Tips for first time pH monitor user??

[stuknkrvl]

I just got a Milwaukee Intruments pH56 meter so I can start keeping track of my mash pH, but I really don't know how to go about it.

When is the best time to check the pH of my mash/wort?

Do I pull a sample of the wort and check it, or dunk the meter directly in to the mash?

Any help and advice is appreciated!

 

[Gavin C]

Mash pH is a dynamic thing.

It is advisable to take a mash sample 20-30 mins into the mash. It doesn't matter if you have grains in the sample.

Cool the sample to the same temperature you calibrated your meter at. Typically this will be room temperature ~75F

It is not a good idea to place the meter's probe in a hotter sample for two reasons.

• The pH will be lower than at room temperature. (pH readings are typically referenced at room temperature)
  
• Exposure to hotter fluids can shorten the lifespan of a probe.

Don't try to make any adjustments on the fly to your mash pH. Simply compare the actual pH to the planned pH and tweak any future adjustments to subsequent mashes. This is particular useful if brewing the same or a very similar beer at a later date.

Example: Bru'n water typically predicts my mash pH to be 0.1 higher than I measure it to be so I allow for that in my mash planning. ( I use acidulated malt as needed). If I want a pH of 5.4 I target 5.5 in the software*.

*I'm not knocking the great software tool. This error may not be simply related to the software but is possibly due to cumulative errors in my exixting water report from over a year ago and calibration errors on my part.

Another way to nail things down is by doing a minimash and testing it. The same water and grain ratios must apply if this is to be of use. I have not done this as yet.

Hope this helps.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

I just got a Milwaukee Intruments pH56 meter so I can start keeping track of my mash pH, but I really don't know how to go about it.

When is the best time to check the pH of my mash/wort?

Do I pull a sample of the wort and check it, or dunk the meter directly in to the mash?

Any help and advice is appreciated!

I like to take all of my pH readings while the liquid is at room temperature, it's easier on the probe, will give more accurate readings and will prolong it's life. I suggest you take your time calibrating the meter before taking your readings too. Another thing I've learned is to never store the meter away and let the bulb dry out, they're expensive to replace if your meter uses replaceable probes. I store mine away in storage solution and make it a point to calibrate the meter once a month whether I'm brewing or not. Hope this helps.

 

[stuknkrvl]

Mash pH is a dynamic thing.

It is advisable to take a mash sample 20-30 mins into the mash. It doesn't matter if you have grains in the sample.

Cool the sample to the same temperature you calibrated your meter at. Typically this will be room temperature ~75F

It is not a good idea to place the meter's probe in a hotter sample for two reasons.

• The pH will be lower than at room temperature. (pH readings are typically referenced at room temperature)
  
• Exposure to hotter fluids can shorten the lifespan of a probe.

Don't try to make any adjustments on the fly to your mash pH. Simply compare the actual pH to the planned pH and tweak any future adjustments to subsequent mashes. This is particular useful if brewing the same or a very similar beer at a later date.

Example: Bru'n water typically predicts my mash pH to be 0.1 higher than I measure it to be so I allow for that in my mash planning. ( I use acidulated malt as needed). If I want a pH of 5.4 I target 5.5 in the software*.

*I'm not knocking the great software tool. This error may not be simply related to the software but is possibly due to cumulative errors in my exixting water report from over a year ago and calibration errors on my part.

Another way to nail things down is by doing a minimash and testing it. The same water and grain rations must apply if this is to be of use. I have not done this as yet.

Hope this helps.

I've seen Martin's Bru'n Water software download. Is it fairly intuitive? As is, I do all my water mods by hand calculation based on figures from my water report and Palmer's Water.

I'm at a point now where I think I understand water mods, I have my temperature control down fairly well (still need a true fermentation fridge, but getting there), and I have my equipment fairly well dialed in for mash efficiency, so mash pH is the next frontier for me.

I have strike water heating up in the kettle as I type this, so I'm excited, curious, and a bit nervous to see how this comes out.

 

[pretzelb]

I've seen Martin's Bru'n Water software download. Is it fairly intuitive?

It's very detailed but I've failed to understand it in two brief feeble attempts. I'm in the same boat as you and I hope to start controlling my water moving forward. I have the meter, just need a plan. Good luck.

 

[Gavin C]

pH is the next frontier for me.

Boldly going where......


Best of luck with the brew. I must admit, I get a great sense of geeky satisfaction when my actual mash pH reflects my planned pH.

