SS Brewtech eKettles and V3 panel vs ???

[passedpawn]

I now use a SS Brewtech 20g Mash tun, and love it. I'm thinking about converting the rest of my system to SS Brewtech. I now have converted kegs and a 30A Electric Brewing panel.

I really don't NEED to go with SS Brewtech, since the mash tun would integrate fine with any other kettles, but it'd be nice to stick with the same, mostly for aesthetics. Thoughts?

Some questions here:

1. Anyone use their eKettles with the round element? Thoughts?
2. Can I connect their eKettle to a controller that is not from Brewtech? They say that, due to their 3mm RTD connectors, their panel is required. I wonder how hard it would be to convert that to anyone else's sensor inputs. Any thoughts on their brew panel? Looks like a super-simple layout, which I like.
3. They say their 3V panel requires TWO 30A dedicated GFCI circuits. Is this true? Can it be run on a single 50- or 60-amp 240V circuit? I suppose they have internal 30A wiring which needs to be protected upstream. Not sure.

 

[Bobby_M]

My main beef with the SS elements is just how integrated and proprietary everything is. While you can power the elements with a non-SS controller, you wouldn't be able to use the built in temp sensor as everyone seems to use a different sensing technology.

They do have a pretty low watt density, but I don't know what the replacement cost is if you were to dry fire it. A very similar circular design is found in the Blichmann boil coil and they are also a bit pricy.
I have always used the integrated TC ripple style elements that I sell (also found on Spike gear) and have never had any issues with scorching.

The last design you may want to consider is the Brewbuilt Slingblade elements which are like a hybrid of the circular and ripple, but seriously I don't buy into the proposed benefits. I stick with the ripple because it works well and has a pretty low replacement cost. I have no issues getting a good whirlpool and the boil rolls nicely.

As far as controllers go, I'm a hard pass on anything with a plain PID. The Auber EZboil is so good.

 

[passedpawn]

I've used the Camco ripples since I built my first e-keggles, 2009. So yes, I'm a fan. The one big problem with them, and it sorta bugs me, is I find it impossible to do a whirlpool with that in the middle. I might be possible of the element was mounted higher - mine are dang near touching the bottom.

I've had scorching a couple of times. It was always on a second batch, and usually because I had a bunch of hop debris clogged between the parallel elements of the ripple. I also scorched a hop bag that was sitting on them (containing lots of hops). I guess the lesson is that as long as liquid is touching the elements, they can't get above 212F, but if they are covered with something solid, burn.

 

[passedpawn]

My main beef with the SS elements is just how integrated and proprietary everything is. While you can power the elements with a non-SS controller, you wouldn't be able to use the built in temp sensor as everyone seems to use a different sensing technology.

They do have a pretty low watt density, but I don't know what the replacement cost is if you were to dry fire it. A very similar circular design is found in the Blichmann boil coil and they are also a bit pricy.
I have always used the integrated TC ripple style elements that I sell (also found on Spike gear) and have never had any issues with scorching.

The last design you may want to consider is the Brewbuilt Slingblade elements which are like a hybrid of the circular and ripple, but seriously I don't buy into the proposed benefits. I stick with the ripple because it works well and has a pretty low replacement cost. I have no issues getting a good whirlpool and the boil rolls nicely.

As far as controllers go, I'm a hard pass on anything with a plain PID. The Auber EZboil is so good.

... I forgot all about those slingblade elements. Hmmm.

Regarding dryfire, you might have seen the video I like to show around this forum of me cleaning my elements by intentionally dry-firing them. Might not be the best thing to suggest for others, since I can only recommend it for my Camco 2963's. Only appropriate for the incoloy, not for the SS. But I've done it MANY times and I've never had any problem with my elements. I think one of them, at least, is the original. I did replace one a few years ago.

 

[Bobby_M]

It would be impossible for me to install the TC ripples too low just due to the clearance needed for the TC ferrule but I'd say mine have about 1.5" below them. I have pictures somewhere showing a well formed trub/hop cone right in the middle.

The one downside I see with the slingblade and blichmann is that the wattage is lower than it needs to be. Both are 4500 watts on the 15G size. Maybe1000 watts is not a deal breaker.

I wouldn't recommend dry firing on purpose in any case. Hot PBW will clean the elements just fine. On any of the stainless elements, red/white hot will mess with the chromium oxide layer and the amount of bending that the element goes through can cause the core to migrate closer to the sheath and eventually short out. Not terribly expensive on the threaded camco, but nothing something you want to spring for on the $75+ elements.

 

[passedpawn]

It would be impossible for me to install the TC ripples too low just due to the clearance needed for the TC ferrule but I'd say mine have about 1.5" below them. I have pictures somewhere showing a well formed trub/hop cone right in the middle.

The one downside I see with the slingblade and blichmann is that the wattage is lower than it needs to be. Both are 4500 watts on the 15G size. Maybe1000 watts is not a deal breaker.

I wouldn't recommend dry firing on purpose in any case. Hot PBW will clean the elements just fine. On any of the stainless elements, red/white hot will mess with the chromium oxide layer and the amount of bending that the element goes through can cause the core to migrate closer to the sheath and eventually short out. Not terribly expensive on the threaded camco, but nothing something you want to spring for on the $75+ elements.

I won't be installing in keggles. I'm going to legit pots now, prolly 20g, so I imagine I can at least go to the 5000W slingblade. I could live with 4500 though. I get to boil pretty quick, and once there I turn down to 70%. But that's with about 13g. I might end up with bigger batches if I get bigger kettles. Yea, probably don't want to go down to 4500.