Temperature of the Secondary Fermentation?

[Bilbo24]

I’m making a stout from a kit. I used SafeAle S-04 which was one of the recommended yeasts for the kit. The fermentation temp for SafeAle S-04 is indicated as 59-68 degreesF. I know there is some controversy about “revised” S-04 temps, but I went with the 59-68 range and believe it to be better for the brew! It has been in primary nearly 2 weeks and bubbling has stopped. I plan to rack it to a 5 gallon glass Big Mouth fermenter this weekend. My question is: Is the primary temp parameters the same for the secondary? In other words, without doing any damage to the brew, can I let it sit for the duration of its secondary at say 5 degreesF higher than the range of the primary (59-68)? That would essentially get me to room temperature! Any thoughts would be appreciated! Cheers!!

 

[DBhomebrew]

For conditioning, "cellar temp" (~50-55°F) is perfect. However, consistent temp is more important than any one particular temp.

 

[Jag75]

Just curious as to why your racking it to a different fv?

Once your fermentation is done you can leave at room temp.

 

[Bilbo24]

For conditioning, "cellar temp" (~50-55°F) is perfect. However, consistent temp is more important than any one particular temp.

I’m in the South and the cellar temp is only slightly lower than the living area which we cool with AC. In fact the cellar temp in a few weeks may be higher than our living area (it does not have AC). It is fairly constant down there but will rise slightly over the coming weeks. I think it will go from 64 to 70 in the next few weeks but it will be gradual. Thoughts!

 

[DBhomebrew]

Cellar temp is 55 in the same way room temp is 72. Rather rough temp descriptions.

 

[Bilbo24]

Just curious as to why your racking it to a different fv?

Once your fermentation is done you can leave at room temp.

Fermentation is done and I was planning to rack it off the trub. When you say room temp, would 68-74F be ok seeing as I fermented it at 63-67F? My basement is very shortly going to be slightly warmer than my AC cooled living area. Thanks!

 

[Bilbo24]

Cellar temp is 55 in the same way room temp is 72. Rather rough temp descriptions.

I’m sorry but could you phrase that another way. I’m not understanding. Thank you!

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Just my $0.02, but if you're going to rack it, why not rack it into a keg (assuming you keg) and forgo secondary. Otherwise, you can leave it in primary and let it ride. If we're only talking a 5° increase, I don't see that doing any harm. Especially not with US-04.

 

[DBhomebrew]

I’m sorry but could you phrase that another way. I’m not understanding. Thank you!

I only meant to encourage you to not feel bogged down by a specific number on the thermometer.

At this point, the beer is pretty resilient. My cellar runs 60-70 through the year. I don't sweat it. My big beers seem to be holding up just fine.

That said, agreed with the others, secondary isn't needed nor warranted with 98% of beers. If you're looking at no more than a couple months you can bulk condition in the fermenter. Or, bottle it at a month and let them age in their package.

Adding fruit, brett, etc? Secondary. Otherwise, there is no harm done on the homebrew scale by leaving it in primary until you're ready to package.

 

[hotbeer]

S-04 like other ale yeasts tend to give different aroma notes and flavors ever so slightly depending on whether the kept in the upper end of their ideal range or the lower end of their ideal range.

So the answer might depend on what aroma and flavor notes you are wanting from the yeast. The ideal range of S-04 is 18-26°C (64.4-78.8°F) So even at your room temperature in the house you are close to being smack dab in the middle.

https://distributors.fermentis.com/download/135/english/167/safale-s-04-en.pdf
I also wouldn't waste the time to move to a secondary or risk the possibility of O2 or other contamination. Unless this is a special beer that really benefits from such. And I don't think a stout qualifies for that.

My better beers have been ones that sat on a thick layer of trub till bottling/kegging time.

 

[DBhomebrew]

S-04 like other ale yeasts tend to give different aroma notes and flavors ever so slightly depending on whether the kept in the upper end of their ideal range or the lower end of their ideal range.

So the answer might depend on what aroma and flavor notes you are wanting from the yeast. The ideal range of S-04 is 18-26°C (64.4-78.8°F)

We're talking conditioning temp, not fermentation. Yes?

 

[hotbeer]

We're talking conditioning temp, not fermentation. Yes?

Not really talking about either. Fermentation probably finished by day four. Conditioning to me has always been the time after bottling beyond the days it takes to carbonate the beer.