 

[SEndorf]

IMHO, Bru'n Water is the most complete tool. Looks a bit intimidating at first, but once you read the tutorial and get it dialed in it's very useful.

 

[frettfreak]

all good advice here. though i tend to take my samples a little earlier and adjust from there. I have used brun'water and still do on a regular basis (awesome spreadsheet.. use it if you can) but found my water to fluctuate QUITE a bit (my water comes from a couple different reservoirs depending on the time of year) so sometimes its a bit off (again, not the spreadsheets fault).

What I have started doing is planning my brew based off the spreadsheet. However, i usually start with half the acid addtion planned, take my PH reading after 15 min, and adjust using an 88% lactic acid solution from there. 1ml, usually gets me around 0.1% drop in ph. Not ideal but it works well and i usually nail my mash PH now.

As far as any other advice beside what you have already been told by others, I would say if it has been a while since your last use, calibrate the probe before each brew day. Unless you are brewing every week, then maybe every other time? For me, ph calibration solution is cheap, and an easy way to make sure everything is correct so i check it every brew day.

If you do use the spreadsheet, send your water in to ward labs and get it tested for sure. Its less than $30 and then you will know for sure what you are getting into your beer/

 

[BrewerBrad82]

I agree with @ScrewyBrewer, treat your pH meter well and it will last a long time.

- Keep a stash of calibration standards (4.01 and 7.01) on hand at all times and calibrate often.

- NEVER store the probe dry. Store the meter with the probe submerged in dedicated storage solution, 4.01 calibration standard, or tap water. Do not use distilled or RO for storage.

- Allow your mash to rest for ~20 before drawing a sample, try to get the clearest wort possible.

- Let the sample come down to room temp before taking a reading

 

[Gavin C]

This is from another recent thread of a similar topic. Hope this may be useful in some small way. I am no expert but this is how I tackle water chemistry for all my brews. Here is my post. Don't know if this is of use you you.

______________________________________________________




Step 1: Build the water

• Determine the mineral content in your brewing water via a Ward Labs report or use RO water (essentially zero mineral values or negligibly close to 0)
• Determine the water profile you want based on the type of beer your making and personal tastes
• Make the appropriate dilutions of tap-water with RO water to reduce ion levels as needed and add minerals you want to add ions as needed. (Do not use chalk)

Water Adjustment Tool

Step 2: Control mash pH

• Using the adjusted water from above, the grain-bill and planned water volume to calculate a predicted mash pH with an online tool (I use Bru'n Water, it's great)
• Make adjustments if needed to add the required acid (there are some extreme examples where adding alkali may be needed but this is not something I have ever encountered and can't feasibly see this ever occurring)
• Measure mash pH using a well calibrated effective pH meter (pass on the cheapo's, waste of money, as are the strips)
• Compare the predicted with the actual mash pH and note the difference. Use this information to tailor future acid additions.
• Mash pH can be nailed down with some accuracy as your data set grows.
• *A test mimi-mash is another useful tool.

Mash Acidification Calculation

All mashes require acid to get the pH into the target range. This acid comes in various forms. Some of these can be used in any given mash.

• Acid malt
• Roast malt
• Crystal malt
• Added lactic/phosphoric acid
• Largely impractical: Carrying out a beta-glucan rest (for hours) with poorly modified malts

Measuring Mash pH 20-30 minutes into a mash

The thinner the mash the more acid is needed to achieve the same pH as a thicker mash of the same grains with the same water.

Tackle water profile and mash pH completely separately and it's very simple

• Don't concern yourself with the pH of mash water
• Sparge water may need to be acidified with lactic/phosphoric acid
• Don't try to adjust mash pH with mineral additions. Use acid in one or more of the forms previously listed.

I'm not suggesting this is the only way to tackle water chemistry. My approach is simple, based in reasonable science, effective and repeatable. It makes perfect sense to me to do it this way. It is resulting in beers with flavors I enjoy.

Edit: Campden tablets are essential if using water like mine with Chloramine in it. 1/3 tablet for my ~7.5 gallon brewing water.

 

[pretzelb]

[*]Determine the water profile you want based on the type of beer your making and personal tastes

This always trips me up. How in the heck am I supposed to know this? It seems to me that a beginner should just focus on one variable at a time and I think that means ph in this case. But the beginner instructions appear to want and get you to jump right in feet first. I am going to try again this week or next but I expected the first steps to be entering your water info and your grain bill and then getting back a recommendation on how to hit target mash ph.

