Treehouse Brewing Julius Clone

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specharka,

I see your point, but to get the strong aromas and flavors like Tree House this is the way that has worked for me. I do have recipe's that use much less hops and they are good and burst with flavor and aroma but this particular one (Emily's) just seems to have settled in to these amounts.

The method I use to get rid of green swimmers and retain aroma and flavor is to let the beer cold condition in the keg longer (there's a sweet spot for the amount of time). But green swimmers don't bother me so I come home and have a sample.

I've been using a similar method (more like Ed Coffey's method) to Derek's method of dry hopping for a long time. And it works...I get great aroma and flavor hopping beers similar to his recipe's which are quite less the amount of hops used in the beer mentioned above.

If cooling the whirlpool to a certain temperature is part of Nate's process, I'm sure there's a way to do so on the bigger scale he brews at. What’s the point in building a brew house if you can't customize it to your brewing needs? There's no fun in that. I have a hard time thinking someone of Nate’s caliber would just throw his hands up if the company he hired to build his brew house said it’s impossible.

Calichusetts,

I see variety in the quality of hops from local home brew shops and online shops. One shop I won't buy hops from because they bag all their hops in zip-lock bags and store in a refrigerator. The big Mylar bags they use to fill the smaller zip-lock bags sometimes sit on the counter top for a good portion of the day with the opening rolled up like a bag of chips. And when they do put them away in the fridge/freezer in the storage room they throw a rubber band around the bag and toss it in. The other shop I go to has the Hop Union nitrogen purged and sealed bags. But even then a friend once asked for some Saaz and they went in the back and dug around in a shipment that hadn't been unpacked yet...how long were they sitting in the warehouse and at what temperature. I once ordered 4 ounces of Amarillo online that smelled like hay bales. Not something I'd want to put in my beer.

The culture that I've found prevalent is the lack of respect for the ingredients and product. Shop owners are quick to substitute something for an item they may not have in stock, tell you to use the yeast, “It will be fine,” when the expiration date is old, or tell you we have a clone of that beer you mentioned your trying to emulate. Really? You’ve cloned it like a sheep? How long did that take?

Anyways, I’m sure Nate pays attention to the quality of his ingredients; has access to fresh ingredients and doesn’t substitute important ingredients.

At best, as home brewer’s we should develop our practices to get our recipes as close to the quality of the products we like. Would Nate throw more hops in? He may; he may not need to.
 
As far as I know, commercial breweries use plate chillers to cool the wort en route to the fermenter, and don't have the capability to reduce the wort temperature while it's in the BK. The design of modern commercial brewhouses maximizes thermal efficiency and keeps thermal losses to a minimum. Even after they cut steam to the BK, the heat capacity of the wort will keep it hot (>200F) for hours.
 
As far as I know, commercial breweries use plate chillers to cool the wort en route to the fermenter, and don't have the capability to reduce the wort temperature while it's in the BK. The design of modern commercial brewhouses maximizes thermal efficiency and keeps thermal losses to a minimum. Even after they cut steam to the BK, the heat capacity of the wort will keep it hot (>200F) for hours.

It's common practice to whirlpool with ground water in the HEX/chiller and switch to glycol while knocking out to the fermentor. I'm sure there's several approaches though
 
It's common practice to whirlpool with ground water in the HEX/chiller and switch to glycol while knocking out to the fermentor. I'm sure there's several approaches though


They actually send it through the chiller before the whirlpool is active? I thought the whole purpose was to build up the hop trub cone before it went through the chiller to minimize trub carryover to the fermenter. I always thought they'd bypass the HEX in the whirlpool to prevent trub clogging it.
 
So i was playing around on brewers friend and tried to duplicate as much as I could from this thread and what we know as fact. I chose to go with citra, mosaic, and amarillo. I'm new to making recipes so let me know if there is something that doesnt look right. Also, I couldnt figure out how to add the hop shot on the website so i just shot for around 66IBU knowing that the hopshot should add about 10IBU if put in at the 60min mark:

Method: All Grain
Style: American IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.051 (recipe based estimate)
Efficiency: 70% (brew house)
Original Gravity:1.065
Final Gravity:1.016
ABV (standard):6.37%
IBU (tinseth):66.5
SRM (morey):7.65

Fermentables
Amount Fermentable PPG °L Bill %
13 lb American - Pale 2-Row 37 1.8 94.5%
0.5 lb American - Caramel / Crystal 60L 34 60 3.6%
0.25 lb Canadian - Honey Malt 37 25 1.8%
13.75 lb Total

