Have any of you done multiple iodine tests to see how long it really takes for conversion either in the conventional mash tun or BIAB? I've noticed the wort changing from cloudy with starches to nearly clear in quite a short time with BIAB but I've never tested, just let it go for the full hour but I've heard from one brewer that only mashes for 30 minutes.
I agree with everything you said in this post BUT. We still (psychologically?) consider books, and even magazines to be the "authority" and many still view "collaboratively created" (internet) information, or information from non published people suspect.
.....
Is BIAB really easier? I get that the grains are all trapped in the bag making it easier to dump, etc. It just doesn't look right for some reason. I know it's whatever works for the individual, I was just looking for some first hand feedback on BIAB. I don't know anybody that does it. I do the picnic cooler, but as soon as my GD parts come in, it's RIMS city.
BIAB is fine, until you hit either the limit of the bag, or your ability to lift, and hold, the bag so it can drain. I quickly hit that ceiling early on, which is why I switched first to coolers and then to the keggle mash tun.
I suppose it you're doing this in the garage you could hook up a come-a-long or some sort of pulley system to the rafters. Tie off the bag and put a SS clevis on it and then attach it to the rafters.
I suppose it you're doing this in the garage you could hook up a come-a-long or some sort of pulley system to the rafters. Tie off the bag and put a SS clevis on it and then attach it to the rafters.
Rev2010 said:Not that much easier than just using a cooler IMO
Rev.
Especially when compared to a simple batch sparge using a cooler and a bazooka tube.
Golddiggie said:Personally, I've been brewing for just over two years too. BUT, I've also progressed far faster than a LOT of other brewers out there.
I batch sparge but I double batch sparge contrary to most opinions today that a single sparge is all that is necessary.
Rev.
Do you realize how many guy who've been brewing for 1+ year think this?
Golddiggie said:But how many have it actually confirmed??
This is one change I'm considering...I currently fly sparge just because its the way I was originally taught. I'm reluctant simply because my mash efficiency is nice and stable, but might just try it next batch
Rev2010 said:What efficiency do you usually get? With my Barley Crusher mill and double batch sparging I am getting a consistent 81% efficiency on every batch outside of mainly wheat based batches - which I will from now on be tightening my mill gap to compensate and see if that resolves it.
@Brulosopher - maybe he won some awards or something...
Rev.
What efficiency do you usually get? With my Barley Crusher mill and double batch sparging I am getting a consistent 81% efficiency on every batch outside of mainly wheat based batches - which I will from now on be tightening my mill gap to compensate and see if that resolves it.
I don't feel the need to justify myself to someone who's got a hair across his *****. I've not entered any competitions, but I also don't need that to feel validated. I've had tons of people (other home brewers and non-home brewers alike) give high marks on what I'm making. That applies to both beer and mead.@Brulosopher - maybe he won some awards or something...
Rev.
What's the gap setting on your BC? Don't go too far since you'll get grain stuck in the mesh of the bazooka screen
That's why I find it funny when folks say there's nothing but junk and bad info on the internet...actually the best info is on the internet, on forums like this, BECAUSE SOONER OR LATER IT GETS PEER REVIEWED....actually it nearly gets autmatically peer reviewed when folks back it up or reject it. And the info becomes state or the art....because we're doing it.
But I think it's dimished the role of "experts" when you find out that everyone is actually an expert.
And having a different opinion, or different experience than someone doesn't make that person's ideas any more or less valid...they're just different.
Unfortunate this thread has started to wobble a bit as it's been excellent.
iambeer said:Some aspects of this thread reminds one of the argument "Why Wikipedia is a not a valid source of information". And, as every decent person knows, it's not.
But it is a valid source of references. Cause the references are right there. Check yo references.
HBT may be full of info, but it lacks references.
The best advice I've read here is: try it yourself.
It's not a slower process. It's a more reliable process.
John Palmer is proven unreliable and his sources were invalid.
But it's okay because his book is a consumer grade hobby book.
It's not a professional reference on brewing, which would be reliable and validated. When you spend $200 on a book, you are paying for the hard work that went into validating the information, and the folks that know how to validate information professionally.
HBT may be full of info, but it lacks references.
Hope your heart doctor didn't read 30 year old text and try it out on you.Ask any professor of medicine if that 200 dollar surgery textbook written 30 years ago still has merit today.
The best thing to do is to take information, ANY INFORMATION, in and try it for yourself.
Hope your heart doctor didn't read 30 year old text and try it out on you.
. . . joking, I do agree with the point you're making.
I had an uncle who brewed his own when I around 5 years old...would have been late 70's I guess. Sure wish he was still alive to pick his brain!
The only issue I have with most of these posts is the guys with 15 years of brewing experience are not the only ones making comments in most threads...Its easier for a new guy to read a book and trust that book, than to come on a site like this where any Tom Dick or Harry can post some lame comment and pass it off as fact. To me, the books and articles form a foundation, something you can at least partialy trust, even if it's not always fact and is later retracted.
dzlater said:I agree with you on this.
Sure maybe some of the info in these books has been disproved.
But if you follow the guide lines in the books you have a good chance of making a tasty beer. So the book may say to avoid hot side aeration, don't squeeze a grain bag, or transfer to secondary.
Though these things may not be critical, they are certainly not going to harm the beer.
If I knew nothing about brewing , and came to this forum to learn how, I would be confused as hell and probably give up.
If you look at posts where some one says they know nothing about brewing, usually the firsts response goes something like, " read Palmer's, How to Brew "
No one says go to the Beginner"s Forum and read 65,284 topics.
Believe me I've learned a ton about brewing from the internet, but don't disregard books and magazines as useless or harmful information.
Confirmed?
The end of this thread should be a massive HBT homebrew competition and the one winner will get a book published describing his or her techniques and opinions on the hobby.
And as to your asertion about 200 dollar professional text books out there with invalid, or plainly outdated information. Ask any professor of medicine if that 200 dollar surgery textbook written 30 years ago still has merit today.
The best thing to do is to take information, ANY INFORMATION, in and try it for yourself.
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