Safe to drill through side of Kenmore model # 25368892015

[kaelus]

Is it safe to drill through the side (looking at the left side, if it matters) of Kenmore model # 25368892015 ?
I can't seem to find diagrams or any info on if coolant lines run through the sides. If anybody has had experience with this model, I'd really appreciate hearing about it!

 

[Broken Crow]

Sounds like you have the DIY aptitude...You could do what I would do lacking diagrams; Carefully drill just through the skin and use a pick to probe around the inside and see if you have a clear path, or..to back up a bit: Is this for gas line? Is it in any way practical to drill through the door instead? ..I know some folk have done it that way, but then some have also drilled multiple 'exploratory' holes till they find a clearing.

 

[IslandLizard]

AFAIK, most (all?) refrigerators do not have refrigerant lines in their outer shell.

For proof, check there's a condensor coil either on the back, or under the hump, next to the compressor, with a fan.

Freezers do have condensor lines in their outer shell.
Then most (all?) chest freezers have evaporation lines in the inner wall.

IOW, you can drill through a [EDIT] refrigerator's side walls pretty much anywhere.

 

[Broken Crow]

BTW: Welcome to HBT!

 

[day_trippr]

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/system-parts-for-kenmore-25368892015.html

That unit uses a fan driven condenser and evaporator so there should not be anything in the side walls. The lines between should run straight up the back wall.

That said, always make a small hole through the liner from the inside where you intend to drill through, and poke a probe inside to find anything between the liner and outer shell, before drilling the final hole...

Cheers!

 

[IslandLizard]

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/system-parts-for-kenmore-25368892015.html

Thanks for linking to the diagrams!

That said, always make a small hole through the liner where you intend to drill through, and poke a probe inside to find anything between the liner and outer shell, before drilling the final hole...

That is the safest way, just in case, yes!

 

[kaelus]

Hey, thanks everyone! This hole in the side would be for the shank piece for the tap. The kegerator will be in a laundry room with the left side against the wall, and I want to set up the tap coming out of the wall on the other side, in the bar area of my basement. I'd put the shank hole through the door, but then we'd have to go into the laundry room to pour a beer. I appreciate the guidance--sounds like the side wall is probably clear of coolant lines, but I'll go at it carefully as suggested just in case.

 

[IslandLizard]

I want to set up the tap coming out of the wall on the other side

You'll need a mighty long shank for that! 12" perhaps?

Put some (AC type) foam insulation around the exposed part outside the fridge to keep it as cold as possible to prevent excessive foaming on your first pour.

Make sure no-one tries to jar or move the fridge at some point without disconnecting the faucet and such.

 

[kaelus]

I think I may be able to get away with 10", but might go with 12" just in case. There's not much to the laundry room wall but drywall and studs, but I've got some foam insulation to put around the section that'll be exposed due to the width of the stud.

 

[Broken Crow]

Hey, thanks everyone! This hole in the side would be for the shank piece for the tap. The kegerator will be in a laundry room with the left side against the wall, and I want to set up the tap coming out of the wall on the other side, in the bar area of my basement. I'd put the shank hole through the door, but then we'd have to go into the laundry room to pour a beer. I appreciate the guidance--sounds like the side wall is probably clear of coolant lines, but I'll go at it carefully as suggested just in case.

You might want to consider tempertures... Warm shanks lead to foaming, so it's always a good idea to have as much shank inside the refrigerated part as you can....I hope you don't have any nearby heating ducts or hot-water lines.
Just sayin'.

 

[Bassman2003]

What about going through the door? That is the safest and probably the thinest part.

 

[day_trippr]

^that^ would make hooking up a through-wall shank even more fun!

 

[IslandLizard]

Warm shanks lead to foaming, so it's always a good idea to have as much shank inside the refrigerated part as you can.

He could clamp a "cold sink" (a piece of aluminum or steel) on the inside part of the shank too, if he needs more heat conducting material on the inside.

And you're right, the essence is to keep that shank and faucet as cold as possible, and prevent them from warming up (too much) between pours.

Certainly with much of the shank being on the outside, it needs to be well insulated from prevailing ambient temps.

Or perhaps even easier (and better) just use shorter 3-5" shanks and wrap the shank and piece of beer tubing* that's in the wall with a thick layer of foam insulation. Much less mass to keep cold, or to chill when pouring.

