SS FTSs Temperature Control Coil on a Blichmann Fermenator?

[lhommedieu]

Has anyone tried retrofitting a Blichmann Fermenator conical dome to fit a SS FTSs Temperature Control Coil? Granted that the dome's surface is curved, but it should not be too difficult. I would think that you'd have to unbend the coil on both sides, to get it to sit a little deeper, as well.

Or would you recommend a DIY coil project to similar effect?

Edit: Nevermind - I figured out the DIY.

 

[Tricerahops220]

Can you please share. I was looking at the SS Brewtech however, was just gifted the Blichmann. While it's not what I was looking at, I'm defiantly not complaining. I was considering doing a fermentation chamber this weekend if I could not find anything that resembles the SS FTSs TCC.

 

[lhommedieu]

Sorry for the late response - I haven't been on the computer much lately.

I contacted stainlessbrewing.com and it looks like the following herms coil will work with pass-through compression fittings. I'm still waiting for a reply from them to see if the coil will need to be modified in some way, but it looks to me like it will work in something like this manner:

1. Drill two holes in the corny keg lid and solder or weld some female fittings to accommodate the male NPT end of the compression fitting.

2. Place the two ends of the herms coil through the compression fitting, and then attach tubes connected to your cooling or heating system to the ends.

I believe that the device can be made sanitary by following this procedure:

1. Sanitize everything above using a standard practice before fitting it to the lid, e.g., Starsan, boiling water, etc.
2. Re-sanitize the interior of the fermentor with a 3-step process: a) PBW at 160 F continuous for 20 minutes; b) flush; c) fill with boiling water and flush out just before filling with wort.

http://stainlessbrewing.com/3-Coil-2-vertical-bends-50-x-14-x-035-OD-Tubing-304304L---_p_301.html

This isn't my original idea. There is a thread that shows the process in detail here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=316410

 

[sensortech]

i'm looking to do the same thing. I emailed them to see if they can modify the 10" coil to have the ends terminate 6" apart at the top, that way I can drill holes in the flat part of the lid and use the weldless compression fittings. from there maybe some kind of QD for the water source. I have a 14g fermenator, so it'll have to go down lower as I do a lot of 5 gallon batches. I didn't see that 3" coil, not sure it would be ideal for the 14g though. would love to hear about your progress.

 

[lhommedieu]

I decided to try out the 3" coil since I'd like the convenience of attaching it to the corny keg lid that fits on top of the Blichmann 14G Fermenator. After some consideration I decided to go weldless using pass-through compression fittings from Brewhardware. They are currently out of stock but I'll order in a week or two.

Here's the link to the coil: http://stainlessbrewing.com/3-Coil-2-vertical-bends-50-x-14-x-035-OD-Tubing-304304L---_p_301.html

Here's the link to the compression fittings: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/truebulkhead38comp.htm

The coil will be 17 inches long with the connection tubes 7 inches from the level of the top coil. The connections will be parallel and 1 1/4" apart to allow fitting to the corny keg lid.

I've been brewing in the winter months and using ferm wraps as a heat source on the outside of the Fermenator in my uninsulated garage to keep the temperature optimal for lagers. The method works but there is a Rube Goldberg aspect to it. It can also get awfully cold in the garage and I'd like to open my brewing window to include some warmer months. I'm looking forward to experimenting to see what the maximum ambient temperature outside of the Fermenator can to be for the coil to still be effective using water and frozen water jugs held in a large, insulated cooler. If I want to, I can always switch to chilled water and glycol as I already have a chest freezer that I can dedicate for that purpose.

I probably won't have this constructed until mid- to late July, but will post pics and trial results then.

 

[sensortech]

lhommedieu,

Do you always do 10g batches? I do on occasion, but mostly 5g batches. My worry with the 3" coil would be how much of it contacts the beer with the fermenter half full. Ideally I'd like the 1/2 in tubing, 10" diameter with custom bends to come 6" apart. I looks like the 3/8, 6" coil could work as well, although I'm drilling into my lid. Would rather do the corny keg lid as you are. Have you had any luck with them responding to emails? They haven't gotten back to me yet. Anyways please keep us posted on your project. BTW, stainless brewing has 1/4" compression fittings as well: ISSD4MC8

So after typing all that, I did some more measurements and think maybe the 3" would work better overall because:

1. 3" coil will fit below the dip tube
2. when the fermenter is full, more contact with beer.
3. I can get a spare keg lid a lot cheaper that a spare dome lid.
4. the lid is pretty thick!

I'm on vacation toward the end of the week, but will re-attack when I get back.

 

[lhommedieu]

I always do 10+ gallon batches - especially since I switched to using tri-decoction method for brewing lagers. It's a very long day and I can't justify the time for brewing smaller batches. Besides - as long as you have the equipment, there's no real extra work involved.

I fill my Blichmann 14 G Fermenator above the seal between the top and the main body - about 13 gallons. When I clean it just before filling it up on brew day I seal it under slight pressure and have never had a problem with leaks. I would rather blow off the gunk on top during fermentation than have it settle with the trub.

I've asked Stainlessbrewing to fabricate a coil that will sit just below the level of my beer and fills the space in the fermentor to the level where the main body starts the transition to the conical part. Convection *should* do the work for the beer that sits in the conical "V" section below the main body. But it's a work in progress and as I said, I'll get back with pictures and trial results.

I was going to use their pass-through fitting but it works better if you decide to weld female fittings to the corny lid and reverse the fitting to screw in the male end. That's how I think it worked for the guy that posted previously on HBT with his set up. Brewhardware's pass-through compression fitting works better, for me, after I decided to go weldless.

Stainlessbrewing doesn't return emails quickly. Perhaps that's a good sign as it means they're busy due to a quality product. A phone call set things in motion for me and I've put in my order and am waiting for it to be shipped.

 

[lhommedieu]

Just an update:

The compression fittings from Brewhardware were too large and I'm going to return them. They were good about it, as usual, and I ended up getting another piece of hardware from them for another project.

I got the compression fittings from StainlessBrewing that will fit the coil. These will fit the corny keg lid with room to spare. Don't forget to get the 1/4" lock nut that will allow you to use these for a weldless fit.

http://stainlessbrewing.com/LOCK-NUT_p_133.html

 

[procreations]

I'd like to hear how this setup is working for you, I have two ferminators which I am consider building the same for, to mange temps for crashing/lagering... Have you put it to use yet?

 

[lhommedieu]

I've been able to build the unit but I haven't put it to use yet. I've been too busy with family matters. But I plan to use it after Christmas. I'll post then and let you know how it goes.