Top 5 things I wish I knew when I first started homebrewing.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kiblerjd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2013
Messages
229
Reaction score
35
UPDATE - THIS POST GOT PUBLISHED AS AN ARTICLE THAT YOU CAN FIND HERE:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/TOP-5.html

If you want to leave a comment navigate to that page and do it there!


I got into homebrewing around 2001. I developed my processes, equipment, and methods based primarily on what I had read in books because there were not a ton (at least that I could find) of references on the internet. I very quickly got into all grain brewing and made some decent beers but I never made a beer that I was really really proud of.

About 5 years ago my daughter was born and I set aside the hobby to change diapers and chase her around the house. I actually got so far out of the hobby at one point I had all of my equipment for sale on craigslist but never sold it. Then around this time last year a buddy I worked with mentioned that he really wanted to get into home brew. I told him I used to be way into it which lead to a lot of discussions about the hobby. He eventually talked me into dusting off the equipment and brewing some beer with him.

I don’t know why, but before I brewed with him I decided that if I was going to start up again I was going to take some time to re-learn the hobby. I tossed away everything I knew and every preconceived notion I had about the “right way to brew” and started from scratch. I read everything I could get my hands on including dang near every thread on this site. I finally brewed with him and the resulting beer was really really good but still not amazing. At that point I started picking away at the things I thought would make it go from good to great. Again I used this site and numerous other resources to pick away at the things that could take me to the next level. I have brewed about a dozen times in the last year fine tuning my process and I can easily say that I’m now brewing “amazing” beer.

So why am I wasting everyone’s time with this post? Well I’m hoping that I can share a few key things that I have learned in the past year and maybe help some new brewers save some time learning this stuff on their own. I’m in no way trying to start a debate and I’m in no way trying to say that I’m some world renown homebrewing expert. All of this stuff can be debated up and down but these things changed the hobby for me and none of them were difficult or expensive at all. I think there are 5 key things I have learned in the past year that have really transformed my beers and here they are. None of this is new information but it may be new to brewers just starting out.

#5 – Brewers Friend – Really it could be any brewing software but after using about 4 different programs, in my personal opinion brewers friend is the most intuitive and user friendly. I used to take really good notes when brewing but the power of brewing software these days is amazing. The key thing here is being able to fine tune the software to your brewing setup. If you take really good measurements such as volumes, lost wort, temperature drops, etc you will very quickly be able to dial in this software to give you accurate estimations for your brew day. This will quickly allow you to get repeatable results with your brewing. The power of these programs is amazing and the more you use them you can tap into the other resources (one of which will be mentioned below).

#4 – Batch sparging – I know this is a subject of much debate and honestly I think the impact this has on your brewing has a lot to do with your equipment. All I can tell you is I used to spend over an hour on the fly sparging part of my day. I would make sure the pH of my sparge water was good and the temp was good then spend a solid hour fly sparging. I decided to give batch sparging a try and I can honestly say I personally will never look back. I think the process is significantly easier and significantly faster (takes me about half the time). The most important thing is that my efficiency is just as good if not better than it was with fly sparging which to me is the entire point. As long as I split the batch sparge for smaller brew days I consistently hit over 80% efficiency. Again this is going to have a lot to do with your equipment and technique. Now that I have everything dialed into my brew software I’m getting very consistent results and I’m saving time in my brew day. There is also less equipment to buy if you are just getting into the hobby. Not looking for a debate here just sharing my experience.

#3 - Yeast Starter / Yeast Harvesting – When I first started brewing I was told liquid yeast is better, dry yeast sucks, and liquid yeast has enough yeast to directly pitch. Looking back this guidance was severely flawed. I noticed a step change in the quality of my beer when I started using a yeast calculator and making starters for my beer. This isn’t just my imagination, my beer got significantly better when I started making starters and pitching the correct amount of yeast. You can use this site to study the science behind this, but do yourself a favor and make a starter if you are using liquid yeast. Also don’t discount the dry yeast because I have had amazing results with this as well. With the dry yeast it is way cheaper and here you don’t necessarily need a starter. Do your own research on this but I’m telling you if you use liquid yeast make a starter. I won’t dive too deep into this next part, but all I’ll say is don’t be afraid to harvest yeast from a previous batch either. I was terrified of this but I have now used it many time successfully and I have saved a boat load of money and it’s actually easy and fun.

