Show Me Your Wood Brew Sculpture/Rig

[micahshaw]

So, the southeast was on the verge of being crippled by another ice storm, and I rush to Lowe's to get supplies. No, not shovels or batteries or generators. No, I went to get some lumber to build a brew stand now that I actually have a few days off, trapped in my house.

The big question is were to put the casters. If I put them in the end, I am a bit concerned that the center will start to sag. If I put 6 instead of 4, it is almost certain to be unstable. If I move one set of casters in I under the support for the upper tear, I am concerned the section hanging of work start to sag. Any advice from those of you who have made these? With the 2x6 frame, I may just be worrying too much about nothing.

Either way, it will be nice upgrade over the folding table I have been cautiously putting that mash tun on.

Micah

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[iijakii]

I don't really get what's going on there on the right. Why not just chop the extended portion off and leave the burner stand alone next to your table?

 

[sharpstick]

I would put the casters under the 4 x 4s and leave the short end hanging. When you get it in operating position, slide a stabilizing bar under the loose end to support the weight. (You're using locking casters, right?)
Or you could put the casters on the outer corners and prop up the center part. Whe you're moving it, it is probably half the weight of when it's parked and loaded up.

 

[micahshaw]

I don't really get what's going on there on the right. Why not just chop the extended portion off and leave the burner stand alone next to your table?

While that is clearly the optimal solution, I just really don't like the idea of setting it up next to the stand. I really like the idea that all my brew day equipment will have a specific place in the stand, and I can just wheel it out and start brewing.

Also, I need some sort of a ridged perforated bottom for that section in case of boil overs. I haven't added that yet. I might just use wood slats.

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[iijakii]

I'd do the four corners of the main one and then a 5th for support on that side part then. Or just do a kickstand/bar like ^^ said.

 

[micahshaw]

I would put the casters under the 4 x 4s and leave the short end hanging. When you get it in operating position, slide a stabilizing bar under the loose end to support the weight. (You're using locking casters, right?)
Or you could put the casters on the outer corners and prop up the center part. Whe you're moving it, it is probably half the weight of when it's parked and loaded up.

I don't love the idea of having a separate prop I need to use, but this does seem like a reasonable solution. Does anyone else have a 6 foot span like this that knows if sagging is even an issue?

As far as the casters, I think I should be able to get some locking ones from harbor freight, but I didn't see any last time.

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[dlaramie08]

I don't love the idea of having a separate prop I need to use, but this does seem like a reasonable solution. Does anyone else have a 6 foot span like this that knows if sagging is even an issue?

As far as the casters, I think I should be able to get some locking ones from harbor freight, but I didn't see any last time.

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Yeah mine has the same span and I have had no sagging issues. I have had my mash tun full with 10lbs of grain and the appropriate amount of water and had the hlt with 5 gallons of water in it. No sagging issues with casters at the corners.

 

[buildingmotive]

Here's my monster.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Does anyone else have a 6 foot span like this that knows if sagging is even an issue?

I would think that stand is plenty sturdy to use a caster in each corner. Looks like 2X6 lumber...that could hold a small car, assuming your connections are proper.

 

[horseinmay]

"The big question is were to put the casters. If I put them in the end, I am a bit concerned that the center will start to sag. If I put 6 instead of 4, it is almost certain to be unstable. "

I don't know where you get the idea that 6 casters would make it unstable (Civil engineer here). If 4 on the corners will allow it to sag, then put two more in the middle. From experience, you will want all of them to be swivel casters - for maneuverability.

Ben

 

[AnOldUR]

 

[iijakii]

What, can't afford to turn on the lights after buying all that gear?

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I don't love the idea of having a separate prop I need to use, but this does seem like a reasonable solution. Does anyone else have a 6 foot span like this that knows if sagging is even an issue?

As far as the casters, I think I should be able to get some locking ones from harbor freight, but I didn't see any last time.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

Casters.......Get 4 true "casters", one for each corner, and 1 "fixed" caster of the same height, and mount it in the center of the stand.
You will have no problems with maneuverability, and if you find locking casters, use two of those diagonally from each other.

