Sweet taste, Rotten Egg-like Odor

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dogbert

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Good day,

I have made two attempts at the following all grain recipe, and both have met with apparent disaster.

Recipe:
*10lbs pale two-row malted grains
*1.5lbs crystal 60 deg malted grains
*1.0oz Northern Brewer hops (45 mins of boiling)
*1.0oz Northern Brewer hops (15 mins of boiling)
*0.5oz cascade hops (5 mins of boiling)
*Irish moss (1tablespoon, last 5 minutes)
*1 pack of bentonite (when transferring into carboy)

The first resulted in a strong, foul, plastic-like taste, and I had to discard the final product. I then treated for chlorine and chloramine using measured amounts of potassium metabisulfite. In the next batch, with k-meta used to treat the chlorine, the plastic taste was gone, (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/plastic-like-taste-pale-ale-recipe-430938/) but now the beer has a slight scent of rotten eggs, and it's disgusting.

The information I have found on the topic suggests I used too much sulfite. Some remedies include "scrubbing" the beer with CO2, but I am using priming sugar, and not forced carbonation, so the tools to do so are not available to me.

Is there something I can do to prevent this terrible smell from arising? I've considered getting a better chlorine filter for my tap water (just using a brita filter for now, which is painfully slow), or is there something that can be done to counter or boil off the excess sulfites after the chlorine treatment aspect is done?

Also, considering the amount of hops used, I was expecting a bitter, pale ale flavor. This beer tastes like a sweet lager. Do I just need to use stronger hops in the future? This recipe is supposed to be for a pale ale.

Finally, are these two scenarios (ie: improper chlorine treatment resulting in a plastic-like taste, and too many sulfites causing a rotten egg smell) common amongst rookie all grain brewers? I've read a few books on the topic, and have been making mead for over a decade, and I'm wondering how many more all grain batches have to be ruined until I have something that is drinkable.

Thanks!
 
This is what I found in the beer faults list, similar to you - Check for infection. Check water for excessive sulfates. Check yeast health. Check for yeast autolysis (beer left on yeast too long at warm temperatures). Try another yeast strain.

Are you reaching proper FG values? What are your fermenting temps?

Where do you live?
 
Buy RO water or spring water for you next brew. This can rule out problems with water treatments. You may still need to adjust mash pH. The sulphor smell can be a by product of fermentation with some yeasts.
 
Fermentation temperature: 67 degrees (F)
Location: BC, Canada
Yeast: Wyeast '97 British Ale Yeast
Intended FG is consistently reached

I'm doubtful there was any infection. I sterilize everything very thoroughly with sulfite solution.

Can excess sulfites be treated or removed from the mash and sparge water?

Also, instead of the dry yeast packets, should I just bite the bullet and buy the liquid yeast with a starter in it?
 
Can you get a hold of StarSan? That may be a place to start, trying a different sanitizer.

I don't know of any Wyeast packets that are dry. By '97, do you mean 1997? Might want to try some fresher yeast :drunk:

Not being the best method, but most of my beers are lower gravity, I buy the Wyeast smack packs and just pitch those without the starter. No issues yet, but I'm working on building my stirplate setup
 
+1 what's already been suggested about water. Try some jugs of spring water or R.O. water in one batch. If you can use hose water for mash/boil, these work nicely along with an RV drinking water hose - http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380939074&sr=8-1&keywords=camco+filter You still have to use 1/2 a campden tab in 5 gallons for the chloramine.

The proper amount of Irish Moss for 5 gallons is one teaspoon, not tablespoon.

How much campden were you using? All you need is the 1/2 tab for 5 gallons at the start of the boil.

I'm not sure what yeast strain you are describing. BRY-97 dry yeast perhaps? There's not a Wyeast 97 that I know of. I just kegged a batch of pale with BRY-97 (pitched @ 60, fermented @ 63, finished @ 68). It's very clean with no bad smells/flavors.

What temps are you pitching/fermenting at?

I wouldn't bother with bentonite. Most beer brewers don't use it at all. There are other techniques that will help lead to clear beer, but don't worry about that until you get your flavor issues straightened out.

You may want to drop the 15 min NB hop and put in its place maybe an ounce of Citra @5 and an ounce of Amarillo @ 0 for a nice citrus/grapefruit flavor.
 
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