I thought the OP ask about moving the beer from the primary fermenter to a secondary fermenter. (irregardless that little if any fermentation takes place in that thing that is called a secondary fermenter) If not, then my bad.

 

[Bilbo24]

Just my $0.02, but if you're going to rack it, why not rack it into a keg (assuming you keg) and forgo secondary. Otherwise, you can leave it in primary and let it ride. If we're only talking a 5° increase, I don't see that doing any harm. Especially not with

Just my $0.02, but if you're going to rack it, why not rack it into a keg (assuming you keg) and forgo secondary. Otherwise, you can leave it in primary and let it ride. If we're only talking a 5° increase, I don't see that doing any harm. Especially not with US-04.

i don’t have a keg!

 

[Bilbo24]

We're talking conditioning temp, not fermentation. Yes?

Yes.. I am talking about secondary fermentation which I think is called conditioning too. My primary fermentation has stopped. This weekend will be two weeks in primary.

 

[Bilbo24]

Not really talking about either. Fermentation probably finished by day four. Conditioning to me has always been the time after bottling beyond the days it takes to carbonate the beer.

I thought the OP ask about moving the beer from the primary fermenter to a secondary fermenter. (irregardless that little if any fermentation takes place in that thing that is called a secondary fermenter) If not, then my bad.

Not really talking about either. Fermentation probably finished by day four. Conditioning to me has always been the time after bottling beyond the days it takes to carbonate the beer.

I thought the OP ask about moving the beer from the primary fermenter to a secondary fermenter. (irregardless that little if any fermentation takes place in that thing that is called a secondary fermenter) If not, then my bad.

Hot beer.. I am talking about the possibility of increasing my temp while in secondary (which I mean in another glass 5 gallon vessel for another few weeks). My cooler basement temps are rapidly increasing and will soon be above my preferred temp range of 59-68F. I’m not talking about bottling yet. Thank you!!!

 

[MaxStout]

Fermentation is done and I was planning to rack it off the trub. When you say room temp, would 68-74F be ok seeing as I fermented it at 63-67F? My basement is very shortly going to be slightly warmer than my AC cooled living area. Thanks!

No need to rack it off the trub. At homebrew volumes, that's only an issue if you plan to bulk age it for several months or more. You can leave it in the primary FV for a few months without any harm.

 

[hotbeer]

Yes.. I am talking about secondary fermentation which I think is called conditioning too. My primary fermentation has stopped. This weekend will be two weeks in primary.

Whether you decide to move it or not, the temperature you keep it at is pretty much up to you. There are pro's and con's for either. Some involve flavor and aroma. Others involve how fast all the yeast and suspended stuff fall to the bottom and give you a clear and clean beer. As well as other things that just depend on a preference. I don't think you'll ruin it no matter what range of reasonable temperatures you use.

I personally would just leave it in the primary. I've left beer in the primary for up to six weeks and that was a very good beer. A pale ale though, not a stout.

And you did note that even Fermentis said that 78°F is still in the ideal range for fermenting. So that temp or less should definitely be good for anything else. I'm sure higher won't hurt at this point. I've drank beer I left in a hot car for a time and still enjoyed it.

 

[DBhomebrew]

You're following a kit recipe? Yeah, they haven't kept up with the times. Skip the secondary. Everything they say about the secondary can be done by leaving the beer in the primary vessel.

The harm in leaving beer on the yeast cake is the yeast can breakdown and put off-flavors into the beer. This happens in very large fermenters, but not at homebrew scale.

The secondary vessel is really just a bright tank. Unless you actually have secondary fermentation such as with fruit or brett.

Bulk conditioning is what happens in the fermenter or bright tank once fermentation is complete. Bottle conditioning is the carbing and further conditioning that happens in the bottle.

 

[Bilbo24]

I only meant to encourage you to not feel bogged down by a specific number on the thermometer.

At this point, the beer is pretty resilient. My cellar runs 60-70 through the year. I don't sweat it. My big beers seem to be holding up just fine.

That said, agreed with the others, secondary isn't needed nor warranted with 98% of beers. If you're looking at no more than a couple months you can bulk condition in the fermenter. Or, bottle it at a month and let them age in their package.

Adding fruit, brett, etc? Secondary. Otherwise, there is no harm done on the homebrew scale by leaving it in primary until you're ready to package.