 

[micahshaw]

I don't know where you get the idea that 6 casters would make it unstable (Civil engineer here). If 4 on the corners will allow it to sag, then put two more in the middle. From experience, you will want all of them to be swivel casters - for maneuverability.

Theoretically, 6 would work fine. But I put this together in half a day, and used lumber off the top of the stack. If I put 2 additional casters in, all those little warps and inaccuracies will likely show up as a rock, like a bad table at a cheap restaurant.

Plus, the casters are already nearly half the cost of the whole project. I did end up ordering 4 locking swivel casters. And since I am calling this version 1.0, I think I am going to just put the casters on the corners, and build a new one in a few years if it starts to sag. From others experience, I think it should be fine.

Micah


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[spointon]

I don't love the idea of having a separate prop I need to use, but this does seem like a reasonable solution. Does anyone else have a 6 foot span like this that knows if sagging is even an issue?

As far as the casters, I think I should be able to get some locking ones from harbor freight, but I didn't see any last time.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

Those rails look like they are 2 x 6 (at least) lumber. That is not going to sag appreciably under the weight you will put on it. If it ever does sag, it will be years from now, when you are tired of that stand and ready to build a new one

 

[n240sxguy]

So, the southeast was on the verge of being crippled by another ice storm, and I rush to Lowe's to get supplies. No, not shovels or batteries or generators. No, I went to get some lumber to build a brew stand now that I actually have a few days off, trapped in my house.

The big question is were to put the casters. If I put them in the end, I am a bit concerned that the center will start to sag. If I put 6 instead of 4, it is almost certain to be unstable. If I move one set of casters in I under the support for the upper tear, I am concerned the section hanging of work start to sag. Any advice from those of you who have made these? With the 2x6 frame, I may just be worrying too much about nothing.

Either way, it will be nice upgrade over the folding table I have been cautiously putting that mash tun on.

Micah

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

It shouldn't sag. Mine is made out of 2X6's, has an extra top level for my HLT, has 2X6 boards where you have the chip board, and I use a keggle for 10 gal batches. I have solid casters on the back, and swivels on the front. Make sure you get good casters though. I need to replace mine because I used cheap ones.


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[micahshaw]

It shouldn't sag. Mine is made out of 2X6's, has an extra top level for my HLT, has 2X6 boards where you have the chip board, and I use a keggle for 10 gal batches. I have solid casters on the back, and swivels on the front. Make sure you get good casters though. I need to replace mine because I used cheap ones.


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That makes me feel better about my decision to avoid the non locking casters from harbor freight for half the price, and get some good locking ones from Lowe's. Looking forward to its inaugural brew on Friday.

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[jaybagley]

How do three tier folks protect your igloo coolers from the burner heat when brewing. This is the solution I came up with, I'm just wondering what other options people have.

 

[n240sxguy]

I use a rectangular cooler, so only a few inches is above the wood on the middle layer. It doesn't get hot enough there that I can't hold my hand there with the burner running wide open.


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[micahshaw]

First brew day with the new stand was a success. Although the wood under the burner was fairly hot, there was no scorching.


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[ssgross]

Micahshaw, see my build post in this thread for solving this. I use 2ftx2ft ceramic tiles on top of mdf. I think i posted temp readings between each piece.

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[southwoodbrew]

Budget Kal All Election System in my basement. Stand and hood made of wood.

 

[BeerGrylls]

Budget Kal All Election System in my basement. Stand and hood made of wood.

None of your kettles match! It's enough to drive an OCD brewer crazy! ...me? I love it. The wood hood is sick. Nice work.

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Here's what I was able to slap together. I took the idea from a thread by kerschup called "Atypical wood brew stand". But also want to give a massive thanks to everyone on the RIMS for dummies thread as well. Between those two, it was enough to get me over the edge. You might notice I got the lines to/from the pumps reversed - has been corrected! Took a few batches to work out all the bugs but yesterday I had a flawless brew day.... SWEET!!

