clamp over float valve.
Ho do you guys with solos and RO water filters fill the kettle?
Before brew day?
Just check on it every so often?
Day before. I get 4-6 gph out of my RO unit. Usually brew on Saturdays, so get home from work on Friday, set up system, start filling water, check on it every couple of hours while I do chores, cook dinner, etc.
View attachment 723992
As someone who recently flooded my laundry room/ with probably 25-50gallons of water while filling a 5 gallon cube, that inevitably leaked into my basement, I would have gladly payed the $23 mentioned here to not have to do that clean up, removal of drywall in my basement ceiling, etc.This is a recipe for a flood. If it hasn't happened yet, you've just been lucky but you will one day get distracted.
$5 float valve Plastic Float Valve For Reverse Osmosis RO System#SP-FV
$18 stainless clamp over mount (or make something DIY) PT-FVBS Stainless adjustable Float valve bracket kit small
I'm not going to lie, but that foil wrapped 240V plug has me worried for you man. I would consider wrapping that in something that isn't conductive if you're worried about getting anything on the plug.Brewed yesterday and loved the solo.
Of course, I totally screwed up right from the start of brewing. Up until 3 batches ago I've just had my lhbs mill my grains and then I come directly home and dump em into my waiting prepped/heated mash water. Been doing this for 8 years now.
So, naturally I dumped 2/3 of the grain in and then realized what I had done, stopped, and pulled the basket out.
I actually laughed. I milled the dry grains I had and then milled the soggy grains too. It looked like it sorta "hurt" the grains but they were far from correctly milled. I then proceeded with my brew day.
63% mash efficiency.
This doesn't mean anything to me tho and I look forward to finding out what kinda numbers I hit with a real crush.
That said I ended up at 1.053 after the boil rather than the beersmith predicted 1.063.
Beersmith was, however, DEAD on with all water/wort volumes. 6 gallons into the fermenter almost exactly.
Because 2/3 of my grains were merely bruised u had no issue with stuck recirculation.
The mash temp was consistently 2⁰F lower than what the solo was reading. This made it easy as I just turned up the solo controller 2⁰. I continued to check temps during the mash, but don't think it'll be necessary in the future.
You know, I honestly just wasn't thinking straight. I had it sitting on the table and it was the right size, so I just laid it on there. Bad move.As someone who recently flooded my laundry room/ with probably 25-50gallons of water while filling a 5 gallon cube, that inevitably leaked into my basement, I would have gladly payed the $23 mentioned here to not have to do that clean up, removal of drywall in my basement ceiling, etc.
I'm not going to lie, but that foil wrapped 240V plug has me worried for you man. I would consider wrapping that in something that isn't conductive if you're worried about getting anything on the plug.
You're a real homebrewing hero. That is the elegant solution I was hoping existed.This is a recipe for a flood. If it hasn't happened yet, you've just been lucky but you will one day get distracted.
$5 float valve Plastic Float Valve For Reverse Osmosis RO System#SP-FV
$18 stainless clamp over mount (or make something DIY) PT-FVBS Stainless adjustable Float valve bracket kit small
This is a recipe for a flood. If it hasn't happened yet, you've just been lucky but you will one day get distracted.
Based on that, I suspect that you'd also say that checking on my smoker every couple hours or so while cooking up a brisket is a recipe for a catastrophic fire.
Nah, I disagree. I took the time to figure out what my production rate is on my RO system and check on it several times throughout the fill to confirm liquid level and production rate. At ~5gph with final volumes between 14 and 20 gallons it is plenty safe.
I have no trouble keeping track of multiple processes at the same time, especially when one of them is relatively slow, like a home-brew scale RO system.
Almost sounds like without a neutral to the controller you will have unpredictable results. You will need neutral for proper 120 volts and the ground for obvious reasons.I've already sent Spike an email asking for advice, but I thought I would ask everyone here in case someone might know what is going on.
My Solo+ system arrived today. I had my electrician friend over to install the 240 circuit to run the system.
I have a shed that I am brewing in that has a subpanel feeding from the garage.
He ran 10/3 wire from the subpanel to a 50amp Spa Panel so we could have the GFCI breaker in the spa panel.
Connected the Spa Panel to a 14-30 outlet.
He plugged in the controller and with everything turned on, he tested all the outlets on the Panel with a meter.
The problem is that we are showing 240v out of the pump and Acc outlet. The outlet for the Element is showing 120v.
These should be reversed, correct? Did he wire something incorrectly between the subpanel, spa panel and outlet, or is there something wrong with the controller?
I've only done four batches with my condensing lid, but I'm able to turn the PID down to 28% and still keep a rolling boil without any foam. What are you setting your PID at after you get a boil?I have brewed 13 batches in my Solo with a Spike condenser lid. The learning curve was steep, but my process is now repeatable and under control. OG and FG are matching Brewsmith’s estimates exactly (that’s probably luck, not skill). I get a very pronounced trub cone in the whirlpool. My wort is clear with little or no grain. My mash doesn’t get stuck. My efficiency is equal to my old picnic cooler setup. Brewing indoors out of the wind and weather makes brew day a lot more pleasant. Cleanup is easy...not fun...but easy. All in all, this is a fantastic piece of equipment that works great. I am down to one remaining issue...or it may not really be an issue at all. I get a lot more foaming with the condenser lid than I used to with an open brew kettle. This causes a lot of hop matter to stick to the side of the brew kettle just above the wort level. Does anybody else have this problem? Is it even a problem? Is there a solution if it is a problem? My beer tastes better than ever so that might be the answer. Thanks, everybody, who posts on this forum. Your ideas, observations, and knowledge are a big help.