 

[Gavin C]

This always trips me up. How in the heck am I supposed to know this? It seems to me that a beginner should just focus on one variable at a time and I think that means ph in this case. But the beginner instructions appear to want and get you to jump right in feet first. I am going to try again this week or next but I expected the first steps to be entering your water info and your grain bill and then getting back a recommendation on how to hit target mash ph.

This is not that tricky really.

Are you brewing a Dark, amber or yellow beer.

Is it malty, bitter or balanced

Is it a lager or ale. (General and very crude rule, but lagers may benefit from a softer water profile)

Have you enjoyed beers of similar styles in the past and are trying to emulate them. If so, what do you know about the water used.

I keep it simple and stick with the profiles in Bru'n water based on color and balance. If I'm making a Helles, I'll use a malty yellow beer profile. I tend to steer clear of geographical profiles. An alt would be an amber balanced profile.

Next time I make my Helles I can look at the water I used and tweak it based on what I want to improve and any research that will shed light on how to make those improvements. (Better can be the enemy of good of course so trial and error is inherrent to brewing particularly with egard to personal tastes). For this kind of refinement all the other players in dictating flavor should be solid.

Example: Tweaking a sulphate content but not using a healthy pitch rate or not having adequate control of fermentation will in all liklihood be a waste of time as these will have a much greater effect on the beer's flavor profile.

 

[stuknkrvl]

Okay, so I calibrated the meter (several times just to be sure) and then I checked the pH twice - once on the first runnings from the mash and then again after all my wort was collected and I gave everything a good stir. I got 5.27 and 5.42 respectively.

I'm assuming this is good?

I'm brewing an amber ale recipe I made up last week. Here's the goods...

OG - 1.053
IBU - 32

8 lbs 12 oz Maris
1 lb 8 oz crystal 40
4 oz Cara aroma
4 oz Chocolate malt

1.5 oz Willamette (6.5% aa) @60
0.75 oz Willamette @20

Water profile (adjusted from 1:3 tap/RO with additions of gypsum, calcium chloride, and mag sulfate)

Ca 86
Total Alk (CaCO3) 98
Cl 71
Na 5
Mg 27
SO4 138
Residual Alk 21

So was this just a happy accident that I hit a good pH?

Is it reasonable to expect I'll hit similar numbers the next time I brew this?

Which of these pH values is the actual "mash pH"? Should I average them out for my brew log records?

 

[stuknkrvl]

This always trips me up. How in the heck am I supposed to know this? It seems to me that a beginner should just focus on one variable at a time and I think that means ph in this case. But the beginner instructions appear to want and get you to jump right in feet first. I am going to try again this week or next but I expected the first steps to be entering your water info and your grain bill and then getting back a recommendation on how to hit target mash ph.

Probably the biggest evolution in my brewing practice, so to speak, was reading John Palmer's book Water. Chemistry wasn't my strong suit in school so I found it a bit heady at times, but once I studied it for a bit and started really planning out my brew day I feel like the quality of my beer before I started doing water mods and after is exponentially improved. There's a number of extremely useful tables in the book that make water mods intuitively simple if you ask me.

Another tip is to call your water company and get somebody on the phone who can give you your mineral profile. It took me a few phone calls to actually get someone on the phone who understood what I was looking for, but the instant I told the guy I'm a home brewer he knew exactly what I needed and was super helpful. Bonus - it was free. It's probably not as spot on accurate as sending a sample in to Ward for analysis, but it's a solid starting point for a beginning brewer like myself.

Good luck!

 

[Gavin C]

Your mash pH is 5.27

You don't average runnings' pH values.

Measure the pH of the mash which will be that of the first runnings.

Also there is no need to make any mineral additions to raise Mg levels. Once it's below a certain level, that is the important thing.

 

[gbx]

Read AJ's guides on the brew science forum:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=128

specifically his guide to pH meter use and calibration
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=302256

 

[stuknkrvl]

Your mash pH is 5.27

You don't average runnings' pH values.

Measure the pH of the mash which will be that of the first runnings.

Also there is no need to make any mineral additions to raise Mg levels. Once it's below a certain level, that is the important thing.

Thanks, Gavin.

Can you explain why it's the value from the first runnings? I realize it's not correct, but it just makes more sense to me (due to my inexperience) that I should collect all the wort and give it a good stir before obtaining a reading like I do for my pre-boil gravity.

