When you do your test, measure your preboil volume of water, and then your post boil volume(after heating it up and boiling for an hour), to get an idea of the amount of water you'll lose during the boil. Why waste time on just one test when you can do multiple tests.
Keep in mind pot material will make a difference too, aluminum is great for people doing a partial because it'll conduct the heat into the water easier, but when doing a full boil, you'll lose more heat through the sides and may not be able to put more heat into the water than you're losing through the pot. SS has a higher R value so it is better at keeping the heat in. Some foil type insulation (available at hardware stores) is an efficient quick fix to that.
the sugar in the extract will raise the boiling temp by a few degrees, so if you are just barely getting 6 gallons of water to boil, the wort might not boil, especially for bigger beers. But Chances are if you can bring 6 gallons to a boil you can boil just about anything... Just something to bare in mind.
Finally (someone might have covered this already) but you'll get more hop utilization with a full boil, so if you needed 1oz of bittering hops in your 3 gallon boil to hit 28IBU, You'll only need something like .75oz in your 6 gallon boil. there's probably a calc online for this somewhere, but i don't want look for it on my phone. BeerSmith can do the cAlc for you too.