Great!! Thank u! Understand now. I can work around 70!!

 

[Bilbo24]

Whether you decide to move it or not, the temperature you keep it at is pretty much up to you. There are pro's and con's for either. Some involve flavor and aroma. Others involve how fast all the yeast and suspended stuff fall to the bottom and give you a clear and clean beer. As well as other things that just depend on a preference. I don't think you'll ruin it no matter what range of reasonable temperatures you use.

I personally would just leave it in the primary. I've left beer in the primary for up to six weeks and that was a very good beer. A pale ale though, not a stout.

And you did note that even Fermentis said that 78°F is still in the ideal range for fermenting. So that temp or less should definitely be good for anything else. I'm sure higher won't hurt at this point. I've drank beer I left in a hot car for a time and still enjoyed it.

Hot beer! Thank you for the help. It’s a simple process until you start thinking about it. And what seemed complicated to me a few months ago is now more simple. I’m just trying avoid mistakes that could cost me a good beer by being rather complicated in my questions here. Thanks to you and all the others who helped!!!

 

[cmac62]

DWRAHHB, or something like that. Relax, don't worry and have a homebrew. Like others have already said, leave it where it is and bottle or keg when you are ready. I once made a Barley Wine that sat on the trub in my dining room for like three months. No issues, actually this is the only beer I ever got a ribbon for.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

... Fermentis said that 78°F is still in the ideal range for fermenting.

[...] we [Fermentis] ran fermentation trials in laboratory conditions with a standard wort for all the strains and standard temperature conditions (SafLager: [...] / SafAle: 20°C [68°F]).

Point being: if one is relying on other information from Fermentis, they may have gathered that information while fermenting at 68 rather than 78. How much difference does it make? .

Personally, passive fermentation temperature control (aka "swamp" cooler) isn't that hard.

 

[Bilbo24]

DWRAHHB, or something like that. Relax, don't worry and have a homebrew. Like others have already said, leave it where it is and bottle or keg when you are ready. I once made a Barley Wine that sat on the trub in my dining room for like three months. No issues, actually this is the only beer I ever got a ribbon for.

I’ll add one more twist about secondary fermentation: I did my primary fermentation of 5 gallons of stout in a 6.5 gallon fermenter. I was planning to rack it for secondary to a 5 gallon glass wide mouth in order to not have too much headspace. Would that be a plus for moving to the smaller vessel or just leave it in the 6.5 gallon vessel for an extra month?

 

[mac_1103]

Whether you subscribe to the old optimal temperature range or the new, they're fermentation temperatures. If the fermentation is done then there's no longer any need to keep the beer at the optimal fermentation temperature. If this was a lager, you would be raising the temperature for a few days and then lowering it for a few weeks. Those temperature changes don't hurt the beer, they help it.

 

[Bilbo24]

I’ll add one more twist about secondary fermentation: I did my primary fermentation of 5 gallons of stout in a 6.5 gallon fermenter. I was planning to rack it for secondary to a 5 gallon glass wide mouth in order to not have too much headspace. Would that be a plus for moving to the smaller vessel or just leave it in the 6.5 gallon vessel for an extra month?

For conditioning, "cellar temp" (~50-55°F) is perfect. However, consistent temp is more important than any one particular temp.

DBhomebrew… thank you!!!

 

[mac_1103]

did my primary fermentation of 5 gallons of stout in a 6.5 gallon fermenter. I was planning to rack it for secondary to a 5 gallon glass wide mouth in order to not have too much headspace. Would that be a plus for moving to the smaller vessel or just leave it in the 6.5 gallon vessel for an extra month?

If you have to move your beer, then you probably do want minimal headspace in whatever you want to call the new container. But any benefit of reducing the headspace is negated by the fact that the FV headspace was filled with CO2 while the new vessel will be filled with air. Unless you can do some kind of closed transfer to a purged vessel. OTOH, it's a stout, so not really as susceptible to rapid staling as many other styles.

 

[Bilbo24]

If you have to move your beer, then you probably do want minimal headspace in whatever you want to call the new container. But any benefit of reducing the headspace is negated by the fact that the FV headspace was filled with CO2 while the new vessel will be filled with air. Unless you can do some kind of closed transfer to a purged vessel. OTOH, it's a stout, so not really as susceptible to rapid staling as many other styles.

