Running March/Chugger pumps overnight?

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drubes14

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Hi all,

I'm close to finishing up my hybrid HERMS system. I've installed a 120v 1000w heating element to help maintain temps during the mash, and have propane burners still to get the HLT, MT, and BK to the "macro" temp needed - be it in the 140s-150s or to boil for the BK.

To save on time, I've been thinking about just setting my PID/heating element the night before, and let the system heat up to strike temps. with only 1000w, it'll take several hours to get to temp, but if i'm tackling it overnight, i don't think it'll be a problem. I have a March 809-Polysulfone head and a Chugger CPPS-1 SS head. Both 120v, 60h.

Here's the question.. this method would require both of my pumps to be running for upwards of 6-8 hours at a time as the strike water and sparge water were recirculated to ensure heat distribution. Wondering if your standard brew pump can handle this? Is this just going to add to operating hours and detract from eventual lifetime performance of the pump? Or are there issues and risks with running continuously for several hours at a time?
 
Meh, open frame induction motors with internal cooling fans shouldn't have an issue with continuous operation.
Otoh, wear-out is a function of hours, and if you're burning them doing nothing productive then you're going to take a hit on the effective longevity.
I'd suggest not bothering to recirculate during your over-night pre-heating. There should be enough thermally induced movement to get in the ball park and then you can use your gas burners to dial in...

Cheers!
 
I would look one of those cheap tan pumps or some quick google searching gave me a bunch of results for 12v DC sous vide pumps in the $12 range. Cheap enough so, like Ivan Drogo says, if it dies, it dies. I am also thinking that you may be over-thinking here. Recirculation helps even out temperature gradients to ensure even heating; however, I wonder if over 4 to 6 hours, the temperature gradient will even itself out.

Or, aim to overshoot. Let's say you run a test, and you set your temperature for 140°, and you come up in the morning, give it a stir, and then it evens out at 135°. So next time, shoot for 145°.

Or aim to overshoot and use cold water to get down to strike temperature. So if your goal is 140°, set for 155°, stir to even out, then add in cold water.
 
Thanks! Great points all.

I think I'll need at least one pump running, as I heat my strike water in my mash tun and strike water in the HLT, but only have one heating coil in the HERMS/HLT tank. As a result, if I want to do electric preheating, I need to pick up heat for the MT strike water somehow.

I might stick to the tan ones... though Chugger just confirmed that their pumps are continuous duty.
 
I wouldn't be worried about running them that Long. However I'm somewhat paranoid about leaving my system running unattended that amount of time. What I do is have everything ready to go the night before and preheat my water to 180ish then *only* turn the power key off. My wife leaves for work about a hour before I wake up so I have her turn the key on the way out. When I wake up the first thing I do is mash in and check/adjust ph. Then I can leave the mash going as I shower make breakfast. I'm usually mashing by 8am and into the fermenters by 12-1 with all the chores outta the way
 
I had similar question which I emailed march with before i bought my pump, I got this response

"Further to your recent email, I can confirm that the March 809-PL-HS is manufactured in PPS (Polysulfone) which is rated at 120°c for continuous operation.


Unlike mechanically sealed pumps, a magnetic drive pump has no physical connection to the motor and shaft, thus avoiding any thermal transfer to the motor and its components.


With regards to warranty, as standard we offer 12 months. There is no rated hours applicable to this pump, it is seldom a pump that fails and more often the motor, by utilising the magnetic drive technology (which we pioneered in the late 50’s) we are able to ensure that the motor is; a) not overheated and b) not over loaded. If a dead heading situation occurs and too much torque is put on the pump shaft, the 2 magnets simply de-couple until such a time as the process upset is resolved and the magnets re-couple – much like a clutch. The 809 range has been used specifically for home brewing applications for some 30 years and is globally recognised as the crème de la crème of hobbyist pumps.


The March 809 is manufactured by our sister company March Manufacturing in the USA, in turn the connections are manufactured to ½” NPT. At this size, BSP and NPT have exactly the same pitch of 14 threads per inch, so we have never sought to modify as they are completely compatible.


The cord supplied with the pump is 3ft.


I am an experienced home brewer myself, if you wish to discuss the product any further with me – please feel free to contact me directly. We also have a range of pumps that we manufacture here in the UK that offer different performance characteristics, again if you would like me to specify a product that is tailored to your set up, please don’t hesitate to pick up the phone."


So looks like the march is rated for what you want, but drop them an email to clarify.
 
All of the pumps we make are continuous duty....the motors are rated (per the motor mfg) to last anywhere from 3-5yrs when running 24/7
The smaller motors, like the 809's, have a thermal overload built in tothe motor so if they overheat it will cut power until it cools down then it will restart again...hope that puts your mind at ease. :)
 
Is your HLT big enough for the total volume of water you brew with, mash and sparge? If so you could just heat your HLT and then pull off the correct amount to start your mash.
 
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