Stainless hop spider (basket) position vs heating element

[stmicbarr]

Any opinions on where the best position is for a stainless hop spider/basket in relation to the heating element? I can't decide between centered in be pot and directly over the element by about an inch, or directly on the side of the pot and resting on the bottom.

Does it even matter?

 

[RocketBrewer]

I went directly over the element so the boiling action could churn directly up through the basket

 

[IslandLizard]

I went directly over the element so the boiling action could churn directly up through the basket

The wort is hotter right above the element, so it will heat the basket a bit more if placed above it, but I doubt it makes enough of a difference compared to placing it along the side.

You may also notice that it never really boils inside the basket, it's a degree or so lower. IOW, the boiling "action" does not continue on the inside of the screen.

Let me add, don't buy one that's too small. A larger, wider basket can hold more hops. You can always insert a heat stick inside the basket if you really want it to boil in there too, but I doubt it makes a noticeable difference in the end. As long as wort flows through the mesh it should work all fine. Lift it up every few minutes. Or circulate wort into the basket with a heat stick in it.

 

[iijakii]

I don't have a basket, but what I do for my bags is just throw the bittering additions in and not worry about it. They're churning well and I haven't noticed any utilization issues. When I add the majority of my hops at flameout I recirculate and have my return-hose flowing into the bag ontop of all the hops. Works well.

 

[jcav]

What if you went with a smaller 4 1/2 inch diameter one that fits between the element and side of the pot/keggle, but it was taller like 18 inches and it sat on the bottom? This way if you did 5 gallon batches it would sit low enough to have a least five inches or so of wort in it. It's also tall enough so if you did larger batches you can fill it will a large amount of hops for your IPA's and other hoppy beers. It will still hold a lot of hops for your 5 gallon batches too. That's what I am going to do, I ordered one from Stainless Brewing. It's on the way and when I get up and running I plan on seeing if this works. If not I can always cut it to size and reattach the top ring and center it over the middle of the boil kettle like others are suggesting. Hopefully this will work unless I am missing something obvious.......

John

 

[augiedoggy]

I made an adapter so the basket sits low for 5 g batches until I went with the bigger basket.... now mine sits directly above the element.

 

[dmcman73]

Mine is off to the side and is about a inch or less from the bottom of the kettle. It's away from the element and on the opposite side of my re-circulation so that it doesn't get clogged with any material (hot break/grain matter/etc) as it comes out of the re-circulation port.

 

[jcav]

Mine is off to the side and is about a inch or less from the bottom of the kettle. It's away from the element and on the opposite side of my re-circulation so that it doesn't get clogged with any material (hot break/grain matter/etc) as it comes out of the re-circulation port.

Excellent, do you find that you get good hop utilization with your basket set up this way? I realize that this is another topic that is a matter of opinion and open to debate, but I am just curious about your particular setup?

John

 

[dmcman73]

Excellent, do you find that you get good hop utilization with your basket set up this way? I realize that this is another topic that is a matter of opinion and open to debate, but I am just curious about your particular setup?

John

My hop spider is about 6" in diameter and 19" inches in length. Because of the size of it, the hop material has room to move around and float during the boil, so yes, I do get good hop utilization. If your hop spider is undersized, then the hop material becomes compacted and utilization suffers.

 

[augiedoggy]

My hop spider is about 6" in diameter and 19" inches in length. Because of the size of it, the hop material has room to move around and float during the boil, so yes, I do get good hop utilization. If your hop spider is undersized, then the hop material becomes compacted and utilization suffers.

This is why I went from the 4" diameter basket to the larger 6" you have.

 

[jcav]

My hop spider is about 6" in diameter and 19" inches in length. Because of the size of it, the hop material has room to move around and float during the boil, so yes, I do get good hop utilization. If your hop spider is undersized, then the hop material becomes compacted and utilization suffers.

Excellent that's what I want to know!

John

 

[jcav]

This is why I went from the 4" diameter basket to the larger 6" you have.

Well I'll try the 4 1/2 inch diameter one and see what happens. Hopefully it will work, but if not I will get the 6 inch one. The 6 inch one will have to go above my element, as it won't fit between the element and the wall of the keggle. Thanks for the response.

John

 

[dmcman73]

Well I'll try the 4 1/2 inch diameter one and see what happens. Hopefully it will work, but if not I will get the 6 inch one. The 6 inch one will have to go above my element, as it won't fit between the element and the wall of the keggle. Thanks for the response.

John

It should be fine so long as the bottom of the Stainless hop spider doesn't touch the actual element.

 

[TexasWine]

It should be fine so long as the bottom of the Stainless hop spider doesn't touch the actual element.

Just curious, why does it matter if the spider touches the element?

 

[dmcman73]

Just curious, why does it matter if the spider touches the element?

During a boil the hop spider does have some movement, it can scratch/scrape the coating on the element. Plus you don't want all that heat being generated by the element directly transfered to the hop spider.

 

[TexasWine]

During a boil the hop spider does have some movement, it can scratch/scrape the coating on the element. Plus you don't want all that heat being generated by the element directly transfered to the hop spider.

Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something. My hop basket sits right on top of an element. So far with no issues.

So then if I have a stainless element I have no concerns about a coating, and the temperature isn't an issue because it's submerged in water at 212F (I'm at about 60 feet above sea level). Water is a very good conductor of heat.

 

[jcav]

The hop baskets from Stainless Brewing are unique in that if you need to trim off an inch (or what ever size you need) you can take off the top ring and trim the mesh with a pair of scissors, and then reattach the mesh to the top ring and your good to go.

 

[crane]

The hop baskets from Stainless Brewing are unique in that if you need to trim off an inch (or what ever size you need) you can take off the top ring and trim the mesh with a pair of scissors, and then reattach the mesh to the top ring and your good to go.

I just finished building a new boil kettle and I can contest that it was extremely easy to cut down my hop spider from stainless brewing. I did use tin snips as I feel they are more appropriate for the job, but with how easy it was I'm sure scissors work well too.

 

[augiedoggy]

If you are using a true ripple ULWD stainless element there no need to worry about scratching the coating.and since its ULWD the stainless basket can come in contact with it without worry. Now the copper elements with the zinc coating would be another story...