Hops
Amount Variety Type AA Use Time IBU
1.5 oz Amarillo Pellet 8.6 Boil 20 min 26.82
1 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Boil 20 min 25.99
1 oz Citra Pellet 11 Boil 10 min 13.69
1.5 oz Citra Pellet 11 Boil 0 min
1.5 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Boil 0 min
1 oz Amarillo Pellet 8.6 Dry Hop 5 days
1 oz Citra Pellet 11 Dry Hop 5 days
1 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5 Dry Hop 5 days

Hops Summary
Amount Variety Type AA
2.5 oz Amarillo Pellet 8.6
3.5 oz Citra Pellet 11
3.5 oz Mosaic Pellet 12.5

Mash Guidelines
Amount Description Type Temp Time
7.5 gal Sparge 150 F 60 min
Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb

Yeast
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318
Attenuation (avg): 73%
Flocculation: High
Optimum Temp: 64 - 74 °F
Starter: Yes
Fermentation Temp: 150 °F
Pitch Rate: 0.75 (M cells / ml / ° P)
248 B cells required
 
This is the recipe I came up with. It's vaguely based off of Hoppy Things, and influenced by some other beers of this style like Heady Topper and HopHands. I'd appreciate any insight or suggestions. The carafoam feels a pretty unnecessary considering the wheat and oats. It's not all that dissimilar to a grain bill that Ruckusz28 posted maybe 20 pages or so ago, and noslenwerd posted recently. I'm looking to brew this in a few weeks perhaps.

Projected for 5.5 gallons at 65% efficiency. I figure I'll lose a lot to trub.

11 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 78.0 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 10.2 %
12.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 5.1 %
8.0 oz Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.4 %
4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 1.7 %
4.0 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 1.7 %

Bittering: (may use hopshot if I order soon)
0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 31.3 IBU

1.00 oz Citra [11.10%] (15 min) Hops 12.0 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (15 min) Hops 9.2 IBU

Flameout:
1.50 oz Citra [11.10%] (0 min) Hops -
0.75 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (0 min) Hops -
0.75 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (0 min) Hops -

Hopstand @ 170-180 for 30min
1.50 oz Citra [11.10%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.75 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.75 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -

Dry Hop (will probably split in half. Half as fermentation is subsiding, and half after totally attenuated)
3.00 oz Citra [11.10%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.50 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -

1 Pkgs London Ale III (Wyeast Labs #1318) Yeast-Ale
 
This is the recipe I came up with. It's vaguely based off of Hoppy Things, and influenced by some other beers of this style like Heady Topper and HopHands. I'd appreciate any insight or suggestions. The carafoam feels a pretty unnecessary considering the wheat and oats. It's not all that dissimilar to a grain bill that Ruckusz28 posted maybe 20 pages or so ago, and noslenwerd posted recently. I'm looking to brew this in a few weeks perhaps.

Projected for 5.5 gallons at 65% efficiency. I figure I'll lose a lot to trub.

11 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 78.0 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 10.2 %
12.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 5.1 %
8.0 oz Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.4 %
4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 1.7 %
4.0 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 1.7 %

Bittering: (may use hopshot if I order soon)
0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 31.3 IBU

1.00 oz Citra [11.10%] (15 min) Hops 12.0 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (15 min) Hops 9.2 IBU

Flameout:
1.50 oz Citra [11.10%] (0 min) Hops -
0.75 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (0 min) Hops -
0.75 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (0 min) Hops -

Hopstand @ 170-180 for 30min
1.50 oz Citra [11.10%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.75 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.75 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -

Dry Hop (will probably split in half. Half as fermentation is subsiding, and half after totally attenuated)
3.00 oz Citra [11.10%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.50 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -

1 Pkgs London Ale III (Wyeast Labs #1318) Yeast-Ale

These two recipes line up nicely with what I've been doing. Except that I'm still on extract and I went all citra after the bittering addition. I used 7lbs of light dme and steeped honey and caramel 60. I tasted it last night to see if it was ready to bottle and it seems like it came out great.
 
has anyone considered using unmalted raw wheat for the wheat components in many of these beers? it adds to the suspended particles in a beer. perhaps the hops will have something to cling to
 
So I just brewed a beer using 1318 and I'm wondering if this is the yeast they use how do you guys think they are able to get high abv beers like green while keeping the beer full bodied. I say this as 1318 doesn't attenuate all that great and I wonder how they get these beers to 8% + abv without using dextrose and drying the beer out.
 
From my experience, 1318 attenuates fine (at least 75% to 80%). 8% beers are no problem for that yeast. It makes a smooth beer with a delicate finish just dry enough.
 
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So I just brewed a beer using 1318 and I'm wondering if this is the yeast they use how do you guys think they are able to get high abv beers like green while keeping the beer full bodied. I say this as 1318 doesn't attenuate all that great and I wonder how they get these beers to 8% + abv without using dextrose and drying the beer out.