#2 – Water Chemistry – This is probably one of the smartest things I ever dove into. Water chemistry is like diving into a never ending rabbit hole. You can go insane with this topic and almost make a new hobby out of it. I didn’t take that approach I took the Charlie Papazian approach and relaxed and had a home brew. I used to mess around with pH meters and finally got sick of it. This time around I decided to trust the power of the brewing software. I sent a sample off to Ward, used that as my baseline water profile, and used brewers friend to fine tune my water and help me figure out what I needed to add. I don’t play with meters, and don’t go crazy with the science, I simply relax and trust the software. The software uses your malt bill and base water profile to perform its calculations. You can pick the style of beer you’re looking to brew and it helps you figure out what to add, including how to adjust the pH of your mash. I can tell you without a question of a doubt tweaking the water chemistry of my mash water was the #1 cause of improving the taste of my beer. After seeing the Ward results from my water and learning a little about chemistry it makes complete sense why something was always a little bit off with my beer. Do yourself the favor and drink some beer while you read a little about water chemistry. I think the brewing software is a key ingredient if you are just diving into this subject.

#1 - Fermcap and the Boil – I just got done saying water chemistry played a huge role in the taste of my beer, now I will tell you this has had the biggest effect on the clarity of my beer. Fermcap is probably the most amazing product I have ever used. I do 13 gallon boils in a 14 gallon pot and could never really boil super hard due to the dreaded boil over. This product allows me to boil very very hard without having to worry about the boil over. I’m telling you it is an amazing product. Once I started being able to get a really really good boil going I noticed that, combined with whirfloc during the last 5 minutes of the boil, that I was getting a significantly better hot break. I was noticing a lot more break material in the kettle before I sent it to the fermenter. This has directly correlated with much clearer beer for me. This is another topic that has been heavily debated but I’m telling you after a lot of other stupid things I tried, this really worked for me and made a huge difference.

I hope this is useful to some new brewers out there. This is an amazing site to be a part of and if you are here you should consider yourself lucky to have found it. There is a wealth of knowledge here and an amazing community of people who enjoy the hobby and are always willing to help.

:mug:
 
Great advise here!

Just switched to batch sparging and have had the same efficiency as with fly.

Fermcap rules. I use it when boiling my starter (1 drop which really works to prevent a boil over) and in my boil which allows a rolling boil I can set up quickly.

Sanitization is also KEY !
 
Submit this as an article and get your free membership.


Sent from my iPhone using the sweet Home Brew app, cuz I'm a ****** and I need everyone to know that I have an iPhone as if everyone else in the world doesn't have one.
 
Good post! I agree with your points- those are near the top of my list for 'best improvements' to the process and product. Kyle
 
Excellent information, especially for a newbie like me. I am still fly sparging, second batch this past weekend, but I may have to give batch sparging a try. Fly sparging just seems much easier? For me anyway.
 
I will add that a game-changer for me was fermentation temperature control. So many new brewers think that the entire acceptable temp range listed on the yeast package is fine and don't take into account the fact that fermentation generates its own heat and the temp inside your fermenter might be much higher than the room your beer is sitting in.

While a great list, I think controlling fermentation temperature is the #1 first thing a brewer should learn about making great beer and something I wish I was more aware of when I started homebrewing.
 
While a great list, I think controlling fermentation temperature is the #1 first thing a brewer should learn about making great beer and something I wish I was more aware of when I started homebrewing.

This ^^^^^:mug:

I've been a 1 gallon brewer for 5 batches and plan to stay until I can get my techniques down, Still mishaps here and there on brewdays.

I started brewing back in march so only a few months,
and always thought ambient temp was perfect, but little did I know about esters and stressing the yeast out, I still have a lot of learning to do. Finally after 3 batches with some off flavors, I was able to keep US-05 at a steady 68* and man my latest batch was pretty decent, I still wanna make better beer.

But for me keeping a good log of every tiny detail (Including temp swings)
and other minuscule things that you don't think matter.

But this list is great, and I hope to learn and move to 2.5 AG by next year!

:off:QUESTION FOR THE VETS:off:

Not trying to HIJACK!

Is there a way to like make a started or split up some liquid yeast VS Having to yeast harvest. I just feel like if there is a way to do this, i could really save money on yeast.

I spend about $3.25 a pack of US-05 per batch, (1 gallon brews) on average im only pitching like 3.5 grams out of the 11G according to the Yeast pitch Calcs.