By the by, I had heard about mag levels from Martin. I used the mag sulfate because I wanted to raise the sulfate levels without cranking up my calcium levels.

 

[Gavin C]

Thanks, Gavin.

Can you explain why it's the value from the first runnings? I realize it's not correct, but it just makes more sense to me (due to my inexperience) that I should collect all the wort and give it a good stir before obtaining a reading like I do for my pre-boil gravity.

By the by, I had heard about mag levels from Martin. I used the mag sulfate because I wanted to raise the sulfate levels without cranking up my calcium levels.

You want to measure mash pH. That is measured by sampling the mash either directly from the mash-tun or indirectly from the first runnings at the end of the mash. I favor the former approach but I BIAB using full-volume so there are only "first runnings" for my setup.

Once you sparge there is a very different ratio of sugars to water so the pH will be higher. If you sparge a second time it will be higher again, a third time higher etc. This is why fly-spargers have to closely monitor the pH of the runnings as it will gradually increase as they sparge. A rising pH and hot temperatures can result in astringent flavors.

Mixing the runnings in the boil kettle and measuring pH gives you a reading of kettle or preboil pH. This is another data point that many brewers record and make adjustments to. (I do not do this)

At this point I only concern myself with planning, tailoring and accurately measuring mash pH. I sample the mash directly.


On the magnesium. I am certainly not qualified to disagree with @mabrungard on any brewing topic, especially anything water related. Your levels of Mg do seem very high to me though. I would expect you to have sufficient Mg levels with the 25% tap water you used for your water. Single figure ppm values are normally indicated.

 

[stuknkrvl]

On the magnesium. I am certainly not qualified to disagree with @mabrungard on any brewing topic, especially anything water related. Your levels of Mg do seem very high to me though. I would expect you to have sufficient Mg levels with the 25% tap water you used for your water. Single figure ppm values are normally indicated.

Let me clarify - when I said I had heard about mag levels from @mabrungard I only meant that he had told me - like you're saying - you don't need to add a bunch of magnesium to the brewing liquor. I'm still struggling to understand this all myself. I hope I didn't come off as sarcastic in my earlier post, as that wasn't my intention at all. I really appreciate your help and advice.

Is there a negative effect associated with too much mag?

 

[Gavin C]

I hope I didn't come off as sarcastic in my earlier post, as that wasn't my intention at all. I really appreciate your help and advice.

Is there a negative effect associated with too much mag?

Never thought anything of the sort mate. This is a topic like many about which I have a lot to learn so would only be too happy to be corrected if disseminating bad advice.

I'm not sure exactly but too much Mg would likely increase the residual alkalinity of the brewing water and could in higher levels go beyond the taste threshold and perhaps give a metallic flavor. I'm guessing here though. It essentially a mineral we should get too concerned over other than ensuring that we are using water with low levels of it.

While writing this I just went to the Bru'n water page and read this.

__________________________________
Magnesium is typically the secondary ion creating hardness in water. It accentuates flavor with a sour bitterness when present at low concentration, but it is astringent at high concentration. Magnesium is a yeast nutrient and an important co-factor for certain enzymes. Like calcium, magnesium reacts with the malt to lower the mash pH, but with a reduced effect compared to calcium. The preferred range for magnesium concentration is 0 to 30 ppm. Exceeding 40 ppm is not recommended. A minimum of 5 ppm magnesium is known to be desirable for good yeast flocculation, however a typical barley or wheat mash grist will contribute more than 5 ppm magnesium to the wort for proper yeast flocculation and it is not necessary to add magnesium to brewing water unless it is desired for its flavor effects. Increasing the magnesium content of mash water is not a useful tool for reducing the pH of the mash water since the allowable concentration range for this ion is small.
____________________________________________

A much better explanation that I can give

 

[stuknkrvl]

Seems this thread has morphed in to a water conversation, so I'm gonna pick your brain @GavinC

Here's the mineral profile I got when I called my water company -

Ca 57
Total Alk (CaCO3) 295
Cl 22
Na 16
Mg 41
SO4 26-48 (I assume a middle range number of 37)
Total Hardness 316

For this batch, following recommendations from Palmer's book, I cut my water 1:2 tap:RO (think I messed up in the earlier post and said 1:3), which yields a mag level of 14. That also leaves me with significantly low calcium, chloride, and sulfate levels (19, 7, and 12 respectively). I wanted to build everything up but I also wanted to keep the sulfate levels relatively low (recommendations from the book were 100-300) because, again on advice from @mabrungard, I want this to be a malt forward brew.

