Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

[camiller]

Have to admit, I'm not real keen on the idea of the yeast catcher. With the enclosed yeast catcher container there is basically a quart of air that has to be displaced, and the only place for it to go is back up into the fermentor. Seems like just sticking a pitcher under the outlet would be better from an oxygen contact with the beer perspective. Yes, you will have to let some air in the top while drawing out the yeast but the relatively heavier CO2 in the headspace will mostly keep it away. letting it bubble up through the beer seems ... undesirable.

 

[nostalgia]

For the record, the manufacturer's website states:

Our tanks are made from polyethylene. Bisphenol A (BPA) is not used as a component in the manufacture of polyethylene. BPA is primarily used in polycarbonate and in expoxies used to line cans. Polyethylene does not leach chemicals and has been used for direct food contact for many years.

Kind of waffles around whether or not they're food safe, but there it is. Also, the tanks are made from Medium Density PolyEthelyne, not HDPE.

Either way, cool project

-Joe

 

[Squeeky]

Inductor tank delivered. Ive seen on other post that tank-depot ships theirs in a box. This one just came with the label taped to the side and foam padding around the openning. Lid is not air tight, but I just have to find a gasket. Although for fermenting air tight is not required. In all im please just what I expected for 50 bucks. Now to wait on nipple and valve.

 

[Squeeky]

**** just realize this is not a full drain model! I dont think it will cause much of an issue but let me know what you guys think.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

**** just realize this is not a full drain model! I dont think it will cause much of an issue but let me know what you guys think.

Not sure if it makes much of a difference! My 15 gallon is a full drain and the 30 gallon has the bulkhead you show earlier in the thread
Ehh, don't lose no sleep over it

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

 

[Squeeky]

Thanks for the calming words SpottedDog, the only issue I've spent the money on the 1-1/2" fittings. You know in our PMs when you said wait till you get the conical then order your fittings . . .

Now it's time to really test their customer service as I sent an e-mail reguarding the issue. It would be one thing if it was my mistake (which partly it might be) but I called and gentleman even want and checked to confirm. I should have just ordered over the phone then and not saved the extra 5%.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Thanks for the calming words SpottedDog, the only issue I've spent the money on the 1-1/2" fittings. You know in our PMs when you said wait till you get the conical then order your fittings . . .

Now it's time to really test their customer service as I sent an e-mail reguarding the issue. It would be one thing if it was my mistake (which partly it might be) but I called and gentleman even want and checked to confirm. I should have just ordered over the phone then and not saved the extra 5%.

Take a look at the bulkhead, what size is it that came with the tank? I know the 30 gallon size bulkhead required a 2" nipple. Cross your fingers and hope the 15 gallon came with the 1-1/2" opening :-/

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

 

[Squeeky]

Nope it over 2.5 in wide so I would assume 2in fpt

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Nope it over 2.5 in wide so I would assume 2in fpt

eBay it or post it in HBT classifieds

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

 

[sensibull]

eBay it or post it in HBT classifieds

Or sell the fittings and forge ahead, so those of us with a 2" bulkhead can copy you without having to think too much

 

[FSR402]

The 2 inch will work better anyways. Change out the fittings you have and sell them here to someone that got the 1.5.

 

[tdiowa]

I have been using these tanks for four years. I now have (3) 10 gallon tanks for my 8 gallon batches. After the mods on the tank and building my own stand I have about 100.00 dollars in them. Great for yeast harvest and put a second spicket for bottling.

I emailed them last summer and asked them if they would make a 7.5 gallon tank. I haven't reeived a response.

TD

 

[Squeeky]

Look what arrived in my inbox only minutes after their business opened. Top Notch customer service by OhioValleyAG - Jarrod.

-
Mr. Ritchie,

Sorry for the inconvenience. It appears you want the INFD15-19 full drain tank which we do not list this product online. We will issue a call tag for pickup and send you the right tank out today. The pickup will be within approx. 2 days.
-

Since I now know the full drain model is not available through the website, I have asked the best means in which I can send customers their way to order this model. I'll post back when I get a response.

FSR402,

I really wanted to full drain 1-1/2" model, not only because the fittings are cheaper, but the 2" model has a large lip around the drain in which yeast and trub can easily get trapped and more difficult to clean. It only took 2 days for the tank to arrive, if there is a chance I have both in hand at the same time I'll try and take comparison photos.

 

[Surly]

Just checked tracking, my conical is at my doorstep. Quick if you hurry you can steal it before I get off work !

The least you could have done was to include your address. Good luck with your build.

 

[FSR402]

Have to admit, I'm not real keen on the idea of the yeast catcher. With the enclosed yeast catcher container there is basically a quart of air that has to be displaced, and the only place for it to go is back up into the fermentor. Seems like just sticking a pitcher under the outlet would be better from an oxygen contact with the beer perspective. Yes, you will have to let some air in the top while drawing out the yeast but the relatively heavier CO2 in the headspace will mostly keep it away. letting it bubble up through the beer seems ... undesirable.

