To trim or not to trim

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blackschnauzer

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This is a second year cascade plant. I already cut it back once, but with all this warm so cal weather, my plants keep sprouting up again. Should I cut it down once more or let it go? When does "spring" actually start around here? It's sunny and warm 364 days a year here!

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Tough saying as they require a dormant period to grow properly. I've never had to deal with it but have heard and read that if proper dormancy conditions are not met, your harvest can be almost nil. Keep us posted on your crop.
 
Well, they were dormant for a few months, three or four months maybe? I think I will just let them grow... I'll keep you posted. The one I posted is by far the most active. Ive got three cascade, one chinook, one magnum and one Columbus plant. They were all first year plants last year.
 
I have a similar issue here in Texas with the lack of a true winter. I waited until late December to cut down my plants completely. Mid February one of them began sprouting already. The other 2 that I had from last year are just now starting to come up. Hoping that they got enough vernalization during that time.
 
I would suggest that next year you mulch heavily with something like wood chips, and them pull them back after the last frost date. (If you have one) Keeping the soil cool, will keep the plants dormant.
 
I would suggest that next year you mulch heavily with something like wood chips, and them pull them back after the last frost date. (If you have one) Keeping the soil cool, will keep the plants dormant.

LOL frost date. We're in SoCal, it's a rare year we have even one below freezing day. low 40's is even rare. 72º and sunny, that's basically the unofficial weather forecast year round here.

I cut mine back after harvest around November last year. They're just starting to sprout now. Gonna let them go and see what happens.
 
To me those look like viable shoots. The less productive bull shoots will grow quite quickly and have a large than average distance between the leaf nodes. Tough to say when they are that short though but i think you're fine.
 
Ha well, I actually did end up cutting them after I said I wouldn't, and I am already getting more popping up again..... Definitely going to let them go now!
 
To me those look like viable shoots. The less productive bull shoots will grow quite quickly and have a large than average distance between the leaf nodes. Tough to say when they are that short though but i think you're fine.

Would these be considered bull shoots? I can trim it back still as the others are just more sprouting and have much darker leaves.
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This is a second year Sorachi Ace for reference.
 
hahaha! it was a joke, ive never heard the term bull shoot before.... im guessing its the first sprouts that come up that usually get trimmed back? or maybe the ones with the horns.
 
Hah sorry. After reading a bit more, it seems like I don't have to worry too much about bull shoots in Texas, so I'm not going to trim anything anymore.
 
So I am no expert but have grown hops is San Diego for some time and have noticed that if I train shoots to the lined too early then they'll grow like gang-busters for a bit and then stall out.

It's tempting to get them started early and I usually let some go to reaffirm the theory. However the best results I've had are from plants that I hack back and start to train to lines in May. This year has had an early start because of how warm it was in February. Since you have several plants, you could experiment and let some do their thing now and hold some off for later.
 
hahaha! it was a joke, ive never heard the term bull shoot before.... im guessing its the first sprouts that come up that usually get trimmed back? or maybe the ones with the horns.

Bull shoots are the first fast growing shoots, they are thicker than the later shoots and the nodes are farther apart. The plant sends them up first as a trellis since wild plants don't have humans to provide nice coir lines to grow on. They also are hollow, thus later in the season they are prone to breaking in wind storms. The hollow core is a great place for downy mildew, molds and other diseases to take up residence. The wider spacing provides for fewer side arms which means fewer cones. By trimming them back it allows the later shoots to grow faster by not having to compete for the plants energy.
 
I read you should let them go 12 to 18 inches before you cut. you may wish to wait a little longer because it is so early in the season. The important thing in cutting now it to time when the mature plant wants to flower with the photoperiod which is when the plants switch from vegetative growth to the flowering and is dependent on the ratio of light to dark hours in the day.
 
I read you should let them go 12 to 18 inches before you cut. you may wish to wait a little longer because it is so early in the season. The important thing in cutting now it to time when the mature plant wants to flower with the photoperiod which is when the plants switch from vegetative growth to the flowering and is dependent on the ratio of light to dark hours in the day.

This is how I understand it as well. Basic Brewing Radio just did a podcast and interviewed a hop grower. The grower said you want the bines to be up at the top of the trellis by the time the Summer solstice/Longest Day of the year rolls around as the shift in amount of daylight will trigger the vegatative to flowering. The trick is figuring out when to cut back vs. when to let them go/climb. He mentioned that in warmer climes you will likely have to prune back multiple times. Hope this helps, and don't quote me on any of this. I am still learning.
 

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