Fwiw... you don't have to buy Spike's... but i think theirs IS designed just for them. I have since gotten TC products (gaskets clamps reducers etc.) From the amazon, and i think other sites might be even cheaper.
The only thing I would like the Spike racking arm to have is a handle to help you turn it. There are others out there with this feature. I might pick up one to try out. Looks like Stout Tanks offers one that could work. I'll need to make some measurements after I clean out the fermenter that I'll be filling on Sunday.
I also have the CF5. I pressure ferment @ 6-8psi and use the fermentation Co2 to purge 2 (in line), 2.5 gallon kegs. I set the racking arm in a horizontal to slightly down position prior to fermentation. For the transfer, I first rotate the racking arm to a 45 degree up position and give a quick open & close to eject any trub, then equalize the conical and keg by connecting a purged gas line to the spunding valve (Blichmann) and the keg gas post. Once equalized, I flood the transfer tubing and fill up the hydrometer tube for a FG reading, then connect to the keg out post and begin the transfer, using gravity to fill the keg which pushes the keg Co2 back into the fermentor. This has proven to work best for me and saves Co2.
I have a dual body regulator for the CO2 feed going into manifolds (one each). I also have the nitro mix going to another set of manifolds (I ganged them up since I wanted to use what I already had for that feed).
I have three faucets on CO2 and three stout faucets. All are stainless (except for the handles). I went with the old school style stout faucets (from MoreBeer) and have been thinking about changing one of the CO2 ones to another stout. I ordered the stout regulator from MoreBeer and then just went to one of the gas suppliers in my area for the 75/25 nitro/CO2 mix bottle. I went with the smaller one (5# CO2 size equal) for the first tank. Depending on how long it lasts will determine what I get when it's time for more. Since all my gas bottles are outside the keezer, going to a larger one is no issue at all.
I pressure ferment and use a teflon gasket between the conical and racking arm and never had a leak, and being able to turn the arm with only a slight loosening of the clamp makes things a whole lot easier.I tried using one of the Teflon gaskets but they didn't seal 100% during my pre-fil CO2 test. I switched back to the black gasket (provided with the conical) and those seal 100%. I'm able to loosen the clamp enough to rotate the racking arm without losing the seal. I use the butterfly valve as the handle. I'd just rather have an actual handle on the racking arm, so that I can have the valve handle set where it makes things easier. Or as I wish.
I oxygenate at my plate chiller as the wort goes into fermenter with the item from SS Brew Tech. I carbonate with the carbonation stone (from Spike) only. I connect it to the racking arm so that it also clears that item of anything that might be in it.
Hagmanngr, sorry to hear about your transfer issue yet I’m laughing at the same time. I had this happen last month...twice in a row...not happy. The good news is there are so many experienced brewers on HomeBrewTalk you can always get assistance.
Sorry, no picture. Yes, I have the Blichmann TC spunding valve and adjust to 6-8 psi. It’s spring loaded and you adjust by either tightening or loosening the blowoff portion of the valve. Initially I routed the blowoff tubing through sanitizer before going into the kegs to avoid any krausen infiltration, but seeing that the krausen line from a 5.5 gallon batch of 6.5% beer in my CF5 never has come near to the lid, I now go directly from the spunding valve to the first of two, 2.5 gallon kegs. The kegs are linked together, blowoff tubing to beer out post > gas post to beer out post of second keg > gas post of second keg to sanitizer. There is no pressure buildup in either keg as the co2 flows freely once past the spunding valve. I have the short extension legs on my conical and that gives me the clearance needed for the gravity transfer. I use gas tubing to connect everything which, for me, required 3/8” barbed keg connects to work (they are not the easiest to source). I initially used silicone tubing but have read that it is o2 permeable and not good for this application.
Fully carbonated beer is moved from the CF10 into my serving kegs and into cans (using a Tapcooler filler). I'm getting full amounts of beer into the keg as well. Since the beer is chilled, I can typically watch the fill level from the outside. When it hits the 'full' level line I typically stop. I'm also getting some foam out of the hose on the gas port, but not a ton.
Confirmed 3/8-16. I just checked one of the feet I didn't use with my two CF10's.
FWIW, I never use my carb stone at all. I just swap out the blowoff tube for the pressure relief/gauge/gas post fitting and put a spunding valve on there near the end of Fermentation. Get some natural carbonation and no dealing with cleaning that stone!When I was getting ready to place my two CF10 fermenters order, I worked with one of the rep's at Spike to make sure I had what I needed. That included the racking arm in each fermenter. I also got the document that shows how much it leaves behind.
IIRC, I spent about $2200 on the two fermenters fully setup. I only ordered one carbonating stone since I didn't expect to need to carbonate what's in both fermenters at the same time. Small savings. At least everything (over $100) ships free.
Perfect. Especially the "splashy sound"! Thanks.
I use the carb stone on every batch. Even fermenting under pressure. I don't use blowoff tubes either. Even with the residual CO2 volumes in the beer, it still needs CO2 to carbonate fully. With the carbonation stone I can get the batch fully carbonated in 2-3 days. Which means, as soon as the keg is in the keezer it can go on tap and glasses poured. I also can off conical, which also makes things a lot easier. I pull 2.5-3 gallons into keg, the rest gets canned.
