Secondary with IPA?

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BluegrassyBrewer

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So I'm going to be making an IPA sometime today and was just wondering what would be good to put in the secondary? I'm going to dry hop it in the secondary, but looking to be some extras in there too. I was thinking that maybe some cloves would go well in there, seeing as how it is almost the holiday season. Anyone got any ideas?
 
So I'm going to be making an IPA sometime today and was just wondering what would be good to put in the secondary? I'm going to dry hop it in the secondary, but looking to be some extras in there too. I was thinking that maybe some cloves would go well in there, seeing as how it is almost the holiday season. Anyone got any ideas?

What are you planning on using for your bittering hops?
 
I would let it sit in the primary at least 10-14 days. I let all mine go 3 weeks then keg. Also if you keg you can dry hop in there and skip the secondary.


Also it would be helpful if you posted your recipe.
 
I can't get my tastebuds around a holiday spiced IPA...eww

anyway, to answer your original question..yes, you would rack to a secondary to dry hop it...that is one of the few times I forsake leaving my beers in primary for 4 weeks...That or adding fruit...
 
Put .75 oz of Amarillo and 0.75 oz of Simcoe in the secondary and forget the spices. They will only screw up a good IPA, but that is just my humble opinion.
 
I can't get my tastebuds around a holiday spiced IPA...eww

anyway, to answer your original question..yes, you would rack to a secondary to dry hop it...that is one of the few times I forsake leaving my beers in primary for 4 weeks...That or adding fruit...
Why not just dry hop in the primary?
 
Why not just dry hop in the primary?

Good question...I don't know...I guess it is just traditionally done to dry hop in secondary....but until you asked me, I've never given any thought as to why...

It might be simply a holdback from the days of the belief that you get the beer off the yeast cake as soon as possible....

Who knows....I don't see why you couldn't...
 
By all means do what you like, it's your beer! You may be bette roff spicing up something with less hop character.

Than again, I'm a huge hop head so any foofoo spices in an IPA is just plain blasphemus to me. :D
 
Did some reading....

From BYO

What Is dry hopping?

The term dry hopping originated centuries ago with British brewers and was used to refer to adding hops to the cask shortly before it was shipped off to the customer. In fact, 1/2-ounce hop plugs were specifically developed by British hop producers to be a convenient way to add whole hops to a keg or cask. Nowadays, dry hopping refers to any hop addition after the wort has been cooled. These additions can be done in the primary fermenter, in the secondary or by adding hops directly to a keg. I have even heard of one homebrewer attempting to add one or two hop petals to each bottle of a bottle-conditioned batch! (It didn’t work though.)

When to dry hop

Once you’ve decided what hops you’re going to use, you need to decide when to add them. The choices are in the primary fermenter, in the secondary fermenter, or in the keg.

Dry hopping in the primary fermenter will work, and is favored by some brewers, but conventional wisdom teaches that the primary might not be optimal. The problem lies in the bubbling of the CO2 and the agitation of the wort during primary fermentation. This bubbling and agitation takes some of the hop aroma out of the beer just like boiling would. This, of course, may defeat the purpose of dry hopping, although some of the hop essence will subsist. If you choose to dry-hop in the primary fermenter, you may want to add more hops than you would for dry hopping in the secondary or keg.

The secondary fermenter is generally considered the best place for dry hopping for a couple of reasons. First, the beer has already mostly fermented so, as mentioned above, the alcohol and low pH helps to ward off any bacteria on the un-sanitized hops. Second, the vigorous CO2 activity of the primary is finished, so the aroma of the hops won’t be scrubbed out of the beer.

There is, however, one potential difficulty with dry hopping in the secondary. Many brewers use glass carboys with narrow necks as their secondary fermenters. Getting the hops into, and then back out of, the slender opening can be an exercise in frustration. This is especially true if you like to keep the hops in a bag, making it easy to separate them from the beer. My recommendation is to use a bucket with a large opening rather than a carboy, or to forget about putting the hops in a bag and just dump them in. You can then separate the hops from the beer when racking to your bottling bucket or keg.


Here's the whole article Brew Your Own: The How-To Homebrew Beer Magazine - Dry Hopping: Techniques -

Interesting tidbit...Pellet hops were originally created FOR DRY HOPPING...wow..
 
Ok but what if you dry hop after the beer is fermented? Say give it 3 weeks in the primary...then dry hop in the primary for a week then bottle. You would think 1 less transfer would mean less chance for infection or aeration or something to clean. Hum...
 
Ok but what if you dry hop after the beer is fermented? Say give it 3 weeks in the primary...then dry hop in the primary for a week then bottle. You would think 1 less transfer would mean less chance for infection or aeration or something to clean. Hum...

After reading the BYO article I was thinking the same thing...What you think makes perfect sense to me...The beer is still and clearing...

The only issue I would have is making sure the hop particles fall through to the trub before bottling time....Maybe Cold Crashing? Or whole hops in a hop bag?

OR dry hop after 7-10 days (take a hydro reading to see if fermentation is over) Then add hops for the remainder of the month..Surely 3 weeks would be enough to have them settle.
 
Thanks for all the input. I'm going to be using 2 oz. of Cascade for the dry hop. What I was planning on doing was leaving it in the primary for a week to a week and a half, then transferring to the secondary for a week or two, dry hopping it during that time. 3 oz. of Cent for continual hop during boiling, and then the 2 oz of Cascade for dry hop. Should come out with a nice bitterness and aroma. But I'm just trying now to find something that would complement an IPA to add to the hops in the secondary. I was maybe thinking again some spices, or many something citrusy? I have no idea how that would turn out, but that's the fun part about it all hah.
 
OR dry hop after 7-10 days (take a hydro reading to see if fermentation is over)
I'm pretty sure Jamil recommended this as his preferred dry-hopping method on one of his shows (I can't remember exactly, but probably the American IPA one). You add the hops just as fermentation is winding down, so the CO2 doesn't scrub the aroma.
 
Interesting tidbit...Pellet hops were originally created FOR DRY HOPPING...wow..

Looks like plug hops were originally created for dry hopping. I believe pellet hops were invented to prolong shelf life and minimize the room to store them. The extra utilization was a nice little bonus I think.

I usually dry hop in my primary nowadays. After about 3 weeks I'll dump my pellets in and seal her back up. Let the pellets do their thing, and give the carboy a little rock once in a while to help them settle out. I wouldn't worry about getting a few particles in when I bottle because they should fall out when chilling them. To avoid plugging up my dip tube in the keg, I put sanitized panty hose over the end of my siphon tube and catch anything before it makes it into the keg.
 
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