Temp Control Issue

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Pale Ales and Such

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Hello all,

I just got the inkbird ITC-308 and I’m currently testing it out. It works great but when the cooling temp is reached, where the inkbird does shut off the keezer, the keezer will run a few more minutes and the temp drops about 12 degrees lower than where I want it to be.

what’s a good solution to this problem? I was looking at possibly getting a heating element of some kind but wasn’t sure what would work great for a keezer.

thanks!
 
Assuming a correctly connected system the keezer compressor is controlled by the Inkbird and certainly "does shut off". However, there's still dense refrigerant vapor that was just pumped into the evaporator loop that doesn't just "shut off" and will continue sucking up BTUs until the capacity is reached.

Normally, we don't care, because the additional "BTU suckage" isn't enough to really change anything - when the keezer actually is loaded with kegs filled with beer. Further, if one doesn't just dangle the controller's probe in the air but instead solidly couples it to, say, the side of a keg, and insulates it so it's not easily influenced by the air temperature, then one won't actually see this phenomenon to begin with.

I strap my controller probe to the side of the fullest keg in my keezer under an inch thick pad of closed cell foam. As a result you don't really see much of an after-effect once the compressor turns off. I set the controller to my target and allow a 2°F differential. My keezer holds 8 kegs and the more full the total capacity the longer the period between compressor cycles. This is a 24 hour period shown and compressor turned on five-almost-six times...

1628383627109.png


Anyway...an empty keezer will show all kinds of temperature over-shoot. Once it's loaded up things smooth out...

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Assuming a correctly connected system the keezer compressor is controlled by the Inkbird and certainly "does shut off". However, there's still dense refrigerant vapor that was just pumped into the evaporator loop that doesn't just "shut off" and will continue sucking up BTUs until the capacity is reached.

Normally, we don't care, because the additional "BTU suckage" isn't enough to really change anything - when the keezer actually is loaded with kegs filled with beer. Further, if one doesn't just dangle the controller's probe in the air but instead solidly couples it to, say, the side of a keg, and insulates it so it's not easily influenced by the air temperature, then one won't actually see this phenomenon to begin with.

I strap my controller probe to the side of the fullest keg in my keezer under an inch thick pad of closed cell foam. As a result you don't really see much of an after-effect once the compressor turns off. I set the controller to my target and allow a 2°F differential. My keezer holds 8 kegs and the more full the total capacity the longer the period between compressor cycles. This is a 20 hour period shown and compressor turned on five-almost-six times...

View attachment 738235

Anyway...an empty keezer will show all kinds of temperature over-shoot. Once it's loaded up things smooth out...

Cheers!

Yeah, good call. After messing around for a day, I figured out that the 12 degree differential was the first time I plugged in and cooled down the keezer. It’s not dropping that much anymore and staying right around where I need it.

thanks for the wisdom here!
 
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