Palmer says for this brew (a medium gravity, amber ale with moderate hop assertiveness), desired mineral levels are Ca (50-150), Cl (50-100), Alkalinity (40-120), sulfate (100-300), and residual alkalinity (0-60).

If this were your brew, what would you do to raise the calcium, chloride, and sulfate to appropriate levels without raising the mag too much?

 

[Gavin C]

Seems this thread has morphed in to a water conversation, so I'm gonna pick your brain @GavinC

Here's the mineral profile I got when I called my water company -

Ca 57
Total Alk (CaCO3) 295
Cl 22
Na 16
Mg 41
SO4 26-48 (I assume a middle range number of 37)
Total Hardness 316

For this batch, following recommendations from Palmer's book, I cut my water 1:2 tap:RO (think I messed up in the earlier post and said 1:3), which yields a mag level of 14. That also leaves me with significantly low calcium, chloride, and sulfate levels (19, 7, and 12 respectively). I wanted to build everything up but I also wanted to keep the sulfate levels relatively low (recommendations from the book were 100-300) because, again on advice from @mabrungard, I want this to be a malt forward brew.

Palmer says for this brew (a medium gravity, amber ale with moderate hop assertiveness), desired mineral levels are Ca (50-150), Cl (50-100), Alkalinity (40-120), sulfate (100-300), and residual alkalinity (0-60).

If this were your brew, what would you do to raise the calcium, chloride, and sulfate to appropriate levels without raising the mag too much?

The first thing to say is. Sorry if I derailed your thread.

Secondly.

The method of targeting a specific RA value is to the best of my knowledge a somewhat if not wholly discredited approach. I belive you are quoting Palmer's Howtobrew rather than the water book.

With your Mg level down to 14 I would not want it any higher so no Mg additions.

Those are very broad ranges for the minerals. 300ppm for sulphate is not something I would be willing to brew with.

Later on if you want I can crunch the numbers and give you what I would do rightly or wrongly for you or anyone else to see.

 

[stuknkrvl]

The first thing to say is. Sorry if I derailed your thread.

Secondly.

The method of targeting a specific RA value is to the best of my knowledge a somewhat if not wholy discredited approach. I belive you are quoting Palmer's Howtobrew rather than the water book.

With your Mg level down to 14 I would not want it any higher so no Mg additions.

Those are very broad ranges for the minerals. 300ppm for sulphate is not something I would be willing to brew with.

Later on if you want I can crunch the numbers and give you what I would do rightly or wrongly for you or anyone else to see.

Not derailed at all. I'm happy to take this anywhere it goes. I'm always happy to learn something new.

Maybe Palmer poached his own info from How to Brew for the Water book, but I've never read How to Brew.

I'd be very interested in seeing what you'd do to adjust the water profile. My intention with this amber recipe is to have a "house ale" so anything I can do to make this taste better is much appreciated.

Thanks for taking the time!

 

[Gavin C]

Thanks for taking the time!

No worries. Happy to do it.

Are those the only numbers you have? I may not have all the required info.

Water pH is missing. That is needed.

 

[BigusD]

Beginner Brewer here.

My ph meter is old though. 7years or better since last touch (prior to brew use). Stored in garage (hot and frozen). A Milwaukee. Buffer and cleaning Chems the same. Just broke it out to test my water (matched the ward labs test). Matched my buffer calibration Chems. Matched my brewn water calculated adjustments. Matched the expected temp induced errors.
An excellent piece of equipment. Neglected and accurate.
There's my two cents.

 

[stuknkrvl]

No worries. Happy to do it.

Are those the only numbers you have? I may not have all the required info.

Water pH is missing. That is needed.

Free chlorine 2.0 (I just let that evaporate out over night)
pH 7.8
Total dissolved solids 316
Bicarb Alkalinity 360
My current RA (calculated from equation RA = Total Alk (CaCO3 ppm) - (Ca/1.4) - (Mg/1.7)) 230

 

[Gavin C]

..

This is what I would do. With more complete information you will be able to control mash pH. As is stands the report you have is incomplete.







Edit: That last image should read Dihydrate not dyhyrate

 

[pretzelb]

This is not that tricky really.

Are you brewing a Dark, amber or yellow beer.