Thanks..
 
A great read for a new brewer like myself. Was grain crush not something that you needed to get right?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
A great read for a new brewer like myself. Was grain crush not something that you needed to get right?


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Grain crush to me has been more important for efficiency and ease of sparging. I haven't really experience and flavor changes or significant time savings due to my crush or it may have made the list. I got my grain mill set correctly a while back and i don't ever touch it now. Every brewer will probably have their own top 5 i just felt like out of these 5, most brewers would probably have 3 of them on their lists.
 
While a great list, I think controlling fermentation temperature is the #1 first thing a brewer should learn about making great beer and something I wish I was more aware of when I started homebrewing.

Good example of how everyones list may be a bit different. I had a fermentation fridge with temp controller and thermowell etc and in the end found it to be a huge waste of time and effort. I think this one really depends on where you live and where you ferment. I ferment in my basement and i'm lucky because it stays in the 60s down there all year long. In the winter when its colder i put the fermenter off the floor and in the summer i put it right on the concrete. It works perfect for me.

I totally agree with you though. If people ferment in a closet that is maybe sitting at 75 in the summer then the beer could be in the 80's which can be way too high in most cases. So getting that fermenter somewhere where the beer will ferment near the mid range of the yeast's happy zone is key.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Great post...thanks for taking the time to share. I've resisted batch sparing for fear of the all- grain black helicopters finding me. No MORE....I'm going to give it a go...black helicoptors be damned
 
Really great post. I've only batch sparged and people keep telling me to fly sparge but I haven't yet. May never.
 
Really great post. I've only batch sparged and people keep telling me to fly sparge but I haven't yet. May never.


Long time fly sparger, recently been trying batch sparging.... I have to agree with the OP, so much easier. I think I will batch sparge from now on. I was skeptical of the concept, but it seems to work just as well for me.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Water chemistry made the biggest improvement in my brewing. Especially on the light stuff which don't have an excess of flavors to hide behind.
 
Long time fly sparger, recently been trying batch sparging.... I have to agree with the OP, so much easier. I think I will batch sparge from now on. I was skeptical of the concept, but it seems to work just as well for me.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew


When I got into all grain 6 months ago, I was told to batch sparge. I recently was told by the same LHBS to fly sparge. I don't think I will. I just think it's easier for me.
 
Really great post. I've only batch sparged and people keep telling me to fly sparge but I haven't yet. May never.
I've started out with fly sparging, then went to batch sparging. Efficiency went up.

Fly sparging is only better when you get it right. Do it wrong, and things go downhill. Batch sparging is idiot proof.
 
I recently just bought a grain mill and fly sparge instead of batch and my efficiency went up 15 points. Yes fly sparging is longer but I'll take the bump all day. The crush wouldn't of given me that much of a bump. Glad I made the switch.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I agree on temp control being number 1. Sounds like you have a good fermentation cave being your basement, but the biggest improvement in my brewing was temp control.

5- Once I got the hang of brewing software and learned enough about everything to understand what I was doing in it, I really appreciate all the help it is.
4- I never sweated fly sparging. I considered it a later step, but am perfectly happy with batch sparging and do not see the reason to change.
3- Agreed. Next step yeast washing. Why not save a couple bucks. Making starters has helped tremendously already.
2- Havent played with this part yet other than campden tablets to kill off the chloramine-y tap water.
1- A good boil is great. Never have played with fermcap or other boilover preventatives as when I upgraded from the 5 G pot that came with my kit for partial boils and switched to full boils, I made a point to get a pot that had a few extra gallons of capacity for peace of mind. This paired with a wort chiller helped immensely over throwing (I am embarassed to say) bagged ice directly in to top off.
 
Not to detract from the OP's list, but I don't really agree that the elements listed belong in a "Top 5" list of areas that new brewers should focus on. I would consider them more to be things to work on to improve your brewing, after you've already been brewing for a while. In that sense, I think it's a valuable list, I just think the thread title is inappropriate.

Brewing software - Makes brewing easier, but newbies can simply follow a recipe, or even better, buy a pre-packaged kit of ingredients.

Batch sparging - Don't most newbies start with extract, or BIAB? Once moving to all grain, batch sparging isn't really some sort of "secret" that is kept from new brewers - isn't it pretty much the default method of sparging that is taught in books nowadays?

