Flaviking
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, Just got my RIMS tube in the mail yesterday, looking to see some of everyone's set up to help me decide on where and how to hook it up. Looking forward to seeing some great ideas!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Here is the two-tier system I built for 5-gal batches.
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Weird request, but I'm trying to figure out a sparge/mash recirculation option and would like to see some more pics of your silicone tubing recirculation arm. Could you post some more?
rwc_617,
thanks. the last of my electronic parts are trickling in.
cheers
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Hafmpty, currently I'm using 1/2" silicone tubing for the RIMS return and 3/8" silicone for the sparge arm. I cannibalized a couple of stainless BBQ skewers and bent them such that they hold up the tubes just above the grain bed. For each tube, I used a silicone bottle stopper to plug one end and I used hollow punch to put holes along both sides of the tube for a fairly even spread of wort or water on the top of the grain bed.
rwc_617,
Thanks for the diagrams. I think I figured out most of the labels. L1-L6 are the lights, T1 & T2 are the termocouples or RTD. Are C1, C2, & C3 the heating elements in the RIMS, HLT, & Boil Kettle respectively? Are C4 & C5 the pumps? Is C0 the power into the controller? ...
LS
No. That is a Normally Open SSR. You need the hard-to-find "-B" at the end to indicate that it is Normally Closed. I will try to find my source. BTW, that line is really only 120V relative to Neutral and to Ground, so you could use a D1240-B, but I never found one of those at a reasonable price. And the extra voltage and amperage capability of the 2450-B makes me feel better....
I found a Crydom D 2450 on ebay, is this the same as the Crydom D2450-B that you used? ...
LS
No. That is a Normally Open SSR. You need the hard-to-find "-B" at the end to indicate that it is Normally Closed. I will try to find my source. BTW, that line is really only 120V relative to Neutral and to Ground, so you could use a D1240-B, but I never found one of those at a reasonable price. And the extra voltage and amperage capability of the 2450-B makes me feel better.
rwc_617,
Thanks for your prompt answer to my question. I will look, too, for the Normally Closed 2450-B variety and dump the NC version from my eBay cart.
cheers
LS
Anyone have any thoughts on mounting it Vertically or horizontally?
LavaSteam, here are some of my wiring diagrams. I used a Normally Closed SSR (Crydom D2450-B), so that juice will be cut to the HLT or the BK whenever the RIMS needs juice. So far so good.
To simplify wiring, I used circuit breaker switches instead of relays. A 12V relay approach would have been cheaper and just as good, but my caveman mentality likes the simplicity of the breaker switches.
I'm familiar with thermocouples from a previous life so I use those, but RTDs are probably a little better and I may migrate that way someday. I like the way my SSVR works for BK control. One criticism of SSVR-BK control is for hop stands, but I can swap the BK element into the HLT controller and dangle a spare thermocouple in the BK during chill down and hold a steady temp. (I've tested it with water but not wort.)
Another thing I like about my setup is augmenting the 4500 W BK element with a 19000 Btu/hr burner on SWMBO's stove -- they really get 6.5 gallons of wort boiling pronto!!
One change I would like to do is on the Pump 1 wiring. In order to avoid scorching in the RIMS tube, I rigged the double pole switch for the RIMS element so that Pump 1 comes one whenever that switch is closed (one pole for the heater, the other for the pump). But since I have a three way L-type valve on the exit of Pump 1, I can divert wort away from the RIMS and scorch the heck out of whatever is still in there. I haven't scorched anything YET, but I would like to copy AugieDoggie's flow valve approach someday.
Good luck with your system, LS!
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