Is it malty, bitter or balanced

Is it a lager or ale. (General and very crude rule, but lagers may benefit from a softer water profile)

Have you enjoyed beers of similar styles in the past and are trying to emulate them. If so, what do you know about the water used.

I keep it simple and stick with the profiles in Bru'n water based on color and balance. If I'm making a Helles, I'll use a malty yellow beer profile. I tend to steer clear of geographical profiles. An alt would be an amber balanced profile.

Maybe I'm missing something because I haven't paid for Bru'n yet but the key here is it all assumes I already know every aspect of my target water profile. I'm not sure how I'm supposed to know that and I don't see any profiles based on style. I'm struggling just to understand all the aspects of my water profile let alone researching a good basic target for something like an American IPA. I just took another quick look at Bru'n and it still strikes me as something where you need to know just about everything before you can begin to using it.

Maybe I'm not understanding the very basics of this but it seems like you should be able to plug in your water and grains and get an estimate out for your mash ph. If the results indicates you won't hit the target range, then you should also be able to easily get some recommendations on how to do simple adjustments to hit that target ph.

 

[Gavin C]

Maybe I'm missing something because I haven't paid for Bru'n yet

Try the free version. It's really good

it all assumes I already know every aspect of my target water profile.

It does not do the planning for you. That is for the brewer to decide on the target profile. I just keep it simple, color and balance dictate the target profile.

Maybe I'm not understanding the very basics of this but it seems like you should be able to plug in your water and grains and get an estimate out for your mash ph.

This is exactly what it does. It does not give your recommendations as it does not know what you intend the mash pH to be. There are some listed guidelines depending on the color of the beer but these are just pointers in the paid version.

It is only as good as the data you feed it though as you can see above. Incomplete data will prevent mash pH prediction but still allows one to build a decent water profile.

Get the free version and start playing with it. There is a lot of great information in it to boot. If nothing else read this bit and it will benefit you tremendously. Water building, adjustment and controlling mash pH is really not all that hard once you start doing it.

When described in text it seems a lot more complex than it actually is.

 

[stuknkrvl]

If I send a sample to Ward labs, do I need to tell them what I'm looking for, or do they return a full report as part of their service?

In other news, looks like I need to invest in a digital scale that can measure down to a tenth of a gram...

 

[Gavin C]

If I send a sample to Ward labs, do I need to tell them what I'm looking for, or do they return a full report as part of their service?

In other news, looks like I need to invest in a digital scale that can measure down to a tenth of a gram...

Ward labs Brewers Report is what you want.

This is the scale I use.

 

[WI_Wino]

You can save $6 and get the w6 mineral test rather than the Brewers test. It gives you all the info you need.

 

[aprichman]

Before you get your water tested you should probably consider if it's surface or ground water. Surface water is going to change significantly throughout the season and cities (like the one I live in) change sources depending on the time of year. Ground water on the other hand is pretty consistent and should have similar values throughout the year.

 

[pretzelb]

Try the free version. It's really good.

It does not do the planning for you. That is for the brewer to decide on the target profile. I just keep it simple, color and balance dictate the target profile.

Fwiw, I am using the free version. That is why I am confused. It is a chicken and the egg scenario. It wants me to enter a target profile but doesn't not guide me on what that might be fur a style.

It's like saying make an IPA with no idea how. At least with Beersmith you can randomly enter ingredients and watch the sliders advise you on the style parameters. In this case I don't even have style parameters.

I was looking at the free version of Bru'n last night as I wrote my last reply and I found nothing to guide me on a profile for style of color. I also haven't found another resource that suggests a target based on color or profile. Every source I've found assumes you have this knowledge. To make an analogy, it's like asking me to enter my water profile without a report from the city.

 

[stuknkrvl]

@aprichman - it's ground water.
@gavin - Thanks again!

 

[IslandLizard]

I don't know if this was mentioned, but doing small "test mashes" to get a good feel of the mashing variables is the easiest and best method.

Mash a pound (or even less) and see if Bru'n Water and your pH readings correspond (room temp samples). Do it as many times as you want with adjustments and/or varying the grists.

You can then pitch those test mashes into your main mash when that's completed, so you don't waste anything.

 

[Gavin C]

It wants me to enter a target profile but doesn't not guide me on what that might be fur a style.

How about choosing the "amber bitter" profile in the target drop down menu? I think that would be a decent place to start for an IPA.

That's what I would use.