That’s what I was hoping to hear! I’m just going to leave it in the primary a few more weeks like everyone has suggested!

 

[Jag75]

Fermentation is done and I was planning to rack it off the trub. When you say room temp, would 68-74F be ok seeing as I fermented it at 63-67F? My basement is very shortly going to be slightly warmer than my AC cooled living area. Thanks!

As others have said , I'd stay away from transferring to another fv. Everytime you transfer your risking a foreign introduction to your beer. At home I will leave beer in my fv for 3 to 4 weeks . Then keg or bottle . The extra time in your fv will help with the clean up as well as aid with sediment reduction in your bottles.

Do you keg or bottle ? Either way I'd let it sit for 3 to 4 weeks then package . If you bottle you are transferring twice unless your bottle priming .

In the end , it's truly up to you . I was the same . It's how I was taught by an old school brewer.

 

[Bilbo24]

As others have said , I'd stay away from transferring to another fv. Everytime you transfer your risking a foreign introduction to your beer. At home I will leave beer in my fv for 3 to 4 weeks . Then keg or bottle . The extra time in your fv will help with the clean up as well as aid with sediment reduction in your bottles.

Do you keg or bottle ? Either way I'd let it sit for 3 to 4 weeks then package . If you bottle you are transferring twice unless your bottle priming .

In the end , it's truly up to you . I was the same . It's how I was taught by an old school brewer.

Thank you!!! I’ll just let it stay in the primary to condition! I’m going to bottle when it gets time!! This forum is a great help!!

 

[user 338926]

I'm glad to see you decided to let it in the primary fermenter. Good decision. The only thing you would do by moving it is add oxygen and potentially ruin the beer.

Keep in mind that the time where the fermentation temperature is most critical is during the active fermentation. Once it has slowed to where you are now, I would hesitate to say it's completely unimportant, but in my experience it almost is so. The dangerous time is during the active fermentation, and most especially before the fermentation actively begins.

I will add a caveat to that which is strictly my own opinion. Anecdotally, I find that pitch temp is extremely important if I pitch a massive amount of yeast. I do that often, and especially with big beers, by pitching trub saved from other finished beers. In those cases, a large amount of yeast is going to get a super head start and if the temperature is too high, you may as well dump the beer right now on the spot. In my opinion though, if there's going to be some lag time you can pitch a few degrees warm as long as you're headed toward the proper fermentation temperature. I'm sure some here will disagree with that, do with the info what you will.

The part that really matters is that if the yeast is allowed to take off and go Full Throttle at a temperature higher than you are targeting for the fermentation temperature, you absolutely will have off compounds. There will be bad flavors in the beer, not even a small question. Doesn't mean it's completely ruined, but if it isn't, it missed a good chance to be. If the yeast is warm during the reproductive phase of the fermentation, get ready for problems. If it remains too warm during the active phase, same thing. Once it gets to where you are now, many beers are actually intentionally warmed up to help finish the fermentation. The yeast both cleans up some of the compounds that were produced and eats the last bit of the sugar that's fermentable.

I wouldn't recommend intentionally taking it to 75 or 80 but I really don't think it would be detrimental if it were to happen. About the only thing I would really recommend avoiding is exposure to sunlight, whether it be direct or indirect. The darker the better.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

i don’t have a keg!

Just my $0.02, but if you're going to rack it, why not rack it into a keg (assuming you keg) and forgo secondary. Otherwise, you can leave it in primary and let it ride. If we're only talking a 5° increase, I don't see that doing any harm. Especially not with US-04.

Odd that that's the only part you picked up on.

 

[Bilbo24]

I'm glad to see you decided to let it in the primary fermenter. Good decision. The only thing you would do by moving it is add oxygen and potentially ruin the beer.

Keep in mind that the time where the fermentation temperature is most critical is during the active fermentation. Once it has slowed to where you are now, I would hesitate to say it's completely unimportant, but in my experience it almost is so. The dangerous time is during the active fermentation, and most especially before the fermentation actively begins.

I will add a caveat to that which is strictly my own opinion. Anecdotally, I find that pitch temp is extremely important if I pitch a massive amount of yeast. I do that often, and especially with big beers, by pitching trub saved from other finished beers. In those cases, a large amount of yeast is going to get a super head start and if the temperature is too high, you may as well dump the beer right now on the spot. In my opinion though, if there's going to be some lag time you can pitch a few degrees warm as long as you're headed toward the proper fermentation temperature. I'm sure some here will disagree with that, do with the info what you will.