 

[nosnhojm20]

I'm looking to build a wood stand. I am curious, is there a formula out there to determine how tall I can make the table and it not tip over? I figure there has to be some minimum height to width ratio out there but I can't find it.

Context: I'd like to have a single tier for electric brewing that I can store the kettles under the tabletop, and the pumps under the lower shelf.

 

[BeastlyBrew]

Put some old gym equipment to use


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[old-pasture-brew]

"I'm looking to build a wood stand. I am curious, is there a formula out there to determine how tall I can make the table and it not tip over?"

I can say my stand is 41" tall and 29.5" deep. The height includes 4" for the casters. However, I think what really matters regarding tipping is center of gravity. As for storing the pots underneath, that's exactly what I did and love it. Just don't make it so tall you can't see in the pots....

 

[Rockn_M]

I was finally able to put the last coat of polyurethane on it yesterday. 1 project down about 1,000 more until my Kal clone eHERMS is complete.

 

[nosnhojm20]

^Lookin' slick. Pretty much exactly what I want to do. I'm nervous of using polyeurathane with the temperatures of a boil, effectively melting it. Do you plan on putting something between it and the ekettle? I am new to ebrewing, go easy on me.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm nervous of using polyeurathane with the temperatures of a boil, effectively melting it. Do you plan on putting something between it and the ekettle? I am new to ebrewing, go easy on me.

With e-brewing the kettle doesn't get that hot, just boiling temps. I suppose that could leave a mark on polyurethane? My wood stand is just oiled and not that pretty, perhaps a hand towel would help, but likely not needed.

 

[nosnhojm20]

Right on. Good to know. I was thinking aloud.


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[rcm_rx7]

^Lookin' slick. Pretty much exactly what I want to do. I'm nervous of using polyeurathane with the temperatures of a boil, effectively melting it. Do you plan on putting something between it and the ekettle? I am new to ebrewing, go easy on me.

Not sure if it makes a difference, but the original kal electric brewery used cork boards under the kettles to protect the wood. Considering how cheap they are I think I'll go that route. Probably won't make a difference though!

 

[poptarts]

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...x=cork+plan,aps&rh=i:aps,k:cork plant coaster

 

[Rockn_M]

^Lookin' slick. Pretty much exactly what I want to do. I'm nervous of using polyeurathane with the temperatures of a boil, effectively melting it. Do you plan on putting something between it and the ekettle? I am new to ebrewing, go easy on me.

I plan on putting either a piece of cork or a spare piece of wood to keep the BK from burning or melting the poly. The HLT shouldn't cause any problems.


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[Setesh]

I shortened my recycled pallet brew stand. I got really tired really quick of standing on a ladder to empty the mash tun. Here is the original version:


And here is the shortened version. I also added another pump for back to back batches. I can now shorten my brew day for 2 batches by about 2 hours. Can't decide if I want to wire in a foot switch for the chiller pump or run it to the panel.

 

[Polyphaeon]

Yeah it seems to me that brew stands are often unreasonably tall.
Nice work!

 

[Phillypony50]

She's going on her maiden voyage tomorrow. Can't wait!

 

[Tuckerl]

So, the southeast was on the verge of being crippled by another ice storm, and I rush to Lowe's to get supplies. No, not shovels or batteries or generators. No, I went to get some lumber to build a brew stand now that I actually have a few days off, trapped in my house.

The big question is were to put the casters. If I put them in the end, I am a bit concerned that the center will start to sag. If I put 6 instead of 4, it is almost certain to be unstable. If I move one set of casters in I under the support for the upper tear, I am concerned the section hanging of work start to sag. Any advice from those of you who have made these? With the 2x6 frame, I may just be worrying too much about nothing.

Either way, it will be nice upgrade over the folding table I have been cautiously putting that mash tun on.

Micah

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

Mine works pretty good with six. It's very stable and easy to move around.

 

[Tizzomes]

Here's my wood!

 

[blaster_54738]

Here's my new stand, not quite finished. Still need to mount the casters, pumps and two burners to each side of the MASH tun (and get the flashing to help dissipate heat. Probably going to put some sort of sheet metal on the bottom too to help with water