TIG Welding TC Fittings into Bayou Kettle.

[azwillnj]

I have access to a full machine shop with a TIG at work and have tons of experience welding stainless so I am going to weld the fittings in my new E-BIAB setup myself. I am just unclear on one thing...

What side do I weld on? It is much easier to weld on the outside obviously and will look much better. I have also seen welds on the inside of the kettle as 'sanitary welds' that protect against bacteria getting into the gap between the TC and kettle. Sticking my head into the kettle with 100 Amps and only argon to breathe is not something I'm too excited about. I feel like the boil would kill anything that would get in that gap and it would be a really small gap so off flavors shouldn't be an issue. If I went with the sanitary inside weld I would still weld the outside too for aesthetics, so I would most likely weld the outside first then then just quickly fusion weld the inside.

I was hoping to get a few responses about how everyones fittings are welded in and if you bought the kettle with the fittings welded in or you had a shop do it or did it diy. More specifically if they are welded on the inside, outside or both.

Thanks for the help,
Alex.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

If your fit up is perfect then you can get a full depth fusion all the way through to the inside. A little honing/grinding and polishing the interior will eliminate all the nooks and crannies from the weld puddle. Then it will be super smooth. You can also punch the hole small and draw the hole towards the TC ferrule. I find fusion butt welds to be easier to get full pen consistently.

Also, I'm assuming your welding on some thick ass kettle walls. 1 amp per thou makes for a thick kettle at 100 amps. I keep my dial set more between 65 and 70 unless I'm welding to TC caps. I modulate with a pedal to use less heat. The faster you can move the less warpage you get on stainless and the less total heat input.

 

[azwillnj]

If your fit up is perfect then you can get a full depth fusion all the way through to the inside. A little honing/grinding and polishing the interior will eliminate all the nooks and crannies from the weld puddle. Then it will be super smooth. You can also punch the hole small and draw the hole towards the TC ferrule. I find fusion butt welds to be easier to get full pen consistently.

Also, I'm assuming your welding on some thick ass kettle walls. 1 amp per thou makes for a thick kettle at 100 amps. I keep my dial set more between 65 and 70 unless I'm welding to TC caps. I modulate with a pedal to use less heat. The faster you can move the less warpage you get on stainless and the less total heat input.

I am a huge fan of the pulser, I usually have it set about 300Hz hence the 100 Amps. It's a complete game changer when it comes to welding stainless (and Aluminum). We also have a machine that has HF start so I can start at like 3 amps on the pedal and just modulate that way. I find especially with stainless that its better to have a ton of amps just a pedal away then having to stop and start again after changing the settings on the machine.

I was planning on using a small amount of filler rod on the outside instead of going with a straight fusion weld.. Did you weld your own kettle?

Alex.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

I've welded a few. I haven't been a big fan of pulse on stainless. I use a maxstar 150sth for most of my SS with HF and a pedal.

I'd use filler if you aren't drawing out the kettle to the ferrule. I use 1/16 tungsten and 309 filler and it seems to work fine.