SG totally off - Please help eager nooblet!

[Tweaker]

True Brew Extract kits

I have now completed 4 batches, and I am more than a little frustrated about something. I have repeated SG irregularities and very low alcohol content in 2 or 3 batches. Here are the numbers. I believe I have followed all directions explicitly. I could be wrong.

Brew 1 Bock
forgot to get OG
FG - 1.023 very high (kit brew stats - 1.013)
Tastes great, good carb, suspect very low alc %

2 Amber
OG 1.032 Very low! (kit brew stats - 1.043)
FG 1.018 high (kit brew stats - 1.011)
Alc 1.8% This sucks
Tastes great, good carb, very low alc %

3 Porter
I changed the process by leaving the whole malt can in for boil to get every drop of extract syrup out, in the hopes of increasing OG. Did not work with porter, but Wheat was spot on OG.
OG 1.038 low (kit brew stats - 1.044)
FG 1.021 very high (kit brew stats - 1.013)
Alc 2.2% not even close to what I want

4 Wheat
OG 1.05 perfect! (kit brew stats - 1.050)
FG 1.02 high (kit brew stats - 1.013)
Alc 3.87% average, I would like this a little higher, but not necessary

At this point, I need assistance from you guys to resolve this. My own research makes me think the yeast could be underperforming, but this does not resolve the low OG.

I bought another yeast pack for my next brew, but I have already spent a ton of $ and time, and I do not like the results. Please help me get this right, because they all taste great, but they are similar to an O'Douls in alcohol.

 

[Blender]

It is hard to be off on your starting gravity with extract kits as long as you have the correct volume of wort. The fermentables are will not change unless it is diluted more than called for.

Your problem seems to be unfinished fermentation and your yeast are pooping out to early.

What type of yeast are you using and what are your fermentation temps?

 

[Tweaker]

I totally cannot come up with a reason my OG is so wrong. Should I use less water to compensate?

I am using the Munton's dry yeast provided in the kits. I just purchased some other brand yeast designed for the Octoberfest and Brown Ale which will be next. A previous thread leads me to believe that the Munton's is a generic yeast that sometimes comes up short.

Fermentation temps range (due to A/C in my house) from 68 F to 73 F. Seemingly right in the good range, no?

 

[Blender]

Extracts contain a preset amount of maltose per gallon so one thing that can throw measurements off are incomplete mixing. If your batch calls for 5 gallons at a certain OG I would think it would be there. You could double check your volume measurement to make sure you are actually filling the fermentor to 5 gallons.

Munton's yeast have a lttle history at stopping around 1.020 and I would change to a 11 gram pack of Safale, Nottingham or Danstar dry yeast.

Post a list of your ingredients for a batch and someone can run it through brewing software. I like to ferment below 70 if possible.

 

[Tweaker]

Extracts contain a preset amount of maltose per gallon so one thing that can throw measurements off are incomplete mixing. If your batch calls for 5 gallons at a certain OG I would think it would be there. You could double check your volume measurement to make sure you are actually filling the fermentor to 5 gallons.

Munton's yeast have a lttle history at stopping around 1.020 and I would change to a 11 gram pack of Safale, Nottingham or Danstar dry yeast.

Post a list of your ingredients for a batch and someone can run it through brewing software. I like to ferment below 70 if possible.

I used two measuring devices to verify that 5 gallons was 5 gallons. I marked the side of the carboy. I do not think this is the culprit. Should I use less water anyway, and add it until the OG is right?

The replacement yeast is the Safale US 05 11 gram like you suggested. Hopefully I can adjust the OG with varying the water volume on the front end, and the yeast will outperform the kit yeast and bring the FG down to where it should be.

I don't like the fact that I followed the directions exactly and get such a poor result. Having to buy improved yeast adds to the expense as well.

Any recommendations for a total nooblet to advance beyond these kits?

Thanks for your assistance, also!

 

[user 4295]

Do you know for sure that your hydrometer is good? Check it in some 60˚F distilled water. It should read 1.000. If it reads anything other than that, it's out of calibration. Either get a new one or make note of the deviation and factor it in when taking a reading.

 

[Yuri_Rage]

I used two measuring devices to verify that 5 gallons was 5 gallons.

Incomplete mixing...i.e., the extract wasn't distributed evenly throughout the water, not that the volume was incorrect.

 

[Tweaker]

I thought of this immediately when my first batch wouldn't go lower than 1.023. It reads accurately, but thanks for the idea.

 

[Tweaker]

Incomplete mixing...i.e., the extract wasn't distributed evenly throughout the water, not that the volume was incorrect.

This could be the answer! How do you mix better? I thought it was critical to not introduce O2. Also, I cannot stir in the 6 gallon glass carboy with a narrow opening.

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

I totally cannot come up with a reason my OG is so wrong. Should I use less water to compensate?

I am using the Munton's dry yeast provided in the kits. I just purchased some other brand yeast designed for the Octoberfest and Brown Ale which will be next. A previous thread leads me to believe that the Munton's is a generic yeast that sometimes comes up short.

Fermentation temps range (due to A/C in my house) from 68 F to 73 F. Seemingly right in the good range, no?

I'd say that Munton's is suspect...try some Nottingham dry yeast next time. Every time I've used it, my final gravity reading is below 1.010 when starting as high as 1.060.

 

[Tweaker]

I think you are right. The OG discrepancy just has me boggled though.

The relax have a homebrew comment has little power at <2% alcohol. That is where the relaxation comes from!