I believe the idea is that you have the valve open when you fill the fermenter and thus leave it open until you want to pull the yeast. Close, remove yeast trap.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Have to admit, I'm not real keen on the idea of the yeast catcher. With the enclosed yeast catcher container there is basically a quart of air that has to be displaced, and the only place for it to go is back up into the fermentor. Seems like just sticking a pitcher under the outlet would be better from an oxygen contact with the beer perspective. Yes, you will have to let some air in the top while drawing out the yeast but the relatively heavier CO2 in the headspace will mostly keep it away. letting it bubble up through the beer seems ... undesirable.

I brewed a few times without the yeast catcher and what happens is the yeast/shrub end up packing down on the inside of the vessel up against the ball valve and you have either 2 of things happen:

1- ABSOLUTLY NOTHING COMES OUT because the yeast/shrub has formed a barrier up against the ball valve at bottom

2- Almost similar to #1, but all you get is good fermented beer and NO yeast/scrub comes out.



The reason I built the yeast collecter was to have everything settle below the vessle and ballvalve so senerio #1 and #2 don't happen You will waste alot of potential beer if you don't limit what comes out the bottom.

:rockin:

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Look what arrived in my inbox only minutes after their business opened. Top Notch customer service by OhioValleyAG - Jarrod.

-
Mr. Ritchie,

Sorry for the inconvenience. It appears you want the INFD15-19 full drain tank which we do not list this product online. We will issue a call tag for pickup and send you the right tank out today. The pickup will be within approx. 2 days.
-

Since I now know the full drain model is not available through the website, I have asked the best means in which I can send customers their way to order this model. I'll post back when I get a response.

FSR402,

I really wanted to full drain 1-1/2" model, not only because the fittings are cheaper, but the 2" model has a large lip around the drain in which yeast and trub can easily get trapped and more difficult to clean. It only took 2 days for the tank to arrive, if there is a chance I have both in hand at the same time I'll try and take comparison photos.

AWESOME :rockin:

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Hmmmm: http://newstore.vvessel.com/

This is for all the non-believers!!!
The plastic and yeast catcher concepts are OK!

 

[FSR402]

Hmmmm: http://newstore.vvessel.com/

Yes same idea but from what I hear the port and the ball are to small and they just plug up.

 

[camiller]

I believe the idea is that you have the valve open when you fill the fermenter and thus leave it open until you want to pull the yeast. Close, remove yeast trap.

I brewed a few times without the yeast catcher and what happens is the yeast/shrub end up packing down on the inside of the vessel up against the ball valve and you have either 2 of things happen:

1- ABSOLUTLY NOTHING COMES OUT because the yeast/shrub has formed a barrier up against the ball valve at bottom

2- Almost similar to #1, but all you get is good fermented beer and NO yeast/scrub comes out.



The reason I built the yeast collecter was to have everything settle below the vessle and ballvalve so senerio #1 and #2 don't happen You will waste alot of potential beer if you don't limit what comes out the bottom.

:rockin:

OK, I'm slow, thanks for clarifying.

 

[Squeeky]

Got my full drain tank today! This is going to be much better then the bulkhead version in mu opinion. Also the gallon markings are much clearer on this tank then the previous. I'll try and take pictures tonight.

I wanted to provide contact information for OhioValleyAG, Jarrod is the sales rep that has really gone above and beyond to make things right. If your interested in duplicating please give him an e-mail also can't beat their price either $51.87, and shipping was cheap $12.73, of course I am only one state away. Only real complaint is the tanks were shipped bare, not cardboard box. Can't be too upset both made it here in great condition and the fittings were wrapped in foam and seamed well with packing tape.


Remember model: INFD15-19
Not on website, order direct through

Jarrod Kemper
Ohio Valley Ag
Marketing & Business Development
2610 West Second Street
Owensboro, KY 42301
o: 270.684.4202 x216
f: 270.684.4204
tf: 866.561.7772
e: [email protected]
Shop Online: www.ohiovalleyag.com

 

[sgoncalves]

Got mine setup over the weekend and got my first batch in it, haven't installed the bulkhead for racking just waiting to see where i should put it after first batch.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

Got mine setup over the weekend and got my first batch in it, haven't installed the bulkhead for racking just waiting to see where i should put it after first batch.

For a quick second I thought that was a pic of my fermenter
Great work, looks good you'll be happy you went this way:rockin:

 

[Squeeky]

Stand plans requested

I found a design for google sketchup, however for the life me I can't get it into a dimension display.

 

[sgoncalves]

For a quick second I thought that was a pic of my fermenter
Great work, looks good you'll be happy you went this way:rockin:

Thanks yeah on the stand I got a 2'x2' 3/4" plywood from HD (they sell it as pieces for this size), then just built the frame using 2x4's using 3" drywall screws. The hole I cut wasnt a perfect circle so I got some copper pipe insulation to put around my cut out hole to help protect it (not sure if this was overkill but I'd rather be safe then sorry) I ordered http://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=FAA050PB this to install a bulk head and picked up a 1/2 ball valve from HD, I'll be installing this for racking after the first batch to see where I want to position it. The yeast catcher I had to get from Lowes because the original piece I got from HD wouldn't thread to the 1 1x2 ball valve correctly (not sure why but it leaked when I tested). The yeast catcher I used a 3" PVC pipe, 3" to 1 1x2" reducer then used a small piece of 1 1x2 pvc pipe to a 1 1x2 male thread and a 3" cap.