The part that really matters is that if the yeast is allowed to take off and go Full Throttle at a temperature higher than you are targeting for the fermentation temperature, you absolutely will have off compounds. There will be bad flavors in the beer, not even a small question. Doesn't mean it's completely ruined, but if it isn't, it missed a good chance to be. If the yeast is warm during the reproductive phase of the fermentation, get ready for problems. If it remains too warm during the active phase, same thing. Once it gets to where you are now, many beers are actually intentionally warmed up to help finish the fermentation. The yeast both cleans up some of the compounds that were produced and eats the last bit of the sugar that's fermentable.

I wouldn't recommend intentionally taking it to 75 or 80 but I really don't think it would be detrimental if it were to happen. About the only thing I would really recommend avoiding is exposure to sunlight, whether it be direct or indirect. The darker the better.

4Mesh.. thank you for your thoughts on this. If I might, I’d like to lay out what I did with a replay of the temps along the way and ask you if I messed up too much. As you may have read earlier, I have a wifi thermometer attached to the side of the primary fermenter so I have a time line of temps from start to right now.
I cooled the wort with a chiller and pitched two packets of dry S-04 yeast directly into the wort when it reached 72 degreesF. I immediately put a cork in with an airlock and carried it to the basement. The basement temps are cooler than the living area. This was April 30, a Sunday at 1530 in the afternoon . By 8 am on Monday morning it read 68.2. (I think it had started to ferment some and that explains the slow temperature drop). I have another wifi thermometer in the basement and it read about 4 degrees cooler than the beer at 8am also. From 8 am the temperature inside the fermenter grew steadily and reached its highest of 70.9!at 1936 Monday evening April 1st and then steadily decreased its heat bloom until about 1900 on Wednesday the 3rd when it settled to a flat line of 64.6 F. Great krausen head and significant bubbling!!!
It stayed at that temp, give or take a couple of degrees until now, May 10th. The highest it reached after the finish of what I call the temperature bloom was 65 and the lowest was 63.3. That was with me opening and closing the one AC vent we have in the basement and trying to keep it between 62-65 degrees. I tried to keep track of the bubbling but lost that battle . I remember that it was actively bubbling once about every 20 seconds or so on May 8th and had virtually stopped bubbling yesterday May 9th in the evening. The 14th will be 2 weeks in the primary and since I’ve decided not to move it to secondary, I plan to keep it in primary for two more weeks (May 27th ) at which time I plan to bottle.
How does that fit with everything you said about temperatures? Again, thanks for your help!!! The pic below shows my temp graph. When I taped the wifi thermometer on the side of the vessel it first read 80 degrees because I had kept the unit in a drawer on the porch. As I said, I pitched the wort at 72 and then took primary and thermometer to the basement at 1530!

 

[Bilbo24]

Odd that that's the only part you picked up on.

FloppyKnockers, I didn’t mean to slight you in the least!!! I was just acknowledging that I don’t keg. I should have said that after what you said about keeping it in the primary and the differences in temp, etc, that i agree with you 100 percent!! Again, I do appreciate everyone’s thoughts and suggestions!!! Cheers!

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Point being: if one is relying on other information from Fermentis, they may have gathered that information while fermenting at 68 rather than 78.

Looks like Lallemand has a similar process (fermentation studies at 20C/68F. For example, see "Best Practices: IPA Solutions" (direct link to PDF or link in Verdant landing page).

Feel free to ferment at 78F. Feel free to expect the flavor profiles they mention. But please be aware of how they collected that information.

 

[user 338926]

4Mesh.. thank you for your thoughts on this. If I might, I’d like to lay out what I did with a replay of the temps along the way and ask you if I messed up too much.

No, you didn't.

As you may have read earlier, I have a wifi thermometer attached to the side of the primary fermenter so I have a time line of temps from start to right now.
I cooled the wort with a chiller and pitched two packets of dry S-04 yeast directly into the wort when it reached 72 degreesF.

I've seen info suggesting re-hydrating US-04 in plain water offers a much more viable yeast pitch. Even seen it suggested it's 2x. I don't know that to be true, and Fermentis doesn't say that on their page for it, nor on the packet. But they do mention rehydraton in water or wort for 15-30 min. In my experience with it, I didn't take notice to any significant difference, but I also don't use this yeast in higher gravity beers.