 

[user 4295]

This could be the answer! How do you mix better? I thought it was critical to not introduce O2. Also, I cannot stir in the 6 gallon glass carboy with a narrow opening.

Assuming that you are doing a partial boil, meaning that you are only boiling a percentage of your total volume as wort and then topping off the fermenter with water to give you your final volume, then mixing thoroughly is critical to getting an accurate reading with your hydrometer. An easy way to mix the top off water with your wort in a carboy is to place a tennis ball under it and swirl the liquid around.

Also, adding O2 before fermentation begins is absolutely critical. The yeast need the O2 to reproduce. After fermentation has commenced, exposure to O2 is to be avoided at all costs. You won't need to swirl the carboy after fermentation to take an accurate hydrometer reading if you thoroughly mixed it up in the beginning.

 

[Tweaker]

OK thanks! My Porter just blew the fuk up GD! One bottle just popped in the middle, beer everywhere in closet.

 

[Blender]

OK thanks! My Porter just blew the fuk up GD! One bottle just popped in the middle, beer everywhere in closet.

Sorry man, it is likely due to the high FG. I would cover the rest of them up but I guess that is a no brainer. Be careful handling them.

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

OK thanks! My Porter just blew the fuk up GD! One bottle just popped in the middle, beer everywhere in closet.

Whoa! Let's all have a moment of silence for the fallen porter....

Ok, now get the rest of those in the fridge to stop further production of CO2!

 

[Tripod]

Hi Tweaker and All,

First, I am not at all as experienced as the vast majority of brewers on this forum so I can anly offer ideas based on what I've witnessed or read (as opposed to comparing against dozens of past batches...). That being said, I immediately thought of three or four things when I read this thread. All of you masters please feel free to correct me if I get any of this wrong..I'm here to learn too!

1. Temperature during Hydrometer readings. I believe hydrometers are designed to take readings at a specific temp (60 deg F, I think) so if you are measuring SG at room temp (for example) then even pure water won't give you the reading you are expecting. I think there are sliding scales available on web sites that tell you how much to add or subtract to your readings to be correct at different temps.

2. Thorough mixing of wort and water. I've watched other brewers do partial boils and add water afterwards. They always mix the bah-gee-zus out of the two once they get it all in the carboy. My understanding is that aeration is really important prior to fermentation and only should be avoided once the yeast have done their thing.

3. Time between Hydro readings. I heard over and over not to trust air-lock activity as a sign of fermentation and it's progress. My local gurus say to test the Hydro reading until it stops changing. Something like two identical readings spaced 3-4 days apart is a much beter indicator that things are done and you are actually reading the true Final Gravity.

4. Did you re-hydrate the yeast? Many say it is not an absolutely necessary step but I've not yet heard of someone having an issue because they did take that step...I figure it can't hurt...

Again, Masters of the Forum, please correct me if any of this is off. My knowledge is still book-knowledge compared to personal experience but all of that changes next monday when I brew #1!

Tweaker, sorry about your fallen porter! I hope no others explode on you!

-Tripod

 

[carnevoodoo]

OK thanks! My Porter just blew the fuk up GD! One bottle just popped in the middle, beer everywhere in closet.

I was just looking at the instructions provided with a true brew kit.

How long are you leaving your beer in primary?

 

[MN_Jay]

Muntons yeast will never be a part of my brew day again, sorry muntons but you had your chance and blew somewhere around 1.020.... It's happened to me and from your porter exploding, it sounds like it happened to you. For the extra $2, it's definitely worth upgrading to something with a little more quality like Notty or Safale.

 

[Tweaker]

I still cannot get a normal OG and I have tried every possible suggestion to resolve it. Since my goal is to get 5% ABV beer, I now add DME, sugar, or corn syrup until OG is .015 above that advertised in the kit.

Munton's yeast really blows goats. It is ONE of the reasons for my problems. I changed and now I get much better results on FG.

I have never taken a beer out of primary sooner than 10 days. I now have 6 carboys, and a cubic **** ton of brew stocked up, so I plan on doing primary for 3 weeks and maybe a secondary.

Temp corrections were never the problem. I may have been leaving too much bleach residue in carboys, and that hampered yeast effectiveness. Not sure on this.

Thourough wort mixing was likely a mistake on my part. I bought a drill operated mixer, so that is eliminated.

I am also going to re-hydrate my yeasts everytime now.

I just started working in a brewery (Starr Hill near Charlottesville, VA Starr Hill Brewery - Charlottesville, VA). The brewmaster offered to give me free ingredients especially yeast! This should help tremendously.

Thanks for your help, dudes!

 

[Tripod]

I just started working in a brewery (Starr Hill near Charlottesville, VA Starr Hill Brewery - Charlottesville, VA). The brewmaster offered to give me free ingredients especially yeast! This should help tremendously.

You lucky son-of-a.....I mean, good for you!

Seriously, I hope you get the SG's figured out to your liking and then post your findings and educate us all. Good Luck!!

-Tripod

 

[jay4e]

I never had a problem with muntons. I did however do a 3 week primary as well as giving a light swirl after the first week. Muntons just seems to be a slow fermenter to me. If your hitting your fg now though stick with what your using.

As for sg I'd suggest doing full boils if your not yet (turkey fryers are everywhere this time of year). And making sure you crush your grains well if your steeping. Steeping isn't going to make a huge effect on og but it will make some. Also forget the kits and just go off established recipies.