Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

Yakima 728
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grndslm said:
Anybody with a horizontal yeast catcher feel like chiming in??

:tank:
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I lost the PM , but i think it was you that PM'd me.. its about 8.5-9", and will float based on on how deeply you thread the fitting.

IMAG0344.jpg


IMAG0345.jpg
 
Anyone bought one of these recently from RuralKing and actually received free shipping? I tried to order online and use Paypal to pay and its making me pick a shipping method costing more than the conical and the stand together, and I already entered the FREESHIP code...thanks Im ready to get two on the way, we have rounded up all the stainless to outfit them over the last month or so.
 
ScottR79 said:
Anyone bought one of these recently from RuralKing and actually received free shipping? I tried to order online and use Paypal to pay and its making me pick a shipping method costing more than the conical and the stand together, and I already entered the FREESHIP code...thanks Im ready to get two on the way, we have rounded up all the stainless to outfit them over the last month or so.
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I bought mine around the holidays, and got free shipping, just not sure when I'm going to get it. It said 6 - 8 weeks.
 
I wouldn't buy from RuralKing.... They are wasting your money shipping LTL Freight and rarely stock the conicals they are advertising (6-8 week lead times. really?). My 60 gallon and 37 gallon Conicals shipped FedEx and UPS respectively. Just verified and the quoted SpraySmarter.com for the 60 gallon blow molded Ace-Roto was $40.30 for UPS or $103.60 for LTL Freight.... Hmmmm - tough choice.
 
FredTheNuke said:
I know this thread centers around a 15 gallon setup but the concepts are the same just on a smaller scale. Here is the update on the 60 gallon:

Alright it is all sealed up. I will do some basic pressure tests once the sealant has had ample time to cure (moving liquid in and ensuring the air locks bubble away as that is about as much pressure as the lid will ever have to sustain). The FDA sealant says no VOCs... yeah right - it gives you a good buzz...

I went with twin airlocks just to be safe. I'll have to use blow off tubes during the initial 60 gallon ferment but should only need the 2 airlocks each year when 15 gallons are added. The SS 1/2" valve with QD connects to a 20 inch deep 1/2" ss tube that will allow siphoning or addition of liquid (it reaches 25 gallons down into the product). Any more than 25 gallons can be removed from the bottom.







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This is like the second thread I've opened back up after taking a LONG break from homebrewing and this is EXACTLY what I have been wanting to do to my conical to make it airtight and better suited for use as a bright tank/secondary.

I'm digging the dipstick as well, that will come in real handy.

Edit: Have you used this setup with a carbon dioxide blanket? My conical is 15 gallons but I'm not always brewing 15 gallon batches, and I'd hate for that extra air to spoil something. But I reckon if it's airtight, the extra headspace won't make that much of a difference....
 
I'm banking on the initial fermentation creating a solid CO2 blanket. If need be I can purge into the dip tube with pure CO2 and let out any air should I drain some for "sampling".... <grin>
 
Finally putting my 15 gallon conical together. I opted to seal the lid by removing the inner ring the lid screws onto. I put two strips of the rubber "D" style on the lid and I will strap it down. Seems to make a great seal this way, plus less places for crud to hide. Anyways. I was thinking of putting a 3/4 90' barbed fitting in the lid for the blow off tube. I'm thinking if I just barely make the hole big enough I can actually screw the fitting in and make a tight seal. Anyone done this? Also is a 3/4" Tygon tubing a good size running into a bucket? Is there any advantage to going bigger or smaller? Or should I just say screw it and put a big hole with a rubber plug and traditional style air lock? Any help is appreciated. I built myself a brew stand with keggels and pumps that I've never used yet. My excuse was that this conical wasn't ready. I'm tired of excuses haha
 
That's looks pretty good, but having taken the bottom "attached" ring off and seen the gap under it I would still be a little worried. that gasket will seal it I'm sure but you will still get crud under the ring that may be hard to clean. Nothing a good soaking wouldn't clean up but why bother?
 
Food grade silicone works awesome for underneath the threaded collar. Others have had luck with double o-rings in the threads for the actual lid.
 
This just seems the simplest and cleanest, definately air tight. To each their ownImageUploadedByHome Brew1390941266.377910.jpg ImageUploadedByHome Brew1390941124.228122.jpg
$6 for the lid gasket and $1 each for the bungee cords. And yes I'll be doing a blow off tube
 
Just 2 o-rings instead of one. Earlier in this thread someone had posted the McMaster Carr part number of the o-rings they successfully used on Ace Roto Mold conicals.
 
I just contacted Rural King yesterday to ask why I haven't gotten my conical yet. I ordered it 8 weeks and 2 days ago. They said they will email me today to find out. LOL.
 
The part numbers are 0568-453 & 0568-454. Put one oring on the inside of the screws and one on the ouside

ujusasy2.jpg


I don't have an oring under the lid so its not air tight as of now
 
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That one would work. I used the polypropylene one but the SS would work. Ensure you use the ss hose clamp on the conical side. If the valve side leaks I'd seal it with a bead of FDA approved clear silicone adhesive.
 
FredTheNuke said:
That one would work. I used the polypropylene one but the SS would work. Ensure you use the ss hose clamp on the conical side. If the valve side leaks I'd seal it with a bead of FDA approved clear silicone adhesive.
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Would it help to smear all the threads with Keg lube?
 
When I frst built one if these I used the banjo quick disconnects. They made it really easy to remove the valve and clean it after each use.

You obviously use a threaded nipple, but for a few bucks you could set yourself up with the QD's which are nice, before and after the valve.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
fpweeks said:
When I frst built one if these I used the banjo quick disconnects. They made it really easy to remove the valve and clean it after each use.

You obviously use a threaded nipple, but for a few bucks you could set yourself up with the QD's which are nice, before and after the valve.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
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So this

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...8.5&ei=0C_xUoSdKMWTyQGYpoCICw&ved=0CH4QpiswAg

and this

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro....3&ei=NzDxUr2ABc2ayQHSgIHgAg&ved=0CO0CEKYrMA8

and this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JQJOIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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I just pulled the trigger on those 2 items on Amazon Prime, I should get them on Friday. Thanks. I'll think about the yeast catcher options later. I still need to build a stand, etc, so I'm sure it will be a little bit before I get to use this. This is a good start.
 
jflongo said:
Would it help to smear all the threads with Keg lube?
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I did cover my threads with keg lube to ensure I didn't gall the conical's female threads. It made the process much easier and sure didn't hurt anything. Equivalent of teflon tape in my opinion.
 
Just curious, has anyone tried to add a coupling to expand the opening on the out of the valve, and then just screw in a Ball Canning Jar to it? I was thinking of trying that.
 
I have seen where someone did that. I forget exactly how they attached it, but it is a pretty neat idea. I started down that path with mine, and ended up abandoning the Banjo pieces parts, and buying stainless parts from brewers hardware, including an 1-1/2" sight glass that i use as a yeast catcher. I would never go back at this point.

Its great to be able to see what the yeast you have caught looks like. Sometimes theres still a bit of trub in it, so i'll dump and try again until i get the good stuff.
 
i searched for the thread but couldn't find it. I think they may have drilled out a widemouth lid and attached it to a 1" nipple..like a weld less fitting but with a ball lid instead of a kettle.....or something similar.
 
fpweeks said:
I have seen where someone did that. I forget exactly how they attached it, but it is a pretty neat idea. I started down that path with mine, and ended up abandoning the Banjo pieces parts, and buying stainless parts from brewers hardware, including an 1-1/2" sight glass that i use as a yeast catcher. I would never go back at this point.

Its great to be able to see what the yeast you have caught looks like. Sometimes theres still a bit of trub in it, so i'll dump and try again until i get the good stuff.
Click to expand...

I cut a piece of ss to the same size of a mason jar lid, drilled a 1.5" hole in it for a tc ferrule and silver soldered it. Cut a gasket out of silicone sheet stock and she seals up nice. Works great and I'm doing a 2" one next.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mason-jar-sight-glass-harvester-423808/
 
jflongo said:
Just curious, has anyone tried to add a coupling to expand the opening on the out of the valve, and then just screw in a Ball Canning Jar to it? I was thinking of trying that.
Click to expand...

The tc ferrules are just a bit too small to mate up directly with a mason jar. Even if it did mate up the ferrule is too thick and the lid doesn't thread on enough to provide a reliable seal.
 

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