Yeast starter/harvesting - A definite way to improve your beer, but overkill for newbies. Simply pitching enough yeast (dry or liquid, starter or just additional packs) is adequate.

Water chemistry - Way too complicated for newbie brewers. If your tap water tastes fine, use it. If not, buy jugs of bottled spring water from your grocery store. If your tap water contains chlorine or cloramines, sprinkle in a 1/4 Campden tablet per 5 gallons.

Fermcap - Better to use an appropriately sized kettle, in my opinion.

If I were making a list of the top 5 most-important things for true newbies to know, it would look like this:


  • Temperature control at all stages - Mash temperature matters. Fermentation temperature is absolutely critical, and the single most important factor in making good beer, in my opinion. Temperature after bottling, while carbing, matters (storing at 60 will take much longer to carb up than storing at 70).
  • Aeration - Aerate the wort thoroughly to ensure the yeast aren't stressed.
  • Yeast calculator - Use a yeast calculator like Mr. Malty to ensure you're pitching enough yeast to get the job done without stressing them.
  • Grain crush - Most LHBS's set their mills to err on the side of "too coarse." This is to avoid customers coming back and complaining about stuck sparges. However, grain crush is the most important factor affecting efficiency. If a newbie is finding they're constantly coming in 10 points below their target O.G., grain crush is the first thing they should examine.
  • Sanitization - Very important in every stage post-boil.
 
  • Temperature control at all stages - Mash temperature matters. Fermentation temperature is absolutely critical, and the single most important factor in making good beer, in my opinion. Temperature after bottling, while carbing, matters (storing at 60 will take much longer to carb up than storing at 70).
  • Aeration - Aerate the wort thoroughly to ensure the yeast aren't stressed.
  • Yeast calculator - Use a yeast calculator like Mr. Malty to ensure you're pitching enough yeast to get the job done without stressing them.
  • Grain crush - Most LHBS's set their mills to err on the side of "too coarse." This is to avoid customers coming back and complaining about stuck sparges. However, grain crush is the most important factor affecting efficiency. If a newbie is finding they're constantly coming in 10 points below their target O.G., grain crush is the first thing they should examine.
  • Sanitization - Very important in every stage post-boil.

A very good point. How quickly I forget that I started with extract and haven't even been brewing for a year. :eek:

Initially speaking, I agree that temperature control is indeed key and a missed "lesson" provided by any LHBS that I have visited. Sanitization is obvious but indeed key to state. I would say that grain crush lies more or less with "next" things to learn if you're starting with extract, which many do. I know some start out with all grain right away, but majority is extract as far as I can tell.

Either way, there are indeed things I wish I knew on my first batch but the things I did not know I learned by the second batch. The biggest was fermentation temperature control. I had no idea and had a hefe with lots of citrusy off flavors. Hefe being very forgiving was still decent but obviously it was important to know that 80F is not an okay ferm temp for a hefe using US-05 yeast.


I think brewing software is important from the beginning though. It is incredibly helpful and the best $20 I could have spent after my first batch.
 
I recently just bought a grain mill and fly sparge instead of batch and my efficiency went up 15 points. Yes fly sparging is longer but I'll take the bump all day. The crush wouldn't of given me that much of a bump. Glad I made the switch.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

It's entirely possible that your mill and crush accounted for the boost in efficiency alone.
 
Keep in mind i posted this in the all-grain section making the assumption that if you were there you already had the basic knowledge and you were looking to step up to to all-grain. I guess i could have been more specific but when i said new brewers i meant new all-grain brewers. I could spend the time to debate everything you typed but like i said the point wasn't to start a debate, i just wanted to share my experience.
 
In that sense, I think it's a valuable list, I just think the thread title is inappropriate.

Also keep in mind the title is "Top 5 things I wish I knew when I first started homebrewing."

Article was meant to be my experience... nothing more.

Yeast calculator - Use a yeast calculator like Mr. Malty to ensure you're pitching enough yeast to get the job done without stressing them.

Isn't that what I said?

Water chemistry - Way too complicated for newbie brewers. If your tap water tastes fine, use it. If not, buy jugs of bottled spring water from your grocery store. If your tap water contains chlorine or cloramines, sprinkle in a 1/4 Campden tablet per 5 gallons.