Maybe they use some amylase or something? Or add a high attenuating strain later on? That's the key to my 9% double IPA to get it so dry.

But I also don't really feel 1318 has the chops to make a dry 8% beer unless you entirely construct the recipe around its somewhat low attenuation. I find its great for session IPAs where you dont want it to get too low, but I wouldnt use it for a double IPA given the choice
 
I don't want this to become an amylase thread, but couldn't you add some 6 row to do the same thing? or is that enzyme going to directly produce alcohol?
 
Maybe they use some amylase or something? Or add a high attenuating strain later on? That's the key to my 9% double IPA to get it so dry.

But I also don't really feel 1318 has the chops to make a dry 8% beer unless you entirely construct the recipe around its somewhat low attenuation. I find its great for session IPAs where you dont want it to get too low, but I wouldnt use it for a double IPA given the choice

What about 007 as a possibility. Still has that fruity estery thing but also has the great attenuation you could use on an 8-9% beer without having worrying about it crapping out.
 
From my experience, 1318 attenuates fine (at least 75% to 80%). 8% beers are no problem for that yeast. It makes a smooth beer with a delicate finish just dry enough.

I just bottled a beer using 1318 and got 83% attenuation. However, I realized I did highly overpitched. I'm sure that effected the attenuation some. Finished at 1.010. Worried how much it will effect the mouthfeel. We'll see in a couple of weeks.
 
I just bottled a beer using 1318 and got 83% attenuation. However, I realized I did highly overpitched. I'm sure that effected the attenuation some. Finished at 1.010. Worried how much it will effect the mouthfeel. We'll see in a couple of weeks.

Yeah I've had beers finish as low as 1.006 with this yeast. I bet you'd notice a softer mouthfeel than if you used the Chico strain or other clean fermenting ale yeast and it finished at the same gravity.

To all in this thread is there any evidence that 1318 is the Tree House strain?
 
Yeah I've had beers finish as low as 1.006 with this yeast. I bet you'd notice a softer mouthfeel than if you used the Chico strain or other clean fermenting ale yeast and it finished at the same gravity.



To all in this thread is there any evidence that 1318 is the Tree House strain?


I also went crazy high on flaked oats (well minute oatmeal). Used 17% for grain bill. I'm hoping this will help with mouthfeel and keep it creamy.

To answer your question I believe most just think it's a toss up between Conan or 1318. Maybe some leaning more towards Conan.

There was a Trillium Fort Point clone in a recent BYO magazine that recommended WLP007, Wyeast 1098, or the GigaYeast Vermont Ale. I would think those might get you close too, and to throw a few more yeasts in the mix.
 
I've harvested Treehouse yeast twice now with the first time I think I underpitched to the point that it had Belgian esters in the final beer. This last time was from a few Haze cans and I made sure it was a proper pitch. When I decanted the starter before I pitched, I got those Belgian esters and almost swore it was a Belgian strain but after using The Yeast Bay Vermont strain I've got to say that I got the same attenuation and the fermentation time (seemed sluggish to finish) was also very similar.

I fermented at 63-64 and racked to the keg today. I'm thinking they use Conan but that's just from my own experiences. The thing that baffled me was how clear the starters were when I grew the yeast up every time. You could almost read a newspaper through it!
 
I've harvested Treehouse yeast twice now with the first time I think I underpitched to the point that it had Belgian esters in the final beer. This last time was from a few Haze cans and I made sure it was a proper pitch. When I decanted the starter before I pitched, I got those Belgian esters and almost swore it was a Belgian strain but after using The Yeast Bay Vermont strain I've got to say that I got the same attenuation and the fermentation time (seemed sluggish to finish) was also very similar.

I fermented at 63-64 and racked to the keg today. I'm thinking they use Conan but that's just from my own experiences. The thing that baffled me was how clear the starters were when I grew the yeast up every time. You could almost read a newspaper through it!

This is interesting on a couple points. Conan can throw Belgian esters if fermented to high from what I understand and since most of our starters are not temp controlled the ferment temp prob gets high enough to throw those esters, I noticed that to in my last starter of Conan the oly-52 omega strain. I've also received some hb recently from guys that keg and use Conan and two beers were see through clear, I would've swore they used 001 or 05 or something like that. So with that being said if they do use Conan then it would prob be in line to think all their haze comes from grains or adjuncts like flaked wheat or oats and tremendous late addition, whirlpool and dry hop amounts and maybe dry hop timing so that some of the hop oils stick to the yeast and stay in suspension more than just dropping out, plus their unfiltered anyway.
 
