Thanks, will have to locate where the leak is exactly, but will keep that in mind as a possible easier fix. Hope I can fix it as everything else is working well and it is kinda of a cool set up for pop and beer.
Beautiful job!
In case the links don't work, part #'s
45605K711 Std-wall 304/304l Ss Butt-weld Pipe Fitting, Unthrd, 3/4" X 1/2" Pipe, 1-1/2"l, Reducer, Sch 40
4335T64 Unthrd, Low-pressure 304 Ss Sckt-weld Fitting, 1" Pipe Size, Coupling, 150 Psi
92620A810 Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw, Zinc Yellow Pltd, 5/8"-11 Thrd, 4-1/2"l,fully Thrd
-Joe
I went the solder-a-fitting-on route. It worked perfectly and was very easy. Steps I took:
- Drilled a hole in the side of the kettle so the element would go through (I think 1 1/16" or 1 1/8").
- Sanded and cleaned the outside of the kettle.
- Sanded and cleaned the 1" NPT locknut.
- Fluxed the outside of the kettle around the hole.
- Put two rounds of 1/16" solder around the hole.
- Fluxed the bottom of the locknut and sat it on top of the solder.
- Heated the locknut (which by proxy heated the kettle) until the solder flowed.
- Let it cool without touching it.
- Profit!
*removed image*
-Joe
Scut_Monkey said:I have noticed that the 1/2" couplings from mcmaster-carr have the perfect diameter to go with the reducer for the flaring tool (also from mcmaster-carr). However, the 1/2" couplings from bargain fittings are slightly too small while the coupling from austinhomebrew that I have is much too large. Like Flomaster advised, if the fitting is slightly smaller don't pull the reducer completely through.
What size punch should be used for a 1/2" fitting?
1" fitting?
I just got the McMC fittings for a keg tool and some practice 1/2" couplings
The problem is the couplings are a good 3/32" + bigger than the flare. Did something change or did I order the wrong couplings? They look proportionally much thicker than everyone's photos.
nate456789,Way easier than using the Tig on it.
Takes less than half the time too. I don't have to worry about back gassing or cleaning up any burnt flux with a grinder. I am sold on it.
I position the piece after I punch and dimple. Wrap two pieces of silver solder on it and hit it with heat. Done. On to the next one.
nate456789,
Looks like you're just positioning the coupling on the dimple rather than pulling it partly through it. Looks like that works fine. Might be less secure mechanically.
nate456789,
Looks like you're just positioning the coupling on the dimple rather than pulling it partly through it. Looks like that works fine. Might be less secure mechanically.
I've got the exact same situation. The reducer fitting (the die) OD is 1.06" and the OD of the couplers are 1.20" (4464K473). I agree with you that these couplers are very thick walled compared to pics of others. These are rough cast vs my other weldless kit couplers that have been turned on the OD (smooth and shiny). The inking reads "SP-114 CHINA MB 1/2" 304 150"
So for this trick to work I guess we need to find couplers with a compatible OD. Does anyone have a recommendation?
Bobby the 1/2" coupler you sent Saturday looks good. Its a RCH under the size of the McMC tool but should work using the usual tricks.
I wonder if there would be any appreciable advantage in turning the oversized fittings down on a lathe but leaving a 3/32" lip at one end. The thought being it could provide extra surface area for solder bonding and mechanically prevent pull thru.
...or more likely just order a good one from you.
If you're interested, I can throw a caliper on the couplings I have.
At first I thought it would be leaking because a lot of locknuts used here are straight thread and not tapered. It's obvious in the picture that it's not leaking from there though. Just my opinion and what I would do is just clean the joint real well, make hex ring of solder around the nut, heat it up and try again. Just curious, why did you use a lock nut?
What size hole did you drill? Maybe you can remove the lock nuts and add a half or full coupling?
Well, after applying a good amount of force with a wrench, the locknut popped off!
I guess the silver solder doesn't hold up as well to torsional stress. I had quite a lot of leverage as I was turning a fitting with a sizable wrench. But still, me no likey.
Any comments on this?
I don't think it's really an issue, although I do have to tighten down the elements, they have a gasket so they're not getting the kind of torque I gave the sight glass locknut.
But it doesn't make me happy.
How would a coupling be any different, really?
I torqued off one of my sight glass couplers just the other night. Ticked me off. I soldered it just like in the youtube video. Step-by-Step. I was turning it with a LARGE adjustable wrench. I just did not remember I was torquing against a soldered joint. I had 1" automotive/structural bolt in mind. After I took it out, cleaned it up and re-soldered it, I counter-torqued the fitting inside the keggle with some channel locks. No problem... got it nice and tight this time and did not break the joint again! haha!
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