My friend has 12 taps like that in his basement bar, through a (block) wall and short shanks with just long enough beer tubing on the outside to connect. He pulls the excess tubing back into the fridges.
There are no problems with foaming, even with a first pour of the day.

* Since you're building from scratch, use EVA Barrier beer tubing, for all its advantages.

 

[Bassman2003]

^that^ would make hooking up a through-wall shank even more fun!

That is how I have my fridge set up. Easy. Just a hole saw through, adda short bit of PVC pipe for stability around the shank and tighten the threaded washers. Are you saying it would be more trouble?

 

[day_trippr]

You actually have a rigid through-wall connection through the door of your fridge? Gonna have to show pictures of that.
But, yes, working through the relative approaches it sure seems it'd be more difficult running through the door than running out the non-hinged side wall - which doesn't seem difficult at all, really.

And then there's taking care of the result. Are you saying it's just as easy to manage a fridge where the door is rigidly shanked to a wall?

Cheers!

 

[Bassman2003]

Pictures are probably better than words. If you want no risk of hitting a coolant line and want maximum space for kegs, the door is a great option.

The door itself is not rigid, just two pieces of sheet metal. So I got some PVC pipe that the shank fits inside and cut it to the width so if fit inside the door. This gives you the rigidity for holding the shank and usage.

 

[day_trippr]

Door mounted faucets is not one of the OP's options being discussed...

Cheers!

 

[Bassman2003]

That is why I brought it up. When I drilled my fridge, I did not want to risk hitting anything, so the door was the safest option. I did not know different options are not allowed

 

[day_trippr]

I'm sorry, but did you actually read what the OP wants to do?

 

[Bassman2003]

Yes, he wants to avoid hitting refrigerant lines when he drills out the side of the fridge. What is the harm in suggesting a way that guarantees he will not hit a line? Why so rigid?

 

[day_trippr]

Ok, you definitely missed what's actually going on. That's ok though...

Cheers!

 

[mac_1103]

Yes, he wants to avoid hitting refrigerant lines when he drills out the side of the fridge.

He also wants the fridge up against one side of a wall and the taps on the other side of that wall. See post #7.

 

[Bassman2003]

Thanks. I read the thread early, came back to it and did not notice the part of not wanting a door install. Sorry.

 

[kaelus]

Thanks for all the info, y'all! I really appreciate it. If I could get the fridge into the bar area, I'd definitely go with the more straightforward door option, but in this circumstance I think the long shank through the side and the wall is the way to go. It'll be a month or more before I'll have a free weekend to get it set up, but when I do I'll post a couple pics.

 

[Broken Crow]

Thanks for all the info, y'all! I really appreciate it. If I could get the fridge into the bar area, I'd definitely go with the more straightforward door option, but in this circumstance I think the long shank through the side and the wall is the way to go. It'll be a month or more before I'll have a free weekend to get it set up, but when I do I'll post a couple pics.

I just had another thought; Will you still have back-end access to the fridge for cleaning? I'll be a real bugger to move once fastened to a wall. This may seem a bit out there, but have you considered building maybe a square box protruding from the side of the fridge to fit through a 'window' in the wall, so that if you need to move the fridge for any reason you could just slide it out? ...it would allow for better insulation around the shank.

 

[mac_1103]

This may seem a bit out there, but have you considered building maybe a square box protruding from the side of the fridge to fit through a 'window' in the wall, so that if you need to move the fridge for any reason you could just slide it out?

I don't think that's really out there at all. I have a feeling OP will ultimately come to regret his approach (maybe not tomorrow, but soon and for the rest of your life ). Now if you want to hear a really out there solution... if that's a non-load-bearing wall you could pretty easily cut a doorway the size of the fridge instead of a little window for the taps.

 

[Broken Crow]

I don't think that's really out there at all. I have a feeling OP will ultimately come to regret his approach (maybe not tomorrow, but soon and for the rest of your life ). Now if you want to hear a really out there solution... if that's a non-load-bearing wall you could pretty easily cut a doorway the size of the fridge instead of a little window for the taps.

That's brilliant! I've been long-term planning a lounge in my own basement and trying to figure out how to best incorporate taps without the protrusion of a kegerator owing to limited 'lounge-area'. I'm totally stealing that, thanks!

 

[mac_1103]

I'd love to do that in my own family room. Unfortunately the wall in question used to be an outside wall and I'd have to demo the brick that was walled in even if I could support the load somehow.