Conan has always been very hazy as far as yeast strains go for me. I havent gotten any harvested from a commercial beer, but Ive gone back and forth between Yeast Bay, Gigayest, and Omega and they were all hazy
 
I have had Conan clean as day, until I dry hop. Then it clouds up and does not settle out. Yeastbay strain
 
I was brewing a harvest batch of beer using Conan a month ago. It was the centennial blonde from this site and I didn't use my temperature control during the start of the fermentation. I think it was around 74F at the start and after I realized what was happening (~1 day since pitch) I moved the fermenter to the temp control chamber and brought it down to 66F. The end result is a perfectly clear beer that has a lot of Belgian esters. Note that the recipe does not call for any dry hop.

I have to admit that I'm surprised that TH might use Conan because most of their beers finish with a relatively high FG - 1.014. The high FG led me to believe that they're using 1318 or some similar variant that doesn't have a high attenuation.
 
I was brewing a harvest batch of beer using Conan a month ago. It was the centennial blonde from this site and I didn't use my temperature control during the start of the fermentation. I think it was around 74F at the start and after I realized what was happening (~1 day since pitch) I moved the fermenter to the temp control chamber and brought it down to 66F. The end result is a perfectly clear beer that has a lot of Belgian esters. Note that the recipe does not call for any dry hop.

I have to admit that I'm surprised that TH might use Conan because most of their beers finish with a relatively high FG - 1.014. The high FG led me to believe that they're using 1318 or some similar variant that doesn't have a high attenuation.


Most beers I've brewed with Conan have finished around 1.012-14. I've always mashed at 152-155 though. I think I've read Heady is mashed at 155 and finishes at 1.012-14.

The thing that I wonder about is Treehouse has been around since 2011 when the Conan strain wasn't around commercially. So if they're using Conan they must've propagated it from cans of Heady and banked it back then. It's crazy to see old pics of Julius when it was pretty clear.
 
Most beers I've brewed with Conan have finished around 1.012-14. I've always mashed at 152-155 though. I think I've read Heady is mashed at 155 and finishes at 1.012-14.

The thing that I wonder about is Treehouse has been around since 2011 when the Conan strain wasn't around commercially. So if they're using Conan they must've propagated it from cans of Heady and banked it back then. It's crazy to see old pics of Julius when it was pretty clear.

That's a pretty high mash temp and conan still puts in work to bring it down to 1.012-14. For the record, the current iteration of Heady finishes at around 1.010.

Do you have any pictures of the old Julius? I'd love to see them!
 
I've harvested Treehouse yeast twice now with the first time I think I underpitched to the point that it had Belgian esters in the final beer. This last time was from a few Haze cans and I made sure it was a proper pitch. When I decanted the starter before I pitched, I got those Belgian esters and almost swore it was a Belgian strain but after using The Yeast Bay Vermont strain I've got to say that I got the same attenuation and the fermentation time (seemed sluggish to finish) was also very similar.

I fermented at 63-64 and racked to the keg today. I'm thinking they use Conan but that's just from my own experiences. The thing that baffled me was how clear the starters were when I grew the yeast up every time. You could almost read a newspaper through it!


Update: This IPA is almost carbed up but obviously not ready yet but I'm getting a strong Belgian smell and taste all of a sudden. I'm dry hopping in the keg with Citra so I guess we'll see if it gets better in the next week. If not I'll probably dump and never propagate their yeast again ha.
 
That's a pretty high mash temp and conan still puts in work to bring it down to 1.012-14. For the record, the current iteration of Heady finishes at around 1.010.

Do you have any pictures of the old Julius? I'd love to see them!

2012 and hazy

tumblr_mch8cuIqx11qluieb.jpg
 
Most beers I've brewed with Conan have finished around 1.012-14. I've always mashed at 152-155 though. I think I've read Heady is mashed at 155 and finishes at 1.012-14.

The thing that I wonder about is Treehouse has been around since 2011 when the Conan strain wasn't around commercially. So if they're using Conan they must've propagated it from cans of Heady and banked it back then. It's crazy to see old pics of Julius when it was pretty clear.

Or they started using Conan after if became commercially available. Many of their beers have been continuously evolving, the yeast strain used in their beers may be no exception.
 
And here is a batch from a few weeks ago:

4gi0cg.jpg


Certainly looks like a different beer. Could it simply be a change in the yeast, or is this a product of process?
 
Not completely clear but definitely not like it is now. Here's a photo from Facebook I believe from late August 2012.

View attachment 350370

well, they started in 2011. if it's actually from 2012, it's entirely possible that it can be boiled down to them basically not having their **** together/still screwing around with everything
 
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