Buying grain in bulk helps considerably
bduane said:I wouldn't buy a kit for AG. There are too many variables that they can't account for in a premixed kit, and it doesn't really make it any easier.
Find a recipe and order everything from an online hbs. I just ordered my second batch from brewmasters warehouse and they are great, good prices and you can order grain in specific quantities and they will crush and mix it for you. I swear this isn't an ad even if it sounds like one.
I wouldn't buy a kit for AG. There are too many variables that they can't account for in a premixed kit, and it doesn't really make it any easier.
Find a recipe and order everything from an online hbs. I just ordered my second batch from brewmasters warehouse and they are great, good prices and you can order grain in specific quantities and they will crush and mix it for you. I swear this isn't an ad even if it sounds like one.
mfraier said:If you're in Howell you have MI brewing company right down the rd. They sell everything there less than what you pay online + shipping. 50lb bags of 2 row are $30. Drive over and check it out.....and get a pint or two in the pub while you're there.
If you're in Howell you have MI brewing company right down the rd. They sell everything there less than what you pay online + shipping. 50lb bags of 2 row are $30. Drive over and check it out.....and get a pint or two in the pub while you're there.
Biobrewer said:Bulk grain + bulk hops = huge saving. If you brew a few times a month, say 36 times per year, you are literally saving hundreds and hundreds of dollars by buying bulk hops and grains. I usually plan out 3-4 beer (or 2-3 big ones) right before I get a new sack of grain.
Also, for bulk hops, buy 1-2 lbs at a time and you'll save a huge amount of money. I invested in a vacuum sealer, and divy the hops up into 2 oz packs each time I get hops. I have used hops a year out like this with no change in flavor or aroma.
I do, however, try to use the grain within a month or two of opening the bulk bag, as it is not refrigerated. As long as it is kept cool and dry though, it should keep pretty well.
All grain is where it's at! Going with bulk also gives you an excuse to tell your better half you need to brew more
Bulk grain + bulk hops = huge saving. If you brew a few times a month, say 36 times per year, you are literally saving hundreds and hundreds of dollars by buying bulk hops and grains. I usually plan out 3-4 beer (or 2-3 big ones) right before I get a new sack of grain.
Also, for bulk hops, buy 1-2 lbs at a time and you'll save a huge amount of money. I invested in a vacuum sealer, and divy the hops up into 2 oz packs each time I get hops. I have used hops a year out like this with no change in flavor or aroma.
I do, however, try to use the grain within a month or two of opening the bulk bag, as it is not refrigerated. As long as it is kept cool and dry though, it should keep pretty well.
All grain is where it's at! Going with bulk also gives you an excuse to tell your better half you need to brew more
chuckjaxfl said:Consider partigyle brewing, if you're ready for it.
FWIW, my most sudden and noticeable increase in cost effectiveness came when I learned to handle yeast, not when I went to all-grain. My LHBS charges $10 per vial/pack. That's 30% of my total cost sometimes. The most cost-effective way I have found to brew so far is to brew a session beer, harvest the yeast, then partigyle a couple batches that also use that yeast.
I didn't "notice" real savings in all-grain until I also got my own mill and started buying many unmilled kits at once to exploit flat rate shipping. Now I'm buying in bags and the difference finally seems "big".
Were should i buy my grains? I put a recipe from john palmer together and came to 19.80 which i was ok then midwest charges 11.00 for shipping. $30 for a AG is silly.
Is it true you can get mutant strands ....
Is it true you can get mutant strands after about 10 uses. Yet, i also heard sierra nevada has been using the same stand since day one. And how do i start.
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