Last thing i'm going to comment on but i completely disagree with you. If you are an extract brewer this philosophy is accurate, but if you are doing all grain it isn't that complicated and your water is not necessarily good enough just because it tastes good. My water tastes great, but when i got a sample and looked at my typical malt bill my pH was significantly too high and it was causing off flavors in every one of my brews. So if someone is just getting into all grain the $27 for the water sample is money well spent in my opinion. Your IPA's will thank you because a very light malt bill doesn't have what it takes to get the pH into an acceptable range depending on your water.
 
It was a good post with a title that complimented the content.


Sent from my iPhone using the sweet Home Brew app, cuz I'm a ****** and I need everyone to know that I have an iPhone as if everyone else in the world doesn't have one.
 
Article was meant to be my experience... nothing more.

So we weren't supposed to discuss the content and offer our own opinions? We were just supposed to read what one nameless stranger on the Internet wished he'd known, then move on to the next thread, without adding our own opinions or suggestions? You were just expecting a series of "Thanks for the insight into your fascinating life!" posts?

(Re: Yeast)Isn't that what I said?

You mentioned yeast starters, which I think is asking too much of a new brewer. I instead advised using a yeast calculator to determine how much yeast you need, then just reaching that amount by pitching enough packets of dry or liquid yeast.
 
You know I deal with this every day at work because written text (email) is so easy to misinterpret. Sometimes I wish I could have these conversations in person because really I think we would see eye to eye. If you are ever in the Albany NY area and want to brew a batch look me up. I fully welcome all of the feedback from everyone on this site and I think that's part of what makes this site great. I took your post as kind of "kombative" but either way your opinions are just as valid as mine and just as welcomed. So cheers to you.

As far as the yeast starter thing goes my comment was "I noticed a step change in the quality of my beer when I started using a yeast calculator and making starters for my beer." I would rather see a new brewer learn to make a starter as opposed to spending double the money on yeast per batch. No way should a beginner be worried about washing yeast but I guess in my eyes the starter is no more complicated than making a small extract batch without hops. I feel like we are actually agreeing with each other here we are just saying it differently. A brand spanking new brewer should probably use dry yeast and not have to worry about any of this. When they get a little experience I think the liquid yeast and starter should be an easy transition.

Again cheers and thanks for the comments.






Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
I posted this on the article page and figured i would discuss it here as well.

I figured since I wrote this article I would refrain from being lazy and do the research on fermcap-s. The active ingredient in fermcap-s is polydimethylsiloxane which is commonly referred to as dimethicone. Dimethicone is used in a ton of food and non-food stuff, however medical companies mix dimethicone with silica gel which makes simethicone. Simethicone is in just about every stomach illness or digestive related medicine you can think of such as rolaids, mylanta, infant gas drops, etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simethicone

If i had to guess, the company that makes fermcap-s probably puts silica gel in this product to make it simethicone but either way it doesn't matter because its all the same stuff.

So i will never argue with anyone who doesn't put extra chemicals in their beer, that is just a no brainer. But as far as this product goes the reality is that everyone reading this post has at some point in their lives eaten this stuff whether it be in a rolaid or a McDonalds french fry. If its good enough to stick in my baby's bottle it's good enough to stick in my beer. So if you want to take some stress out of your brew day because your pot is a little on the small side, I think fermcap-s is a pretty safe product to use.

Just my 2 cents. I hope this helps.
 
I'm not trying to knock your list, but I find it odd that your Top 5 doesn't include fermentation temperature control. That's easily the biggest influence on brewing great and consistent beer, especially since we're now in June.

Agree with you on starters and yeast pitching calculators. That would be #2 on my personal list. The idea that making a starter would be challenging is laughable. Boil water, add pre-measured weight of LDME, cool, and pitch yeast. If they can't handle that, they shouldn't be brewing in the first place.
 
I'm not trying to knock your list, but I find it odd that your Top 5 doesn't include fermentation temperature control. That's easily the biggest influence on brewing great and consistent beer, especially since we're now in June.

Agree with you on starters and yeast pitching calculators. That would be #2 on my personal list. The idea that making a starter would be challenging is laughable. Boil water, add pre-measured weight of LDME, cool, and pitch yeast. If they can't handle that, they shouldn't be brewing in the first place.

I think there was just some confusion over the intent of this thread. OP was posting this from a perspective that he already knew about temperature control. He took a short break from brewing and when he reengaged, these are 5 new things that he learned and wanted to share. If this was a thread about the top 5 things to improve your beer after you brew your first kit, I would concur that temp control would be at the top of that list.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top