Spa panel

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Gonefishing

Someday I'll stop procrastinating
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It appears that in the 17,256 threads related to wiring a spa panel for an electric brewery the diagram to go from a 3 wire input to a 4-wire spa panel are too old to show up anymore. I didn't print it out all those years ago when I started this project, or possibly I did and lost it, but at any rate, I don't have it. I did just discover that the house I moved into has a 4 wire spa panel that has a 30 amp gfci breaker in it already. Would I be better off to simply use that and run wire from that back to my garage where the brewery will be? And, when connecting to the pot does the 3 wires that connect to the heating element and the pot provide GFCI protection?
Of course, I'm doing this last minute... this brew needs to be boiled very soon as it has to be ready to tap on July 1st.
 
If you are going to run wire, you would be better off running a new circuit from your main panel. If new wiring, do four wire from the main panel. GFCI can either be in the main panel or a spa panel.

Spa Panel w 3-wire feed.jpg

Note that the three wire outlet into which this gets plugged must be hot-hot-neutral and not hot-hot-ground. In the drawing, yellow is neutral and red and blue are hot.

Yes, GFCI protection extends to the kettle. You run two hots and a ground to the kettle, but no neutral.

Brew on :mug:
 
Thanks, Doug, you answered a lot of questions for me.
I had already decided to run a new circuit, so this morning I bought a 30 amp breaker for that purpose. I have had the 10-3 wire for about 6 years so I'll finally get the box open and put it to use.
 
UPDATE: Tonight I ran the 10/3 I've owned for 6 years, from the breaker I've had for a week to the 50amp Home Depot spa panel I bought 6 years ago and I now have a working spa panel into which to plug my control box.
The plan right now is to be boiling a 5-gallon batch tomorrow morning. I'm going to have to do a full current boil at this point because I don't have the full control panel done so there's no PWM yet.
 
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