I’m at 60% power in manual mode once the boil gets started. Do you know your evaporation rate at 28% power? I measured mine and am at 1.25 gallons per hour at 60%. Reducing power further sounds like a good thing to try. Thanks!I've only done four batches with my condensing lid, but I'm able to turn the PID down to 28% and still keep a rolling boil without any foam. What are you setting your PID at after you get a boil?
I’m at 60% power in manual mode once the boil gets started. Do you know your evaporation rate at 28% power? I measured mine and am at 1.25 gallons per hour at 60%. Reducing power further sounds like a good thing to try. Thanks!
How did you get the Blichmann autosparge connected to the triclamp basket? I just ordered a Solo 15 and would like to do that but haven't figured on the connections yet.That was something I experienced too. Got set up to use the Blichmann AutoSparge from my 3v system in the basket... no more over-run mash for me.
That's 40lbs of grain to run a partigyle for 5g of Rye Wine and 10g of Rye Mild. I've use loc-line off of the autosparge for smaller grain bills, but this was a good picture of how it sits in the basket.
I didn't buy a CF chiller with my Solo because I have a Jaded Hydra chiller that I plan on using. I read earlier that someone else uses one and they used a hook and some zip ties to hang it from the side to keep it off the element.
Would there be any good reason why I couldn't take the grain basket, clean it out during the boil, and then put it back in the kettle at the end of the boil and set the IC on the bottom of the basket to keep it off the element?
I’d like to know as well! Maybe you can be the test pilot and let us know.Has anyone tried the BrauSupply hop blocker with the Solo?
https://brausupply.com/collections/...s/products/hopblock-filter-plate-and-dip-tube
I’d like to know as well! Maybe you can be the test pilot and let us know.
KVbeer, thank you again for sharing your PID settings. I never would have thought to go that low. After some “dry run” trial and error, I tried 35% (15 gallon Solo, 240 Volt). I hit all of my numbers with zero foam and no hops sticking to the side of the kettle. Win! I see you are living in Maine. I lived in Millinocket for a few years. I was “from away”. Thanks again for the tip. Cheers.I've only done four batches with my condensing lid, but I'm able to turn the PID down to 28% and still keep a rolling boil without any foam. What are you setting your PID at after you get a boil?
My pleasure, glad it was an easy fix. I was born and raised in Maine, moved away for 16 years, moved back almost four years ago, and some would still consider me "from away". Tough crowd.KVbeer, thank you again for sharing your PID settings. I never would have thought to go that low. After some “dry run” trial and error, I tried 35% (15 gallon Solo, 240 Volt). I hit all of my numbers with zero foam and no hops sticking to the side of the kettle. Win! I see you are living in Maine. I lived in Millinocket for a few years. I was “from away”. Thanks again for the tip. Cheers.
I have brewed 13 batches in my Solo with a Spike condenser lid. The learning curve was steep, but my process is now repeatable and under control. OG and FG are matching Brewsmith’s estimates exactly (that’s probably luck, not skill). I get a very pronounced trub cone in the whirlpool. My wort is clear with little or no grain. My mash doesn’t get stuck. My efficiency is equal to my old picnic cooler setup. Brewing indoors out of the wind and weather makes brew day a lot more pleasant. Cleanup is easy...not fun...but easy. All in all, this is a fantastic piece of equipment that works great. I am down to one remaining issue...or it may not really be an issue at all. I get a lot more foaming with the condenser lid than I used to with an open brew kettle. This causes a lot of hop matter to stick to the side of the brew kettle just above the wort level. Does anybody else have this problem? Is it even a problem? Is there a solution if it is a problem? My beer tastes better than ever so that might be the answer. Thanks, everybody, who posts on this forum. Your ideas, observations, and knowledge are a big help.
I had the same concern, so I added a brace under the basket port to hold it level while lautering.Lifting the basket was no problem with 2 guys, but I will be getting a hoist for solo brewing. I'm Wondering if having the basket level while draining will help the drain rate instead of it being tilted and draining to one side.
Did that make any difference?I had the same concern, so I added a brace under the basket port to hold it level while lautering.
It certainly helps the wort drain through the grains evenly, so it looks like a better setup if nothing else. But in practice, I was also changing my grain crush and adding rice hulls in some batches so it's really hard to tell if it made any difference in my numbers. I also press the grains after lautering, and having the brace in place to keep the basket level I think helps get the last of the wort out, too.Did that make any difference?
OceanGrace24, thanks for replying.Add some Fermcap as you are getting up to boil temperature before the hot break starts. Or, wait and add it as your hot break starts to rise to see the effect that it has on the foam. It will basically eliminate it completely. I'll add about 10-15 drops. It's like $5 for a small bottle and I have had the same bottle for 2 years. I add it to my starters, to my boil and then to my fermenter. I also use it when I am cooking pasta! The stuff is magic.
Enter your email address to join: