I've been reading various posts on HBT for a while now and I find myself in need of some feedback so I'm hoping someone can help me out. I started brewing last summer and completed my first AG brew this January. The first few AG batches were completed in a bucket mash tun that a friend of mine gave me to get my feet wet (more or less literally). I built a MLT out of a 10-gal Rubbermaid water cooler following the DIY projects listed here on HBT and have found my efficiency went up a few points, but I believe I can do a lot better to get a higher OG with my brews without increasing the grain bills to the point where I have to start mail ordering base malts in bulk.
In general I'm completing recipes with about 7-10 lbs of well-modified base malt plus some crystal malt. I completed 3 single infusion mashes (approx 154 degrees F), 3 SMASHes (108, 140, 158 degrees F) and 3 decoction mashes (also following 108, 140, and 158 degrees F). The only time I've cleared OG of 1.044 is with the decoction mashes, but that's a heck of a long brew day and should theoretically be unnecessary when using well-modified base malts.
All nine batches were batch sparged with 170F water as needed to reach a boil volume of 7 gal since I usually lose 1-1.5 gallons during the boil.
I'm using reverse-osmosis filtered water that I buy five-gallons at a time from the grocery store since it only costs $2.50 and I have yet to research the tap water profile here in Denver.
I completed iodine tests for every mash and I hold saccharification temps within a few degrees until the iodine clears.
In general I'm getting an average brewhouse efficiency of:
Single Infusion Mash 60%
Step Mash 65%
Decoction Mash 75%-85%
Following the instructions in How to Brew I'm adding the strike/infusion water with a 2 Qt pitcher so as not to shock the grains (I don't have a Hot Liquor Tank with a ball valve).
Typically i'm stirring the grist every 15 minutes.
Equipment I'm using for my mash:
10 Gal Beverage Cooler MLT (SS braid instead of a false bottom for lautering)
7.5 Gal SS Boil Kettle (stock pot)
Plastic stir paddle
Aluminum stock pot for infusion/sparge water
Dial Thermometer (i broke 2 digital ones before deciding to go analog)
The 6 ales brewed have had 60 minutes boils, 90 minutes for the 3 lagers. I boil it on about as high heat as possible without boil over on a propane burner from my turkey fryer setup depending on the outdoor temp.
For strike water temps, additional water infusions (step mash) and decoction volumes I'm using the equations from Palmer's How to Brew.
The only time I seem to hit the projected OG from a recipe I build in BeerSmith or Brew Buddy is via decoction mashing. I've been disappointed to go through all the work then only end up with a low OG (1.038-1.042), particularly when a recipe calls for 10 lbs + of base malt. I suspect that brew water profile/possible water treatment and perhaps to a lesser extent the pH levels of the mash may be contributing to the low efficiency, but because I have not researched these factors yet I have no idea.
The factor that may not have anything to do with efficiency but will definitely help in boiling harder would be a larger boil kettle since until some of wort evaporates I only have a half-gallon of headspace to prevent boil over.
Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions as to what I can do to improve brewhouse efficiency? I tried to provide as much detail about my processes so far just in case any of you see an obvious flaw.
Thanks!
In general I'm completing recipes with about 7-10 lbs of well-modified base malt plus some crystal malt. I completed 3 single infusion mashes (approx 154 degrees F), 3 SMASHes (108, 140, 158 degrees F) and 3 decoction mashes (also following 108, 140, and 158 degrees F). The only time I've cleared OG of 1.044 is with the decoction mashes, but that's a heck of a long brew day and should theoretically be unnecessary when using well-modified base malts.
All nine batches were batch sparged with 170F water as needed to reach a boil volume of 7 gal since I usually lose 1-1.5 gallons during the boil.
I'm using reverse-osmosis filtered water that I buy five-gallons at a time from the grocery store since it only costs $2.50 and I have yet to research the tap water profile here in Denver.
I completed iodine tests for every mash and I hold saccharification temps within a few degrees until the iodine clears.
In general I'm getting an average brewhouse efficiency of:
Single Infusion Mash 60%
Step Mash 65%
Decoction Mash 75%-85%
Following the instructions in How to Brew I'm adding the strike/infusion water with a 2 Qt pitcher so as not to shock the grains (I don't have a Hot Liquor Tank with a ball valve).
Typically i'm stirring the grist every 15 minutes.
Equipment I'm using for my mash:
10 Gal Beverage Cooler MLT (SS braid instead of a false bottom for lautering)
7.5 Gal SS Boil Kettle (stock pot)
Plastic stir paddle
Aluminum stock pot for infusion/sparge water
Dial Thermometer (i broke 2 digital ones before deciding to go analog)
The 6 ales brewed have had 60 minutes boils, 90 minutes for the 3 lagers. I boil it on about as high heat as possible without boil over on a propane burner from my turkey fryer setup depending on the outdoor temp.
For strike water temps, additional water infusions (step mash) and decoction volumes I'm using the equations from Palmer's How to Brew.
The only time I seem to hit the projected OG from a recipe I build in BeerSmith or Brew Buddy is via decoction mashing. I've been disappointed to go through all the work then only end up with a low OG (1.038-1.042), particularly when a recipe calls for 10 lbs + of base malt. I suspect that brew water profile/possible water treatment and perhaps to a lesser extent the pH levels of the mash may be contributing to the low efficiency, but because I have not researched these factors yet I have no idea.
The factor that may not have anything to do with efficiency but will definitely help in boiling harder would be a larger boil kettle since until some of wort evaporates I only have a half-gallon of headspace to prevent boil over.
Does anyone have any thoughts/suggestions as to what I can do to improve brewhouse efficiency? I tried to provide as much detail about my processes so far just in case any of you see an obvious flaw.
Thanks!
No but seriously, I was getting 75% dead on for the longest time 20 min batch sparging. Then I converted to 45 min fly sparging and stirring the mash 2x in between. My efficiency's went through the roof ( >93% ) so long as I keep my grain bill below 15 lbs. As soon as I hit 15 lb's or over, I see a huge drop down to 77%-81% efficiency. Also rice hulls are a bonus when playing with minute rice or grits. Don't get irritated, look at your mash tun or lauter tun, and really look at the fluid dynamics. Do you have "sweet spots" in the mash after your done sparging? I know when I first started there was a little area that would always be sweet in the mash after I sparged. ensure you really get a good stir. sometimes it may be that you need to upgrade or re-engineer your lautering system...it could be a number of things. decocting always gets me a few bonus points as well, but i normally decoct all my beers because I use Pilsner, Vienna, and Munich malts a lot.