All of this based on your concept and a few other posts I've seen.

 

[sgoncalves]

Stand plans requested

I found a design for google sketchup, however for the life me I can't get it into a dimension display.

Mine is 2' x 2' on the top and is 36" high. Enough room for me to look into it and pour in yeast without needing a step stool, I also have enough room to put a 5 gallon bucket when the yeast catcher is removed (helpful when cleaning and sanitizing just dump into the bucket and dispose) and when I add the bulk head I should have enough clearance to gravity feed to a corny (using the taller ball locks).

 

[chrisdb]

great thread- I'm upsizing to 10G batches and my largest carboys are 6G- this conical is the right size for me.
How necessary is a second bulkhead for racking?
It seems to me if you make up a 'yeast/trub' catcher a little oversize you would be accomplishing the same result without the additional hardware and fabrication necessary for a racking bulkhead/valve in the conical.
Which leads me to the next question....
I've never really measured the volume of yeast/trub in my carboys but it seems like i'm washing at least a quart of sediment when washing yeast... what would be a volume of yeast/trub collector that woud give me clear beer on a high gravity brew?

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

great thread- I'm upsizing to 10G batches and my largest carboys are 6G- this conical is the right size for me.
How necessary is a second bulkhead for racking?
It seems to me if you make up a 'yeast/trub' catcher a little oversize you would be accomplishing the same result without the additional hardware and fabrication necessary for a racking bulkhead/valve in the conical.
Which leads me to the next question....
I've never really measured the volume of yeast/trub in my carboys but it seems like i'm washing at least a quart of sediment when washing yeast... what would be a volume of yeast/trub collector that woud give me clear beer on a high gravity brew?

I don't have a side valve. I use a yeast catcher about 1qt in size. Size of catcher all depends on how much junk you keep out of your fermenter.

Sent from my iPhone using HB Talk

 

[chrisdb]

thanks!
I was thinking a 1qt catcher would be about the right size- not likely to be undersized, but I'd rather err on the side of clear beer than taking the last ounce possible from the fermenter.

 

[sgoncalves]

great thread- I'm upsizing to 10G batches and my largest carboys are 6G- this conical is the right size for me.
How necessary is a second bulkhead for racking?
It seems to me if you make up a 'yeast/trub' catcher a little oversize you would be accomplishing the same result without the additional hardware and fabrication necessary for a racking bulkhead/valve in the conical.
Which leads me to the next question....
I've never really measured the volume of yeast/trub in my carboys but it seems like i'm washing at least a quart of sediment when washing yeast... what would be a volume of yeast/trub collector that woud give me clear beer on a high gravity brew?

My thought with the second bulkhead for racking is to not introduce air by just opening the bottom valve and leting it just drop into my corny's, this way I can put a hose and feed it to the bottom of the corny. Just my thought other input would be good though.

 

[chrisdb]

good point.. but after the yeast/trub container has been unscrewed from the single bottom valve couldn't you screw in a fitting with a barb end and hose attached?

 

[Zorin]

Great thread, will subscribe for later build.

Thanks

 

[Surly]

Fascinating project.

What about temperature control? Is there anyway this can fit into a standard sized refrigerator?

 

[Cromwell]

Question:
If the yeast catcher unscrews, can you empty it more than once? Once to get rid of trub, and then a second time for clean yeast?
If the worry is about oxygenating the beer, would it work to fill the yeast catcher with CO2, and have an air release valve near the top of it to let the air out as it fills with liquid?

 

[sgoncalves]

good point.. but after the yeast/trub container has been unscrewed from the single bottom valve couldn't you screw in a fitting with a barb end and hose attached?

Certainly could except on my build it would be to low to gravity feed into a corny.

 

[sgoncalves]

good point.. but after the yeast/trub container has been unscrewed from the single bottom valve couldn't you screw in a fitting with a barb end and hose attached?

Certainly could except on my build it would be to low to gravity feed into a corny. Another use for the second vavle is a simple way of taking a gravity reading.

 

[chrisdb]

for sure... gravity readings and maybe a sample too.

 

[crazyseany]

you could maybe add in a side valve with a "dip tube"? Have to be careful it didn't get into the yeast cake though..

how do the regular stainless conicals work? I saw a yeast washing tutorial where he opened the valve on the bottom and drained the traub... Then the yeast....

 

[VanHorneDog]

as far as im concerned as long as your valve is big enough not to get clogged with yeast you dont need the yeast catch, you just pull the yeast off... am i wrong on this?

i thought the purpose of the yeast catch was to make sure you dont get a clogged valve.

 

[SpottedDogBrewing]

good point.. but after the yeast/trub container has been unscrewed from the single bottom valve couldn't you screw in a fitting with a barb end and hose attached?

you sure can