Structure advice for an All-Grain newbie

[USCDiver]

So I've done about a dozen extract brews off and on for the last few years using a turkey fryer and a plastic fermenter. I've got a few friends around here in the same boat and we've decided to make the leap into all grain. I've been reading on here the last few days about the different styles of DIY structures as well as looking at the Brew Magic and Morebeer retail structures. None of us are ready to drop $5000 or more on a turn key system like those, so I was thinking of starting with a structure that we could upgrade over the next few years.

The bad news is I have NO DIY tools or experience. The good news is my father-in-law is a professional welder! So I was thinking about working with him to build a steel structure that could be used now with a cooler mashtun plus/minus a pump but that we could eventually add pumps, electronics, automation, etc to over the months/years without having to rebuild the underlying chassis.

From my reading here, it looks like the Brutus 10 style is particularly popular as is the Brew Magic. I'd like to hear some pros and cons from you guys, in particular with regards to gradual implementation.

From what I can tell the Brew Magic is perfectly serviceable with a single pump given that the BK is set lower. What would be the downside of using that style frame now with a cooler MT and a keggle or SS pot for the HLT and BK? It looks to me like I'd need to have two pumps right off the bat to use the single level frames like Brutus or Morebeer even if I used the cooler as my MT.

What do you all think?

 

[fletchsj]

I'd just buy this thing...
http://brewsteel.com/?page_id=279

or

http://www.synergybrew.com/complete_systems/custom-brew-systems/
for and great complete option. Much cheaper than most.

If not, go stainless steel. Don't mess with regular steel. I did and while it is a quality stand(s) the work that you don't realize is painful. the grinding of primed steel to make for good welds, the extra prep and paint work so it doesn't rust. ugh. if I could go back i'd pay double just to have bought stainless steel. Good luck.

 

[USCDiver]

The thing is, I'd like to do some DIY work on the rig at some point instead of buying a pre made system. I am thinking of making a three tier system based on the Brew Magic, but making the highest tier removable in the future when I get pumps and HERMS set up.

 

[Brew-ta-sauraus]

Here is my 3 tier system. Simple and cheap to build.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/steel-horse-brewing-3-tier-build-brewery-pics-125032/

 

[CPORT546]

This is the cheap somewhat gravity fed system I put together this winter in the basement to reduce set up and tear down time. I have yet to try it out and am looking forward to it. The painters scaffold was $80 the lumber and random hardware was probably another $20. From there insert your own fryers. I have a one gallon aluminum measuring pitcher to accuratly measure and transfer sparge water to the elevated mash tun. I might need to reinforce the 2x8s once you add the weight of the full boils.

 

[Ma23456]

Csport please tell us more about your set up this looks great and I'm very interested

 

[mattd2]

Since your FIL is a welder you could set up a 3 tier stand to start off with gravity draining the HLT/MLT/kettle, something like this:

(it was the first one I found!)
Then if you get a pump just cut the top tier off, clean it up and weld some more bits to it set it up for 2 tier (or raise the kettle up aswell for single tier).

 

[TravisT]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show-us-your-sculpture-brew-rig-46578/

A ton of really good ideas on this thread if you haven't read it yet

 

[CPORT546]

Csport please tell us more about your set up this looks great and I'm very interested

PM me what exactly what you want to know and I'll see about starting a new thread on it tomorrow rather than hijack this one.

 

[USCDiver]

Well, as luck would have it, I came across 3 "good karma" kegs on Criagslist today. So I'm thinking about going ahead with all keggle brewing. I'd like to end up with welded tri-clamp fittings, but not sure if I want to drop that kind of dough up front. If I drill holes for weldless bulkhead fittings now, can I go back and flare them for welding Tri-clamp later or will the horse be out of the barn by then?

 

[dfess1]

you should be able to. The whole you'll need for the welded fittings will be larger than the weld less fittings. Unless I am completely missing something...

 

[fletchsj]

Well, as luck would have it, I came across 3 "good karma" kegs on Criagslist today. So I'm thinking about going ahead with all keggle brewing. I'd like to end up with welded tri-clamp fittings, but not sure if I want to drop that kind of dough up front. If I drill holes for weldless bulkhead fittings now, can I go back and flare them for welding Tri-clamp later or will the horse be out of the barn by then?

depends on the fittings you want to use. Generally, the weld-less fittings are not the same as the tri-clamp. so you would need to switch at that time and the ferrules for the tri-clamps are larger diameter than the nipples you use to pass through the keg with a weld-less kit. If it's me I wouldn't waste money on weld-less kits. just go straight to the weld in kits. And, if you can't afford the cost to have a welder do the work. braze them. It works like a charm. Weld-less kits always leak.

as far as flaring them holes. I believe that is for brazing. I've never seen a tig weld that needed to be flared on any kettle I've used or seen. ANd even for brazing, the flare is just for added strength. it isn't mandatory. they are still very strong w/o flaring

 

[CPORT546]

Here is the thread I wrote on my brewstand I was asked to expand on.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-painters-scaffold-brew-stand-304661/#post3790654