Supplying Power for e-brewery

[cody6173]

So I'm getting back into brewing after a 3 year hiatus and I've been reading over the past few weeks and I'm seriously considering ditching my propane 3 tier system for all electric. I haven't decided what system as of yet but I know I'll need some electrical work beforehand. I know absolutely nothing about electrical so obviously I'll hire a qualified electrician to do the work. What are my options ("best" option) as far as getting power to the system? My idea is have an outlet installed in my garage which would be about a 20-25 ft run from my breaker box. Is it as simple as having a run installed from my box to my garage? Do I want 30 or 50 amp? Do I need a subpanel to allow for future possible upgrades? My breaker box set up is this....

200A Main
20A x14. 60A double stove
7 empty. 60A double heating unit
30A double water heater
30A double heating unit
30A double dryer
30A double outside a/c
9 empty

Thanks for any advice. I just don't want to sound like a dumb dumb when I tell the electrician what I'm wanting.

 

[stevehaun]

If you are brewing 5 or 10 gallon batches, you need a 30 amp, double pole GFCI breaker added to your control panel. You will then need 10 gauge wire run to a 30 amp, 240 vac 4 prong outlet. If you are going to brew bigger batches or think you will upgrade to bigger batches in the future, then go 50 amp. 50 amp double pole GFCI breaker, 6 gauge wire and a 50 amp, 240 vac 4 prong outlet.

 

[doug293cz]

You might also want a 50 amp service if you will ever want to run your BK and HLT at the same time (useful if doing back-to-back brews.)

Brew on

 

[Wizard_of_Frobozz]

The biggest difference between 30 and 50 amp is cost. 50 amp requires 6 gage wire at a minimum and it’s more expensive.

However, for a 25 ft run, that cost difference is minimal and it’s usually easier to find a 50 amp GFCI breaker. I’d go 50 amp - less limiting and the cost difference is negligible for that small of a run.

 

[cody6173]

Thanks everybody. I was kinda leaning towards the 50a and being done with it in case I ever wanted to brew larger batches in the future. I guess I just wanted to make sure I could safely use a smaller system on a 50a circuit if I wanted. Also I didn't know if it was a simple as getting the circuit run directly from the breaker box. I mean I've got 200a service and I've got the room in my box (that's what she said). I've also been seeing about people having spa panels put in and all that. Basically just trying to figure out the pay once solution I suppose.

 

[itsnotrequired]

i wouldn't blink an eye with a 50 amp setup on a 200 amp service. that being said, you might not want to run all the heaters, both ovens, the dryer and brewery all at once.

don't fall into the trap that spare breaker space = spare electrical capacity. its like after that conversation with the bank, 'what do you mean i don't have any money in my account, i still have plenty of checks in my checkbook!'

 

[mxstar21]

People use the spa panels because for some reason they are cheaper than just buying a gfci breaker. You can buy a regular breaker sized for your circuit to the spa panel. The spa panel will come with the gfci breaker in it.

 

[Sparkncode]

you might not want to run all the heaters, both ovens, the dryer and brewery all at once.

Thats an important one. Down here in NZ the typical house is fed with 230V single phase fused at 63A. With my 32A homebrew feed and the induction cooktop I do have to be careful (2 x 32A breakers in my panel plus everything else) LOL.
I definitely have to manage my loading. I have run two 4.5KW elements on my 32A feed by running one on 50% duty cycle (1Hz cycle rate) so I can get right up the an average 32A, the breaker is fine with it as its an average thermal and I keep an eye on the cable temperature etc. Thats 40A peaks out of a 63A feed LOL. Lights blinking at 1Hz as the 4.5KW load comes on and off.

The electrician mentioned I might be able to get two phase cost effectively (cheaper than 3 phase) but I'm leaving that decision until I get a new garage built and will include the costs in that as it requires new wire from the street.

 

[Dcpcooks]

I went with two 30 amp Gfci breakers in the main panel.

I’d run the trunk from the main to a secondary box with gfci breakers in the garage. That way you have plenty of amps for two vessels and can run pumps plus kill power as needed.

 

[augiedoggy]

Also keep in mind, a 50a gfci spa panels gfci protection will still work perfectly fine with only 30a of power being drwn through it. I use a regular 30amp DP breaker in my main box and then mount the spa panel next to my control panel in my brewery for the gfci function as well as having a master kill switch nearby. I only brew 11 gallon and 6 gallons though. because I use a 4500w HLT element and a 240v 1800w rims I can run them at the same time without problems but if it were a short run (and I had a larger main service than 100 amps) I would have also thought about 50 amps.

 

[mirthfuldragon]

The biggest difference between 30 and 50 amp is cost. 50 amp requires 6 gage wire at a minimum and it’s more expensive.

However, for a 25 ft run, that cost difference is minimal and it’s usually easier to find a 50 amp GFCI breaker. I’d go 50 amp - less limiting and the cost difference is negligible for that small of a run.

+1 on 50 amps. Also, the biggest cost is the electrician's time. And re-doing it is always more expensive than doing it right/better the first time.

Especially on electricity, I'm a big fan of overkill. For me personally, I would run a 100-amp line out to the garage and put in a sub-panel there, then put in a 50 amp GFCI for the brewery. Why, you may ask? Electric cars are going to happen at some point in the future. Tesla will sell you a wall charger that will pull 100 amps, and they recommend 40, 60, or 90 amp breakers. Also, a welder, an air compressor, a 3hp table saw . . .all things I do not have, but want in the future.

Yes, I just probably tripled or quadrupled your project cost, but you'll never have to do it again.