oz crystal 15

Pretty sure it landed around 1.012 with an abv of 8.5%. You'll probably have to adjust grain amounts to fit your efficiency. Mine has been a bit decreased in the cold ass winter so I upped everything but my important percentages are ~20% wheat malt and ~4% c15

Thank you! Is this for 5, 5.5, or 6 gallons?

In my many years of brewing, I have never used any fining agents. No need :)

Do you happen to have this as a Beersmith file?
 
Anyone using brewtan b or pvpp for extending freshness? Or any LODO practices (hot side and cold side)?
 
Thank you! Is this for 5, 5.5, or 6 gallons?

In my many years of brewing, I have never used any fining agents. No need :)

Do you happen to have this as a Beersmith file?

5 gallons into the fermenter. I do have it in beersmith but it's pretty simplified just to hit my wort numbers. Kinda like reading your own hand writing if you know what I mean?
 
Anyone using brewtan b or pvpp for extending freshness? Or any LODO practices (hot side and cold side)?

I have been using Brewtan B for 9ish months. It does extend freshness IME, at least it has for many lagers I have done that are 6+ months old and still taste fresh as the day they were kegged. My NEIPAs and IPAs in general do not stick around long enough to test it on them but I still use it in them anyway.
 
Hey all-

I have some wort in the ferm now, should be able to contribute to this thread here soon, after some recent batches with late hop additions. I did have a couple questions in regards to this beer style and the IBU in beersmith, its skewed.

For example, Nates recipe hoppy things says IBU = 75, however when I type it in with varied water profile, its up near 140+ within beersmith

Is this pretty normal with these massive late hop additions?
 
what do you mean by late hop? like, in the boil or after? also, check the AA% that's quoted in the recipe and compare to your own.

in general, I would say yes. BS is bad at late hops, but it always deserves a look into why
 
Thanks for your response, Strictly whirlpool in my case. Beersmith nulls the dry hopped IBU value. Also yeah I checked the AA% and that was already set. If I use the hoppy things recipe in beersmith it shows me an IBU of 140 a little crazy (with a 20 minute steep/whirlpool). Question to you all, during a whirlpool, are you letting this stand for a certain amount of time or right after flameout, sending it through the chiller. I know mileage will vary based on recipe, curious on a really hoppy IPA in that regard.
 
if you're feeling up to it, I'd just say screw it and use it all for dry hop. I did my last IPA that way and it was perfectly great. In fact, JC from Trillium seems to imply they only dry hop at least one of their more famous beers
 
Latest attempt at a NE Galaxy Pale (not a Julius clone). Zero whirlpool hops, dry-hopped in conical on day 3 and day 7. Grain to glass was 10 days total. Also kept O2 exposure the lowest I ever have. Hop flavor/aroma are fantastic. Not even sure if whirlpool hops would be necessary and unsure what exactly it would change in the flavor profile...

Screen Shot 2017-03-08 at 12.57.31 PM.png
 
My last attempt was delicious, but I increased the flameout addition from the one before due to all the fuss about flameout/whirlpool hops being important to the style, and I got a huge increase in bitterness. It wasn't unpleasant, and was still nowhere near West Coast IPA levels, but it was more than I was aiming for.
Other than that, the batch was damn near perfect, and I am done tweaking my grain bill. The next time, I am going to push some of, if not all of, that flameout and whirlpool addition to dry hopping.
I'm actually considering putting it in at pitching, which would make three dry hop additions (I usually do day 3 and day 6).

Anybody have any thoughts or experience adding a pitch-in dry hop addition?
 
My last attempt was delicious, but I increased the flameout addition from the one before due to all the fuss about flameout/whirlpool hops being important to the style, and I got a huge increase in bitterness. It wasn't unpleasant, and was still nowhere near West Coast IPA levels, but it was more than I was aiming for.
Other than that, the batch was damn near perfect, and I am done tweaking my grain bill. The next time, I am going to push some of, if not all of, that flameout and whirlpool addition to dry hopping.
I'm actually considering putting it in at pitching, which would make three dry hop additions (I usually do day 3 and day 6).

Anybody have any thoughts or experience adding a pitch-in dry hop addition?


I thought about it but often get some blowoff, so I decided against it.
 
Latest attempt at a NE Galaxy Pale (not a Julius clone). Zero whirlpool hops, dry-hopped in conical on day 3 and day 7. Grain to glass was 10 days total. Also kept O2 exposure the lowest I ever have. Hop flavor/aroma are fantastic. Not even sure if whirlpool hops would be necessary and unsure what exactly it would change in the flavor profile...

How many hops/gallon total? Seems like 100% Galaxy would be super intense. Does anyone else get a sort of medicinal character from Galaxy? I love it as a complement to other hops, but it seems like it would be over-the-top as a single hop. Probably depends on what farm/supplier it came from too I would guess.
 
How many hops/gallon total? Seems like 100% Galaxy would be super intense. Does anyone else get a sort of medicinal character from Galaxy? I love it as a complement to other hops, but it seems like it would be over-the-top as a single hop. Probably depends on what farm/supplier it came from too I would guess.

Yes, lots of folks get that from Galaxy. I'm one as well. I like it best as an accent hop in limited amounts
 
I don't get that with Galaxy and I use a lot of it, but never as a single hop - I usually pair it in equal amounts with Citra or most recently equal amounts with Citra and Azacca.
Never experienced anything medicinal.
 
Yes, lots of folks get that from Galaxy. I'm one as well. I like it best as an accent hop in limited amounts

I hear a lot of descriptors that it is a super fruity hop, but I have mostly gotten the medicinal with some dank-inspired funk of some sort. It really adds a very complex, interesting character when used up to 50% in my experience. I've never used more than 6 oz in a 6 gallon batch and that was in equal parts with Citra. I am interested in trying a Mosaic-Galaxy combo though. Some have said it is very nice.
 
I don't get that with Galaxy and I use a lot of it, but never as a single hop - I usually pair it in equal amounts with Citra or most recently equal amounts with Citra and Azacca.
Never experienced anything medicinal.

I used it in a belgian golden strong one time, and it was too harsh and aggressive. it had a strong medicinal, almost iodine character. Like I said, I love it paired with other hops though. Weird! Synergy!
 

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