The greater the amount of yeast you pitch, the less of a reproductive phase your wort will experience. I've seen commercial brewers say it's virtually impossible to overpitch to a detriment. That's been my experience also.

Keep in mind, folks say the center of the beer is warmer than the exterior during active fermentation. I have never tested it. In vessels the size I use (5/10G) maybe it's less. Perhaps one day I'll see for sure. I've seen reports of 3-4 deg F. But I do not know how large the diameter needs to be to have that big a difference. Maybe in 5-10G it's 0.01F.

I immediately put a cork in with an airlock and carried it to the basement. The basement temps are cooler than the living area. This was April 30, a Sunday at 1530 in the afternoon . By 8 am on Monday morning it read 68.2. (I think it had started to ferment some and that explains the slow temperature drop). I have another wifi thermometer in the basement and it read about 4 degrees cooler than the beer at 8am also. From 8 am the temperature inside the fermenter grew steadily and reached its highest of 70.9!at 1936 Monday evening April 1st and then steadily decreased its heat bloom until about 1900 on Wednesday the 3rd when it settled to a flat line of 64.6 F. Great krausen head and significant bubbling!!!

There's definitely going to be a temp shift from ambient to beer in the first days. I just had a porter that maintained 6-8 deg F above ambient in a plastic fermenter for 2 days. Thankfully ambient was 52-55. I pitched a LOT of yeast in that. I also injected pure oxygen for 45 seconds, so it really got a head start. For reference, I believe Sierra Nevada uses 1200# of yeast in a 24K gallon (edit) 1000# of yeast in a 12K gallon batch of Bigfoot. Let those numbers sink in.

By day 3 I always expect it to be very near ambient. 1 or 2 days later I generally let it warm up, of force it to, and let it finish that way. Then cold crash IF I'm going to CC but I don't always. When you watch videos of commercial brewers talking about their processes, some stuff applies to us and others doesn't. But, generally their temp controls, while done way differently than ours, are applicable to our small batches.

It stayed at that temp, give or take a couple of degrees until now, May 10th. The highest it reached after the finish of what I call the temperature bloom was 65 and the lowest was 63.3. That was with me opening and closing the one AC vent we have in the basement and trying to keep it between 62-65 degrees. I tried to keep track of the bubbling but lost that battle . I remember that it was actively bubbling once about every 20 seconds or so on May 8th and had virtually stopped bubbling yesterday May 9th in the evening. The 14th will be 2 weeks in the primary and since I’ve decided not to move it to secondary, I plan to keep it in primary for two more weeks (May 27th ) at which time I plan to bottle.

When it gets to even "once ever 5 seconds" I am done worrying about temp control.

How does that fit with everything you said about temperatures? Again, thanks for your help!!! The pic below shows my temp graph. When I taped the wifi thermometer on the side of the vessel it first read 80 degrees because I had kept the unit in a drawer on the porch. As I said, I pitched the wort at 72 and then took primary and thermometer to the basement at 1530!

It should be a great beer. My stout that is 1/2 on tap now, had a spike about exactly the same temp as yours. Mine was MoreBeer's Sweet Stout kit. Initially, I would have said 'too sweet', but fully knowing it would mellow and finish up, even in a keg in the kegerator. I tried a sip of it this morning, and it's really coming around. Another few weeks, perhaps months, and it will probably fit the 5* reviews it has many of. The initial off flavors it had are going away.

It's not uncommon for people to leave Stouts sit for months. Even porters for that matter. After bottling, I'd set some away and save them as a taste test 6 months to a year after, and just take notes of your opinions with the dates on which you try those bottles. Provided there's good bottling technique and the beer isn't oxidized, you'll see a huge change in character as time goes by.

Most likely, you'll like the last bottle, best.

 

[user 338926]

But please be aware of how they collected that information.

I think what he means here is partly, they used wort at 12 deg P. Your stout was quite a bit higher than that. Adjust expectations accordingly.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

@Bilbo24: nice writeup in #32. @4Mesh: nice response in #35.

But please be aware of how they collected that information.

I think what he means here is partly, they used wort at 12 deg P.

+1. Wort P/SG is also a consideration.